! 


1 


iv  ^ 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2014 


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I. 

AMERICAN  EXPLORERS  SERIES, 
jfowler'a  Journal. 


THE  JOURNAL 

OF 

COB  FOWLE 


NARRATING  AN  ADVENTURE 

FROM 

ARKANSAS  THROUGH  THE  INDIAN  TERRITORY, 
OKLAHOMA,  KANSAS,  COLORADO, 
AND  NEW  MEXICO, 

TO  THE 

SOURCES  OF  RIO  GRANDE  DEL  NORTE, 
1821-22 


EDITED,  WITH  NOTES 
BY 

ELLIOTT  COUES 

NEW  YORK 

FRANCIS  P.  HARPER 

1898 


Copyright,  i8q8, 
by 

FRANCIS  P.  HARPER 


EoMon  Xfmiteo 
to  950  Copies, 

mo...  3  OS* 


DEDICATED 

TO 

REUBEN  T.  DURRETT,  A.  M.,  LL.  D., 

NESTOR  OF  KENTUCKY  HISTORIANS 
AND 

PRESIDENT  OF  THE  FILSON  CLUB, 
ADMIRATION  OF  HIS  PERSONAL  CHARACTER  AND  IN 
REMEMBRANCE  OF  PLEASANT  HOURS  PASSED 
IN  HIS  HOSPITABLE  HOME. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Jacob  Fowler  is  an  unknown  author  whose  work 
has  never  before  been  heralded  beyond  the  private 
circles  of  his  friends,  relatives,  and  descendants.  The 
editor  of  his  Journal  has  therefore  a  man  as  well  as  a 
book  to  introduce  to  the  public.  Being  responsible 
for  the  appearance  of  the  latter  in  print,  he  will  pres- 
ently say  something  on  that  score.  But  first  let  us 
hear  from  Colonel  R.  T.  Durrett,  of  Louisville,  Ky., 
the  owner  of  the  manuscript  now  published,  who  will 
speak  for  its  author: 

Louisville,  Ky.,  Dec.  4,  1897. 
Dr.  Elliott  Coues,  Washington,  D.  C. 

I  have  your  letter,  My  Dear  Doctor,  in  which  you 
request  me  to  tell  what  I  may  know  about  the  Journal 
you  found  among  my  manuscripts  when  you  were  my 
guest  last  year,  and  which  you  have  determined  to 
include  in  your  admirable  series  of  Western  Ameri- 
cana.   I  am  sorry  to  have  to  say  that  I  do  not  know 

vii 


Vlll 


INTRODUCTION. 


much  of  this  manuscript  or  its  author.  The  little  I 
know,  however,  will  be  cheerfully  contributed  to  an 
undertaking  which  is  to  place  a  Kentucky  manuscript 
from  my  collection  among  the  publications  which, 
under  your  editorship,  have  added  so  much  to  our 
literature  of  discovery,  exploration,  and  adventure. 

The  author  of  this  Journal  is  Major  Jacob  Fowler. 
His  name  is  not  attached  to  the  Journal,  and 
does  not  appear  on  any  of  its  pages  in  such  a  way 
as  to  indicate  authorship.  Yet  it  is  well  understood 
among  his  numerous  descendants  now  living  in  Ken- 
tucky and  other  States  that  he  is  the  author.  I  ob- 
tained the  manuscript  some  years  ago  from  Mrs.  Ida 
Symmes  Coates,  daughter  of  the  late  Americus 
Symmes,  now  residing  at  her  country  seat  near  Louis- 
ville. Mrs.  Coates  is  a  great-granddaughter,  on  the 
maternal  side,  of  Jacob  Fowler.  The  manuscript  de- 
scended to  her  in  a  direct  line  from  her  mother, 
Frances  Scott,  who  was  a  granddaughter  of  Jacob 
Fowler,  and  who  had  obtained  it  in  the  same  way 
from  her  mother,  Abigail  Fowler,  the  only  daughter 
of  Jacob  Fowler.  The  manuscript  has  thus  come 
down  to  us  in  a  direct  line,  and  is  the  unquestionable 
work  of  Major  Jacob  Fowler. 

When  Mrs.  Coates  gave  me  this  manuscript  she 
remarked  that  although  her  great-grandsire  was  a 


INTRODUCTION. 


ix 


very  well  educated  man,  he  wrote  a  very  bad  hand, 
and  that  I  might  be  puzzled  now  and  then  in  getting 
at  his  meaning.  I  found  this  to  be  true,  and  would 
not  like  to  say  that  I  succeeded  in  interpreting  all  of 
his  modern  hieroglyphics.  When  I  placed  the  manu- 
script in  your  hands  I  felt  sure  that  Lewis  and  Clark, 
Pike,  and  Henry  and  Thompson,  as  well  as  other 
explorers,  had  made  you  so  familiar  with  the  country 
gone  over  by  Major  Fowler,  that  you  could  with 
comparative  ease  master  its  chirographic  difficulties. 
In  this  I  was  right;  but  I  do  remember  how,  with 
your  constantly  replenished  pipe,  you  sat  in  my 
library,  and  smoked  and  puzzled  over  this  manuscript. 
A  distinguished  host  once  assured  his  guest  that  the 
more  raw  turnips  he  ate,  the  more  water  he  would 
drink,  and  that  the  more  water  he  drank,  the  more 
turnips  he  would  eat.  With  a  touch  of  similarity, 
you  smoked  and  read,  and  read  and  smoked,  with 
manifest  indications  of  successful  or  unsuccessful  in- 
terpretations of  the  text,  as  your  puffs  were  rapid  or 
slow.  It  might  be  hard  to  say  whether  you  smoked 
most  or  read  most,  but  you  finally  mastered  the 
manuscript;  and  whether  you  did  so  by  smoking  out 
the  uninterpretable  hieroglyphics,  or  got  rid  of  them 
by  other  means,  does  not  matter.  While  a  cloud  of 
smoke  may  not  seem  to  be  the  best  means  of  clearing 
up  the  obscurity  of  a  manuscript,  it  is  the  known  re- 


X 


INTRODUCTION. 


suit  here  considered,  if  not  the  philosophy  of  its 
action. 

Pioneers  by  the  name  of  Fowler  were  early  in 
Kentucky,  and  some  of  them  were  the  owners  of  large 
bodies  of  land.  In  1783,  Alexander  Fowler  entered 
10,000  acres  on  the  Little  Kentucky  river;  and  in 
1784,  John  Fowler,  who  was  the  first  member  of  Con- 
gress from  Ashland  District,  located  1536  acres  on 
Brush  creek  and  on  the  dividing  ridge  between  Pit- 
man's creek  and  Robertson's  run.  I  do  not  know 
whether  Jacob  Fowler  was  of  the  family  of  these 
Fowlers,  but  he  was  certainly  akin  to  them  in  so  far 
as  the  love  and  ownership  of  lands  were  concerned. 
Besides  other  possessions,  he  owned  2000  acres  of  the 
site  of  the  present  city  of  Covington,  Kenton  Co.,  Ky. 
He  was  one  of  the  pioneers  of  what  afterward  became 
the  county  of  Kenton,  before  the  city  of  Covington 
was  incorporated.  A  census  of  the  male  inhabitants 
of  this  locality  shows  him  to  have  been  residing  here 
in  1 8 10,  with  his  sons  Edward  and  Benjamin.  Had 
he  been  permitted  to  retain  these  Covington  lands,  he 
might  have  become  a  multi-millionaire.  His  kind 
heart,  however,  led  him  to  become  the  indorser  of 
those  who  made  a  clean  sweep  of  his  fine  estate.  A 
large  double  brick  dwelling  house,  handsomely  fur- 
nished, in  the  midst  of  ample  grounds,  planted  with 
trees  and  shrubbery,  flowers  and  blue-grass,  went 


INTRODUCTION. 


xi 


with  his  lands  to  pay  the  debts  of  others.  Had  he 
written  his  name  as  indorser  as  illegibly  as  he  wrote 
the  names  of  others  in  his  Journal,  there  might  have 
been  some  ground  for  what  lawyers  call  the  plea 
of  non  est  factum,  to  clear  him  of  liability.  But  such 
was  not  the  case,  and  his  security  for  others  swept 
away  his  large  estate. 

Major  Fowler  was  born  in  New  York,  in  1765,  and 
came  to  Kentucky  in  early  life,  a  fine  specimen  of 
physical  manhood,  fully  equipped  for  the  office  and 
duties  of  a  surveyor.  His  surveying  instruments 
were  the  best  of  their  day,  and  elicited  no  little  envy 
from  those  who  used  the  common  Jacob's  staff  and 
compass,  and  chain  of  the  times.  He  had  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  an  accomplished  surveyor,  and  did  much 
in  this  line  for  the  United  States  government.  His 
surveying  extended  to  the  great  plains  and  mountains 
of  the  far  West,  before  civilization  had  reached  these 
distant  wilds.  He  was  there  when  wild  animals  and 
wilder  savages  were  the  only  tenants  of  the  wilderness. 

Major  Fowler  married  the  widow  Esther  Sanders, 
nee  de  Vie,  of  Newport,  Ky.  She  was  of  French 
descent,  and  a  lady  of  great  beauty  and  accomplish- 
ments. She  made  his  home  one  of  happiness  and 
hospitality.  She  sometimes  accompanied  him  on  his 
surveying  expeditions  and  bore  domestic  charms  to 
the  tent  in  which  they  lived,  as  she  did  to  the  palatial 


Xll 


INTRODUCTION. 


mansion  at  home.  She  was  a  woman  of  fine  business 
capacity,  who,  when  her  husband  was  not  at  home, 
attended  to  his  affairs,  and  especially  to  his  farm  in 
the  suburbs  of  Covington.  Here  fine  stock  and 
abundant  crops  owed  much  to  her  constant  care  and 
supervision.  The  grapes  that  grew  on  the  place  were 
made  into  wine  and  the  apples  into  cider,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  knowledge  she  had  inherited  from  her 
French  ancestors.  Her  great-grandchildren  of  to- 
day tell  of  the  life  of  the  camp,  when  she  was  with  her 
husband  in  his  surveying  expeditions.  The  tent  floor 
was  nicely  carpeted;  a  comfortable  bed  invited  repose 
after  the  toil  of  the  day;  dainty  china,  bright  cut 
glass,  and  shining  silverware,  handsome  enough  to 
be  preserved  as  family  heirlooms  by  their  descendants, 
were  used  on  the  camp  table.  It  was  something  of 
Parisian  life  in  the  dreary  wilderness. 

Major  Fowler  died  in  Covington  in  the  year  1850. 
His  life  as  a  surveyor  and  explorer  in  the  West  sub- 
jected him  to  many  hardships,  but  a  constitution 
naturally  vigorous  was  preserved  with  care  until  he 
reached  his  eighty-sixth  year.  He  has  numerous  de- 
scendants in  Kentucky,  Ohio,  and  other  States,  some 
of  whom  occupy  high  social  positions.  Mrs.  Coates, 
to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  this  manuscript  Journal, 
is,  in  the  paternal  line,  the  granddaughter  of  Captain 
John  Cleve  Symmes,  author  of  the  "  Theory  of  Con- 


INTRODUCTION. 


xiii 


centric  Spheres,"  i2mo,  Cincinnati,  1826,  and  great- 
grandniece  of  Hon.  John  Cleve  Symmes,  a  member 
of  Congress  from  New  Jersey,  who  purchased  of  the 
United  States  government  that  vast  body  of  land 
in  the  State  of  Ohio,  lying  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Ohio  river  between  the  two  Miamis.  With  the 
knowledge  and  consent  of  her  father,  the  late 
Americus  Symmes,  she  gave  me  the  manuscript  in 
the  belief  that  I  would  make  some  good  use  of  it. 
After  thinking  for  a  time  that  I  would  place  it  among 
the  Filson  Club  Publications,  I  changed  my  mind  and 
turned  it  over  to  you  to  be  published.  I  think  this 
is  the  best  use  I  could  have  made  of  the  manuscript, 
and  I  shall  now  wait  with  impatience  until  I  see  your 
work  published  in  the  best  style  of  Francis  P.  Harper, 
and  read  your  ample  notes  and  comments,  which  I 
doubt  not  will  be  after  the  inimitable  manner  of  your 
Lewis  and  Clark,  your  Pike,  and  your  Henry  and 
Thompson. 

Truly, 

R.  T.  DURRETT. 

The  MS.  which  I  received  from  Colonel  Durrett  is 
entitled:  "  memorandom  of  the  voige  by  land  from 
fort  Smith  to  the  Rockey  mountains  " — and  is  the 
most  like  those  mountains  of  any  I  have  ever  under- 
taken to  overcome.    My  eminent  friend  does  not 


xiv 


INTRODUCTION. 


exaggerate  the  difficulty  of  deciphering  the  charac- 
ters which  he  aptly  styles  "  hieroglyphics/'  and  which 
have  hitherto  kept  this  writing  a  sealed  book.  The 
text  begins  verso  of  the  title,  and  ostensibly  runs  pp. 
i  —264,  but  pagination  is  once  skipped  and  twice 
duplicated.  The  folios  may  be  called  of  square  note- 
paper  size,  nearly  that  of  a  small  quarto  book — 
8  X  inches  for  pp.  1— 180,  but  larger,  nearly  9X7, 
for  the  rest.  The  ragged  edges  make  exact  meas- 
urements impracticable,  Father  Time's  paper-mill  hav- 
ing turned  out  a  deckel-edged  product,  so  fashionable 
nowadays.  The  sheets,  of  four  pages  or  two  folios 
each,  are  gathered  in  16-page  packets,  the  outsides  of 
which  are  now  much  soiled — indeed,  the  rough,  un- 
ruled surfaces  are  all  darkened  with  the  dust  of  three- 
quarters  of  a  century,  and  the  ink  is  faded  to  match 
the  same  subdued  monotone,  except  in  places  where 
it  recedes  to  the  vanishing  point.  The  writing  is 
upon  both  sides  of  the  paper;  and  the  whole  effect, 
if  it  could  be  facsimiled,  would  be  a  bibliomaniac's 
dream  of  delight. 

At  first  sight,  this  manuscript  appears  illegible;  no 
one  can  read  it  off-hand.  Nevertheless,  this  writing 
proves  readable  upon  sufficient  study  of  the  alpha- 
betic characters  which  Fowler  invented  to  suit  him- 
self, like  that  classic  old  Theban  Cadmus,  or  his 
modern  imitator,  Cherokee  Sequoiah.    I  managed  to 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


master  it  under  the  agreeable  circumstances  of  my 
visit  to  Louisville,  to  which  my  host  on  that  occasion 
has  so  pleasantly  alluded  in  the  letter  printed  above; 
and  after  that  my  secretary  also  proved  herself  equal 
to  the  task  when  she  took  the  matter  in  hand  to  copy 
for  the  press.  There  are  hardly  a  dozen  words  in 
which  doubt  attaches  to  a  single  letter,  and  probably 
not  half  as  many  have  proven  altogether  illegible. 

Fowler  wrote  a  large  sprawling  hand,  as  may  be 
judged  by  the  fact  that  only  174  of  these  small  open 
pages  are  required  to  print  his  264  folios,  with  my 
176  notes.  He  commonly  conforms  to  the  require- 
ments of  dotted  i  and  crossed  t,  but  otherwise  strikes 
out  for  himself  in  the  formation  of  letters.  His  most 
original  invention  is  an  r  which  would  puzzle  CEdipus, 
as  it  is  always  a  careful  n;  most  of  his  short-stroke  char- 
acters look  alike  in  their  resemblance  to  bends  of  the 
Arkansaw  river  on  a  map,  and  his  long  strokes  seem 
as  if  they  had  been  struck  by  lightning.  The  incessant 
capitals  are  flourished  elaborately,  and  not  confined  to 
initial  letters.  Fowler  is  also  fond  of  capping  little 
words,  as  if  he  thought  they  needed  such  help  to  hold 
up  their  heads  with  big  ones,  and  equally  apt  to  begin 
proper  names,  sentences,  and  paragraphs  with  lower- 
case letters.  This  style  of  composition  appears  on 
the  printed  page,  which  faithfully  imitates  every 
peculiarity  of  the  original  which  can  be  set  with  an 


xvi 


INTRODUCTION. 


ordinary  font  of  type.  The  syntax  is  the  sort  which 
has  been  happily  called  "  dash  dialect  " — Fowler  has 
no  other  punctuation  than  the  dash,  excepting  a 
sporadic  period  here  and  there,  usually  misplaced,  and 
an  occasional  stab  at  the  paper  which  is  neither  one 
thing  nor  another,  and  may  therefore  be  overlooked. 
His  spelling  speaks  so  well  for  itself  in  print  that  little 
need  be  said  on  that  score.  Its  entire  originality,  its 
effusive  spontaneity,  its  infinite  variety,  will  charm 
the  reader  while  it  puzzles  him,  and  make  the 
modern  manufacturer  of  Dialect  despair  of  his  most 
ingenious  craft.  Aside  from  sheer  slips  of  the  pen, 
by  which  Fowler  often  misses  letters,  as  in  writing 
"campe,"  "  caped,"  "capped,"  or  "  capted "  for 
camped,  there  is  a  particular  point  to  which  I  may  call 
attention  as  the  most  characteristic — in  fact,  the  diag- 
nostic— feature  of  his  composition.  It  is  that  habitual 
omission  of  final  y  which  makes  the  definite  article 
do  duty  for  the  third  personal  pronoun  nominative; 
and  when  this  is  followed  by  a  misspelled  verb  simu- 
lating a  noun,  some  curious  locutions  result.  Thus, 
"  the  Road  "  stands  for  they  rode;  "  the  Ware,"  for 
they  zvere;  "  the  Cold,"  for  they  could;  "  the  Head," 
for  they  had;  "  the  Maid,"  for  they  made — and  so  on, 
to  the  end  of  the  book. 

But  it  is  needless  to  pursue  this  alluring  theme;  the 
reader  may  turn  to  the  text  which  follows  this  feeble 


INTRODUCTION. 


xvii 


preface  so  strenuously,  and  see  for  himself  with  what 
a  tour  de  force  our  ingenious  author  managed  to  evade 
what  we  now  call  good  grammar.  I  have  found 
more  than  one  reason  for  transferring  this  curious 
copy  to  type  with  the  utmost  verbality,  literality,  and 
punctuality  of  which  the  compositor  is  capable.  In 
the  first  place,  it  tickled  my  fancy  so  that  I  wished 
others  to  enjoy  the  same  sensation — for  is  it  not  said 
that  our  joys  are  doubled  by  sharing  them,  as  our 
sorrows  are  halved  by  the  same  process?  Again,  to 
prolong  these  pleasantries,  I  may  say  that  I  thought 
this  would  be  a  good  way  to  show  that  awesome 
deference  which  I  ought  to  feel  for  certain  captious 
critics  of  former  works  with  which  my  name  is  asso- 
ciated, whose  green-eyed  strabismus  has  seen  me  in 
the  light  of  entirely  too  good  an  editor — that  is  to  say, 
who  have  complimented  me  by  their  censure  for  mak- 
ing my  authors  too  intelligible,  too  attractive,  and 
altogether  too  readable,  by  the  way  I  dressed  them  for 
the  press. 

So  I  determined  to  submit  the  pure  text  of  Fowler's 
Journal  to  the  discernment  of  competent  critics  of 
literary  wares,  as  well  as  to  the  lack  of  that  quality  in 
fussy  fault-finders,  and  let  everybody  see  how  some 
manuscript  looks  when  it  is  printed  just  as  it  is  writ- 
ten. I  do  not  vaunt  this  specimen  as  unique  in  any 
respect  except  the  handwriting,  a  sample  of  which  is 


XV111 


INTRODUCTION. 


reproduced.  The  article  is  much  like  others  of  Fow- 
ler's times  and  circumstances;  it  is  only  a  little  off  the 
average  syntax  and  orthography  of  that  period,  with 
a  few  more  capitals  and  dashes  than  were  then  usual. 
I  know  authors  of  our  own  day  whose  copy  would 
turn  out  a  good  deal  like  Fowler's  if  the  printer  did 
not  fix  it  up  for  them.  They  are  mostly  the  ones 
who  damn  instead  of  blessing  the  artists  of  the  art 
preservative  of  arts.  Few  women,  for  example,  can 
spell  quite  like  the  dictionaries;  fewer  still  can 
punctuate  properly;  and  fewest  of  all  persons  of 
either  sex  in  the  world  are  those  authors,  even  among 
professional  literarians,  who  would  like  or  could 
afford  to  see  themselves  set  up  in  print  exactly  as  they 
write  themselves  down.  There  is  said  to  be  a  day 
coming  when  the  secrets  of  all  hearts  shall  be  re- 
vealed, the  wicked  shall  tremble,  and  they  shall  say  to 
the  mountains,  "  fall  on  us  " — or  words  to  that  effect. 
I  cite  the  passage  from  early  memory,  not  having  the 
author  in  hand,  and  have  not  verified  ihe  quotation; 
but  I  will  risk  anything  of  that  sort,  provided  the  day 
never  comes  when  the  secrets  of  the  printing  office 
shall  be  revealed.  I  am  at  peace  with  my  God,  my 
neighbor,  and  myself;  but — I  am  an  author. 

If  we  turn  from  the  form  to  the  substance  of 
Fowler's  Journal,  and  ask  to  see  the  bill  of  lading, 


INTRODUCTION. 


xix 


curious  to  know  what  useful  or  valuable  information 
is  contained  in  so  singular  a  vehicle  of  conveyance,  it 
may  be  confidently  said  that  this  "  prairie  schooner  " 
is  well  freighted  for  a  "  voige  "  on  the  highway  of 
Americana;  for  the  cargo  is  a  novel  and  notable  con- 
tribution to  our  knowledge  of  early  commercial  ven- 
ture and  pioneering  adventure  in  the  Great  West.  It 
is  simply  a  story  of  the  trader  and  trapper,  unsup- 
ported by  the  soldier,  unimpeded  by  the  priest,  and  in 
no  danger  from  the  politician.  The  scene  is  set  in 
the  wilderness;  the  time  is  when  pack-animals  are 
driven  across  the  stage,  before  the  first  wheels  rolled 
over  the  plains  from  the  States  to  Santa  Fe;  and  the 
actors  have  very  real  parts  to  perform. 

From  the  respective  dates  of  Pursley,  of  Lalande, 
and  of  Pike,  whose  several  travels  were  among  the 
first  if  not  the  earliest  overland  from  the  United 
States  to  the  Spanish  settlements,  on  the  part  of 
American  citizens — from  the  opening  years  of  the 
century  to  the  1821—22  of  Fowler — various  parties 
were  on  the  Arkansaw  in  what  are  now  Kansas  and 
Colorado.  But  the  records  of  where  they  went  or 
what  they  did?  That  is  the  question.  Ezekiel  Wil- 
liams, James  Workman,  Samuel  Spencer,  sole  and 
shadowy  survivors  of  Coyner's  "  Lost  Trappers,"  are 
only  uneasy  spirits  flitting  from  the  Missouri  to 
Mexico  and  California  in  an  apocryphal  book,  never 


XX 


INTRODUCTION. 


materializing  out  of  fable-land  into  historical  environ- 
ment. Wherever  other  American  trappers  or  traders 
may  have  gone  on  the  Arkansaw  or  even  the  Rio 
Grande  in  those  days,  and  whatever  they  may  have 
done,  Fowler  was  first  to  forge  another  sound  link  in 
the  chain  which  already  reached  from  Pike  to  Long. 
The  latter's  justly  celebrated  expedition  came  down 
the  Arkansaw  and  the  Canadian  in  1820.  Pike 
ascended  the  main  river  from  its  great  bend  to  its 
sources  in  1806,  the  same  year  that  his  lieutenant, 
Wilkinson,  descended  this  stream  from  the  point 
where  he  parted  from  his  captain.  For  the  lower 
reaches  of  the  river  we  have  Thomas  Nuttall's  Journal 
of  Travels  into  the  Arkansa  Territory,  during  the 
year  1819,  and  various  other  accounts.  But  I  know 
of  no  record,  earlier  in  date  than  Fowler's,  of  continu- 
ous ascent  of  the  river  from  Fort  Smith  to  the  present 
position  of  Pueblo  in  Colorado.  He  meandered  the 
whole  course  of  the  Arkansaw  between  the  points 
named,  except  his  cut-off  of  a  small  portion  by  the 
Verdigris  trail.  One  of  his  men,  Lewis  Dawson,  who 
was  killed  by  a  grizzly  bear  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pur- 
gatory— and  who,  let  us  hope,  left  that  place  for 
happier  hunting-grounds — may  not  have  been  the 
first  white  American  buried  in  Colorado  soil;  but  the 
record  of  a  prior  funeral  would  be  far  to  seek. 
Whose  was  the  first  habitable  and  inhabited  house  on 


INTRODUCTION. 


xxi 


the  spot  where  Pueblo  now  stands?  Fowler's,  prob- 
ably; for  Pike's  stockade  was  hardly  a  house,  and  Jim 
Beckwourth  came  twenty  years  after  Fowler.  The 
Taos  Trail  from  Santa  Fe  through  the  Sangre  de 
Cristo  Pass  to  the  Arkansaw  at  Pueblo  was  well 
known  to  the  Spaniards  when  Fowler's  party  traversed 
it  in  the  opposite  direction;  but  we  have  no  American 
itinerary  of  that  passage  at  an  earlier  date  than  his. 
When  Fowler  ascended  the  Rio  Grande  to  Hot 
Spring  creek  in  the  San  Juan  range,  he  followed  a 
Spanish  road ;  but  never  before  had  an  American  ex- 
pedition been  so  near  the  sources  of  that  great  river 
Del  Norte,  and  not  till  many  years  afterward  did  any 
such  prolong  Fowler's  traces  upward.  The  greater 
part  of  Fowler's  homeward  journey  from  Taos  to 
Fort  Osage  will  doubtless  prove  as  novel  to  his 
readers  as  it  was  unexpected  by  his  editor.  South  of 
the  Arkansaw,  his  trail  was  neither  by  the  way  he  had 
gone  before,  nor  by  either  of  those  roads  which  were 
soon  be  established  and  become  well  known;  for 
he  came  neither  by  the  Cimarron  nor  the  Raton  route, 
but  took  a  straighter  course  than  either,  between  the 
two,  over  Chico  Rico  Mesa  and  thence  along  Two 
Butte  creek  to  the  Arkansaw  on  the  Kansan-Colo- 
radan  border.  Again,  when  Fowler  left  the  Arkan- 
saw to  strike  across  Kansas,  he  did  not  take  up  the 
direct  route  which  caravans  were  about  to  blaze  as 


xxii 


INTRODUCTION. 


the  Santa  Fe  Trail  from  Missouri  through  Council. 
Grove  to  Great  Bend;  but  went  a  roundabout  way, 
looping  far  south  to  heads  of  the  Whitewater  and 
Verdigris  rivers  before  he  crossed  the  Neosho  to 
make  for  the  Missouri  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas. 

This  bare  outline  of  the  way  Fowler  went  in  twice 
crossing  the  Plains,  to  and  from  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, suffices  to  show  that,  taken  as  a  whole,  it  was 
not  only  the  first  but  also  the  last  such  itinerary 
of  which  we  have  any  knowledge ;  for  if  this  route  has 
since  been  retraversed  in  its  entirety,  time  has  ob- 
literated all  sign  of  such  an  adventure. 

Another  point  is  to  be  scored  in  connection  with 
Fowler's  unique  performance.  The  date  is  a  critical 
one  in  the  history  of  the  whole  subject.  That  elusive 
"  Red  river  "  which  Pike  sought  in  vain  in  1806  was 
only  the  year  before  Fowler  found  by  Long  to  be  the 
Canadian  fork  of  the  Arkansaw,  instead  of  that  sepa- 
rate tributary  of  the  Mississippi  which  Long  imagined 
he  was  descending  till  he  reached  its  confluence  with 
the  same  stream  which  the  other  detachment  of  his 
party  followed  down.  Just  at  the  time  when  Long 
had  finished  his  exploration,  and  Fowler  was  leading 
his  people  home  from  their  wide  wandering,  the  Santa 
Fe  trade  was  taking  definite  shape.  Like  every 
other  such  enterprise,  this  one  went  through  its  tenta- 
tive stages  of  hesitancy  and  disconcert,  before  its  final 


INTRODUCTION. 


xxiii 


organization  as  a  regular  industry;  and  if  any  year 
can  be  named  as  that  of  complete  equipment  for  the 
business,  it  is  that  of  1822.  Fowler  was  thus  a  factor 
in  the  beginnings  of  a  commerce  which  grew  by  what 
it  fed  upon  to  the  immense  proportions  it  had  ac- 
quired when  it  was  checked  by  the  troubles  of  1846. 

Whatever  be  deemed  the  merit  or  demerit  of 
Fowler's  work  as  a  whole,  viewed  in  the  light  of  a 
contribution  to  the  history  of  Western  adventure  in 
connection  with  the  fur  trade,  I  can  attest  the  coher- 
ency and  consequence  of  the  narrative  now  before  us. 
The  author  tells  a  plain,  straightforward  story,  and 
never  fails  to  make  it  intelligible.  He  never  loses  the 
thread  of  his  discourse,  never  tangles  it  into  an  irrele- 
vant skein,  and  holds  himself  well  in  hand  through  all 
the  asperities  he  experienced.  He  is  a  reasonable 
sort  of  a  writer,  if  not  a  very  ready  one.  I  have  had 
little  trouble  in  trailing  him  from  start  to  finish,  for 
all  that  compass-points  uncorrected  for  magnetic 
variation,  and  distances  chained  only  in  the  sensa- 
tions of  a  tired  traveler,  are  not  among  the  "  con- 
stants of  nature" — especially  in  the  mountains;  and 
I  am  satisfied  that  his  route  is  laid  down  correctly  in 
my  notes.  The  sign  is  a  little  dim  here  and  there,  in 
some  of  the  cross-country  laps,  but  we  never  lose  it. 
Fowler  had  the  good  eye  for  topography  to  be  ex- 
pected of  a  professional  surveyor,  and  I  only  wish  that 


xxiv 


INTRODUCTION. 


some  other  persons  whose  peregrinations  I  have  had 
occasion  to  follow  had  exercised  powers  of  observa- 
tion equal  to  those  which  Fowler  displayed  under 
arduous  exigencies  of  trade  and  travel. 

Thus  far  by  way  of  introducing  to  the  public  the 
hitherto  unknown  author  of  a  new  contribution  to 
Americana,  which  I  hope  may  find  that  favor  which 
I  believe  it  deserves. 

The  task  of  copying  Fowler's  Journal  v.  L  p.  was 
intrusted  to  an  expert,  Mrs.  Mary  B.  Anderson,  to 
whom  acknowledgments  are  due  for  the  result.  The 
copy  was  made  in  my  absence  from  home  last  sum- 
mer, during  which  the  lady  was  left  entirely  to  her 
own  resources  in  making  out  the  manuscript;  and 
subsequent  critical  comparison  of  the  transcription 
with  the  original  served  mainly  to  show  its  beauty  as 
well  as  accuracy.  The  Index  is  also  her  careful 
handiwork. 

E.  C. 

1726  N  Street,  Washington,  D.  C, 
January  /,  i8q8. 


MEMORANDOM  OF  THE  VOIGE  BY 
LAND  FROM  FORT  SMITH  TO 
THE  ROCKEY  MOUNTAINS. 


thorsday  6th  Sept  1821 
We  Set  out  from  fort  Smith 1  on  the  arkensaw  and 
Crossing  that  River  pased  threw  a  bottom  of  Rich 

1  Present  name  of  the  town  which  has  grown  up  on  the  site  of 
the  original  military  post,  in  Sebastian  Co.,  Ark.,  about  5  m.  S. 
W.  of  Van  Buren,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Arkansaw  river,  at  the 
mouth  of  Poteau  river,  immediately  on  the  W.  border  of  the 
State,  where  the  river  passes  from  the  Indian  Territory  into 
Arkansas;  lat.  350  22'  N.,  long.  94°  28'  W.;  pop.  in  1890,  11,311. 
The  original  name  of  the  then  important  frontier  locality  was 
Belle  Pointe.  "  The  site  of  Fort  Smith  was  selected  by 
Major  Long,  in  the  fall  of  1817,  and  called  Belle  Point  in  allusion 
to  its  peculiar  beauty.  It  occupies  an  elevated  point  of  land, 
immediately  below  the  junction  of  the  Arkansa  and  the  Poteau, 
a  small  tributary  from  the  southwest.  Agreeably  to  the  orders 
of  General  Smith,  then  commanding  the  9th  military  depart- 
ment, a  plan  of  the  proposed  work  was  submitted  to  Major 
Bradford,  at  that  time,  and  since  commandant  at  the  post,  under 
whose  superintendence  the  works  have  been  in  part  completed  " 
in  Sept.,  1820:  Long's  Exp.  ii,  1823,  p.  260,  where  description  of  the 
place  follows. 

From  this  starting-point  our  author  proceeds  on  the  direct  road 
to  the  Neosho  river,  vicinity  of  present  Fort  Gibson,  Ind.  Terr. 


2 


ILLINOIS  RIVER— SALT  WORKS. 


Land  Well  timbered  and  much  Kaine  2 — thence  over 
Low  Ridges  the  land  poor  and  in  some  places  Rockey 
— at  30  miles  crosed  the  tallecaw3  a  Crick  about  150 
feet  Wid  Large  bottoms  on  bothe  Sides  and  at  ten 
miles  farther  Crosed  the  Illinios 4  River  about  80  yds 
Wide  and  about  one  mile  farther  Stoped  for  the  night 
at  Beens5  Salt  Workes — this  is  the  Second  night 
Since  We  left  the  fort — the  the  Workes  one  Small 
Well  With  a  few  kittles  about  55  gallons  of  Watter 
make  a  bushil  of  Salt  and  the  Well  afords  Watter  to 
boil  the  kittles  about  three  days  in  the  Weake  Been 
and  Sanders  Has  permission  of  the  govern  [govern- 
ment] to  Worke  the  Salt  Spring — the  Sell  the  Salt 
at  one  dollar  per  Bushil — from  Heare  We  pased  over 

2  The  common  cane,  Arundinarza  macrosftermay  which  forms 
extensive  brakes. 

3  Tahlequah  or  Talequah,  one  of  several  small  tributaries  of  the 
Arkansaw  from  the  N.,  below  the  Illinois  river;  on  which  latter 
is  the  town  of  Tahlequah,  capital  of  the  Cherokee  Nation,  Indian 
Terr.,  about  45  m.  N.  W.  of  Fort  Smith. 

4  Illinois  river,  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Arkansaw  from  the 
N.  between  Fort  Smith  and  Fort  Gibson:  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895, 
p.  558,  and  add:  "The  Illinois  is  called  by  the  Osages,  Eng- 
wah-con-dah  or  Medicine-stone  creek,"  Long,  ii,  1823,  p.  255. 
Fowler  crosses  the  Illinois  some  6  or  8  m.  from  its  confluence 
with  the  Arkansaw. 

5  Bean's  or  Bean  and  Saunders'  salt  works  were  begun  in  the 
spring  of  1820  about  a  mile  up  a  small  creek  which  flows  into  the 
Illinois  at  or  near  the  place  where  Fowler  crosses  the  latter,  some 
6  m.  from  the  Arkansaw;  description  in  Long,  ii,  1823,  p.  254. 


NEOSHO  AND  VERDIGRIS  RIVERS. 


3 


Some  High  poor  Hills  Some  valleys  and  Some 
pirarie  lands  about  twenty  miles  to  a  large  bottom 
Well  Covered  in  parts  With  Caine  and  Well  timbered 
— threw  Which  We  pased  about  Eight  miles  to 
grand  River  or  Six  bull.6  this  is  fine  bold  Streem  of 
Clear  Watter  about  150  yd  Wide  Which  We  forded 
but  not  Without  Some  doupts — the  Watter  Runing 
With  great  force — about  one  mile  above  the  mouth  of 
this  River  is  the  mouth  of  the  virdegree  7  a  River  of 
about  one  Hundred  yds  Wide  deep  and  muddy  at  the 
mouth  and  up  it  to  the  Rapids  about  four  miles 
Wheare  there  is  a  trading  House,  but  we  Stoped  at 
the  trading  Hous  of  Conl  Hugh  glann  8  about  mile 

6  The  Neosho,  for  which  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  395,397-401, 
etc.  "  The  Neosho,  or  Grand  river,  better  known  to  the  hunters 
by  the  singular  designation  of  the  Six  Bulls"  Long,  ii,  1823,  p. 
253.  This  is  a  name  which  I  missed  in  editing  Pike.  On  the 
left  bank  of  the  Neosho,  near  its  mouth,  is  Fort  Gibson,  which 
was  not  in  existence  in  1821. 

7  The  Verdigris,  Vermilion,  Wasetihoge,  or  Wassuja  river,  for 
which  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  400  and  p.  555.  Its  confluence 
with  the  Arkansaw  is  about  the  distance  said  in  the  text  above 
that  of  the  Neosho.  For  a  few  miles  from  its  mouth  it  forms  a 
part  of  the  boundary  between  the  Cherokee  and  Creek  Nations, 
and  is  then  crossed  by  the  Mo.,  Kas.  and  Tex.  R.  R. ,  Gibson  Sta- 
tion being  about  7  m.  N.  W.  of  Fort  Gibson.  Fowler  will  pro- 
ceed approximately  up  the  Verdigris  for  a  long  distance  before 
turning  more  westward  to  reach  the  Arkansaw  again. 

8  Hugh  Glenn  or  Glen,  whom  Fowler  calls  "  Glann,"  is  readily 
identified  as  a  well-known  Indian  trader  of  those  days.  "A 
party  of  men  accompanying  Mr.  Hugh  Glen  on  his  way  from 


4 


CAMP  ON  THE  VERDIGRIS. 


up  the  virdegree  Wheare  We  Remained  till  the  25th 

Sept  makeing  a  Raingment  for  our  gurney  to  the 

mountains — Heare  five  of  our  Hunters  Left  us  and 

Went  Home  this  Sircumstance  much  dispereted  more 

of  our  men — tho  We  Still  determined  to  pureed — and 

on  the  25th  of  Sept  1821  We  found  our  Selves  20  men 

in  all.9  and  under  the  Command  of  Conl  Hugh  glann 

Fort  Smith,  to  the  trading  house  at  the  mouth  of  the  Verdigris," 
Long's  Exp.  ii,  1823,  p.  171,  with  other  remarks  on  p.  172.  "  5th 
[Sept.,  1820].  At  ten  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Mr.  Glen's  trading 
house  near  the  Verdigris,  about  a  mile  above  its  confluence  with 
the  Arkansa.  We  were  hospitably  received  by  the  interpreter,  a 
Frenchman,  who  informed  us  that  Mr.  Glen  was  absent  on  a 
visit  to  Belle  Point,"  ibid.,  p.  251.  As  we  next  discover,  "  Conl. 
Glann  "  commanded  our  present  expedition. 

9  From  the  above  defective  list  of  20  persons,  taken  in  connec- 
tion with  information  regarding  their  names  to  be  found  further 
on  in  the  book,  we  arrive  at  the  following  approximately  correct 
roster  of  the  party  : 

1.  Colonel  Hugh  Glenn,  in  command. 

2.  Major  Jacob  Fowler,  the  journalist,  second  in  command. 

3.  Robert  Fowler,  brother  of  Jacob  Fowler. 

4.  Baptiste  Roy,  interpreter. 

5.  Baptiste  Peno.    (French  name,  no  doubt  mispelled.) 

6.  George  Douglas. 

7.  Nathaniel  Pryor,  ex-Sergeant  of  Lewis  and  Clark's  Expe- 
dition. 

8.   Bono.    (French  name,  no  doubt  misspelled,  possibly 

Bonhomme.) 

9.   Barbo.  (French  name,  no  doubt  misspelled,  pos- 
sibly Barbu. ) 

10.  Lewis  Dawson.  (Fatally  injured  by  a  bear,  Nov.  13,  1821; 
died  Nov.  16.) 


ROSTER  OF  THE  PARTY. 


5 


With  mager  Jacob  Fowler  Robert  Fowler  Battis 
Roy    Battis  Peno    george  Duglas    Nat  Pryer 

Bono  Barbo     Lewis  Dauson 

Taylor    Richard  Walters  Ward    Jesey  van- 

beber  Slover  Simpson 

Maxwill  Findley    Battis  moran  and  Pall  a 

black  man  the  property  of  mager  Fowler  we  Head 
thirty  Horses  and  mules  Seventen  of  Which  traps  and 
goods  for  the  Indean  traid — and  Each  man  mounted 

11.   Taylor. 

12.  Richard  Walters. 
!   13.  Eli  Ward. 

14.  Jesse  Van  Biber. 

15.   Slover. 

16.   Simpson. 

17.  Dudley  Maxwell. 

18.  Findley. 

19.  Baptiste  Moran. 

20.  Paul,  a  negro  belonging  to  Jacob  Fowler. 

The  most  interesting  of  the  above  names  is  that  of  Nathaniel 
Pryor,  of  whose  identity  with  the  sergeant  of  Lewis  and  Clark  I 
have  no  doubt:  see  L.  and  C,  ed.  of  1893,  p.  254,  delete  the 
query  there,  and  add:  Nathaniel  Pryor  of  Kentucky  became  an 
Ensign  of  the  U.  S.  Army  Feb.  27,  1807;  Second  Lieutenant  May 
3,  1808;  resigned  April  1,  1810  ;  was  appointed  First  Lieutenant 
of  the  44th  Inf.  Aug.  30,  1813;  promoted  to  be  Captain  Oct.  i, 
1814;  and  honorably  discharged  June  15,  1815.  See  also  my 
article,  "  Letters  of  William  Clark  and  Nathaniel  Pryor,"  in 
Annals  of  Iowa,  3d  ser.,  Vol.  I,  No.  8,  Jan.,  1895,  pp.  613-620,  for 
an  account  of  Ensign  Pryor's  disastrous  attempt  to  convey  the 
Mandan  chief  Shahaka  from  St.  Louis,  Mo. ,  to  the  Mandan  vil- 
lages on  the  Missouri. 


6 


UP  THE  VERDIGRIS. 


on  Horsback — We  Left  the  traiding  House  in  the 
afternoon — North  50  West  about  five  miles  to  a  Small 
Crick  Which  Runs  West  in  to  the  virdegree — the 
Bottom  between  the  Six  bull  and  verdegree  is  High 
and  Rich  Well  timbered  With  Some  Caine  and  is 
about  one  and  a  Half  miles  Wide  to  the  Hills — from 
What  We  Cold  Learn  there  is  no  Caine  above  this  on 
the  arkensaw — We  pased  to  day  Some  Pirarie  Cirted 
With  Wood  land  Some  timber  on  the  Crick  it  Rained 
Hard  We  Packed  up  our  goods  and  Covered  them 
With  Skins  to  keep  them  dry  and  Piched  our  tents 
for  the  night — Conl  Hugh  glann  Haveing  Left  us  and 
gon  by  the  mishenerys,10  and  to  meet  us  Some 
Wheare  a  Head — 

26th  We  Set  out  Early  along  the  Road  Leading  to 
the  osage  vilege  11  threw  fine  Pirarie  Lands  a  little 
Rolling  and  Scirted  With  timber  the  ground  is  Black 
and  Rich  and  the  vew  the  most  delightfull  We  this 
day  maid  20  miles  threw  the  Rain  Which  Continued 

10  Indian  missionaries,  several  of  whose  establishments  have 
been  located  in  this  vicinity. 

11  Approximately  up  the  Verdigris,  as  already  indicated.  The 
road  taken  is  marked  on  several  maps  I  have  examined.  For 
the  Osage  village  in  mention,  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1893,  p.  557.  This 
"  Arkansaw  band  "  of  Osages  consisted  of  those  called  "  Osages 
of  the  Oaks,"  in  Long,  ii,  p.  251.  Their  most  influential  man 
then,  as  in  Pike's  time,  was  Clermont,  surnamed  the  "  Builder  of 
Towns,"  and  I  suppose  that  the  village  now  called  Claremore, 


TO  THE  OSAGE  VILLAGE. 


7 


all  day  at  night  Camped  on  a  Crick  about  50  feet  Wid 
Runs  West  With  an  Extensive  Beed  of  Stone  Coal  in 
its  bottom  there  is  Some  Wood  along  the  Crick  but 
the  Cuntry  is  mostly  Pirarie  a  little  Rolling  Scirted 
With  groves  of  timber  Heare  the  Rain  Continued 
all  night — Heare  one  of  our  Hunters — Slover  Lay 
out  all  night  but  Came  in  in  the  morning 

27th  We  Set  out  Early  along  the  path  threw  the 
Pirarie — timber  still  to  be  seen  in  groves  and  along  the 
Branches — We  maid  20  miles  and  Camped  on  a  Small 
Crick  Well  timbered — Heare  we  found  Findley  He 
Left  us  2  days  ago — and  was  Heare  waiting  for  us 
this  day  was  Clear  and  pleesent  Robert  Fowler  killed 
a  Large  Buck — one  Hors  gave  out  was  left 

28th  Sept  1 82 1  Rained  all  day  we  Remained  in 
Camp — 

29th  the  Weather  Clear  We  Set  out  Early  and  was 

Soon  over  taken  By  Conl  glann  and  soon  after  in 

Sight  of  the  osage  vilege.    Heare  We  Ware  delited 

With  a  vew  of  a  nomber  of  Hills  or  mounds  12  nearely 

among  the  Blue  Mounds  on  the  Verdigris,  in  the  Cherokee 
country,  was  named  for  him.  In  1820  some  of  Long's  party- 
were  assured  "that  Clermont  had  then  four  wives,  and  thirty- 
seven  children!  a  number  .  .  .  which  may  probably  be  attrib- 
uted to  this  chief  by  mistake,"  as  the  narrative  sagely  adds. 
Clermont's  band  are  also  called  "  Chaneers,"  ibid.,  p.  244,  on  the 
authority  of  Dr.  Sibley. 

12  These  are  the  Blue  Mounds  mentioned  in  the  last  note.  The 


8 


CROSSING  THE  VERDIGRIS. 


of  the  Same  Hight.  from  70  to  80  feet  but  of  (lifer- 
ent Shapes  Some  Round  and  pointed  like  a  Stack 
others  squair  and  flat,  and  the  top  of  one  neare  the 
vilege  Contains  about  15  acres  of  Rich  Black  land — 
and  great  part  of  the  Bluff  faced  With  a  parpendick- 
ler  Rock — so  that  with  but  little  labour  a  few  men 
might  keep  off  a  large  armey — Heare  is  one  of  the 
most  delight  full  peace  of  Cuntry  I  Have  Ever  Seen 
— of  Rich  lime  stone  land  mixed  With  Wood  lands 
the  Pirarie  is  more  Exstensive  than  Woods — 

Heare  We  find  not  one  sole  in  or  about  the  vilege 
the  Indeans  are  all  gon  a  buffelow  Hunting  and  are 
not  Exspected  to  return  till  in  the  Winter.  We  find 
our  Jurney  to  this  place  one  Continued  Corse  North 
50  W  Heare  we  Crosed  the  virdegree  and  got  on 
Higher  grounds  and  Nearly  Covered  With  Rocks  in 
Some  places  and  Steered  North  70  West  10  miles  to 
a  small  Crick  13  Runing  South  and  Well  timbered — 
Heare  We  Camped  for  the  night — We  Seen  this  day 

several  "  cricks,"  which  Fowler  has  spoken  of  crossing,  are 
inconsiderable  tributaries  of  the  Verdigris  flowing  southerly,  as 
those  called  Big,  Otter,  Dog,  etc. 

13  The  Verdigris  has  been  crossed  from  E.  to  W.  a  very  few 
miles  above  the  confluence  therewith  of  the  Little  Verdigris  or 
Caney  river,  which  is  now  on  Fowler' s  left  as  he  follows  it  up 
approximately,  but  at  some  distance  therefrom,  on  a  general 
course  about  N.  W.  Of  the  series  of  its  small  tributaries,  running 
to  his  left,  the  one  on  which  he  camps  is  perhaps  Five  Mile 
creek,  or  the  next  beyond  that. 


TO  THE  LITTLE  VERDIGRIS. 


9 


Some  Wild  Horses,  game  is  scars  We  this  day  find 
our  Horses  two  Heavey  loaded  and  Concluded  to 
leave  part  [of  their  loads] 

30th  Sept  1 82 1 

We  this  morning  Berryed  or  Cashed  [cached]  as 
the  french  Call  it  32  Bever  traps  2  Cases  of  tobaco  and 
fifty  pounds  of  Brass  Wier  on  the  West  Bant  of  the 
Creek  200  yds  above  the  large  Road  and  50  below  the 
small  path  on  Which  is  a  Connu  [canoe]  marked  on 
an  oack 

October  ith  1821 
We  Set  out  Early  and  Stered  North  50  West  to  the 
little  virdegree 14  Wheare  a  large  Indean  Road 
Crosse  it  this  River  is  about  30  yds  Wide  With 
Clear  Watter  and  High  Banks — and  large  inCamp- 
ment  on  the  East  Side.  Heare  we  Crossed  to 
the  West  Side  and  followed  the  North  forke 
of  the  Road  about  one  mile  to  another  Branch  of  the 
Same  River  but  Not  more  than  ten  Steps  Wide  both 
Streems  Running  South  With  Rich  timbered  bottom 
be  tween  the  boath — after  pasing  this  forke  We  Stered 

14  The  smaller  one  of  the  main  two  forks  of  the  Verdigris,  run- 
ning on  a  general  S.  E.  course  from  Kansas  through  the  N.  E. 
corner  of  Oklahoma  into  the  Cherokee  country,  and  joining 
the  Verdigris  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Blue  Mounds.  Fowler  con- 
tinues up  the  Little  Verdigris. 


IO 


UP  THE  LITTLE  VERDIGRIS. 


the  Same  Corse  threw  Roling  Pirarie  ten  miles  to  a 
mound,  to  the  North  and  East  the  Cuntry  is  a  little 
Rolling  mostly  Pirarie  With  timber  along  the 
Branches  on  our  left  the  mountains  or  High  Hills  ap- 
peer  at  from  four  to  five  miles  distance  Heare  to 
avoid  the  Hills  Which  Continu  on  our  left  We 
Steered  N  30  West  six  mill  [miles]  and  Camped  on 
the  little  virdegree — Peno  Went  off  to  Hunt  in  the 
fore  part  of  this  day  and  did  not  Return — 


2nd  )  We  set  out  Early  and  pased  over  High 
October  V  Leavel  Pirarie  lands  North  45  West  three 

182 1  J  miles  to  the  High  Hills  Crossing  a  small 
Bransh  Runing  North  at  the  futt  of  them — We 
after  Some  time  gained  the  top  of  the  Hills  and  found 
the  Cuntry  Rolling  and  partly  timbered  and  partly 
Pirarie  at  twelve  miles  farthe  We  Crossed  the  little 
virdegree  again  and  Camped  on  the  North  Bank 
Heare  Duglass  got  lost  in  the  Evenings  Hunt  and  lay 
out  all  night 


3rd  ]  this  morning  our  Horses  W^re  much  Scat- 
october  >  tered  and  took  us  till  a  late  our  to  Collect 

1 82 1  '  them — Duglass  found  the  Way  to  Camp — 
and  Peno  Came  in  With  Some  veneson  Haveing  Killed 
three  deer — Heare  we  found  a  large  Indean  Road  go- 
ing up  the  Crick  and  Crossing  some  of  its  Branches 


UP  THE  LITTLE  VERDIGRIS. 


1 1 


South  30  West  and  the  Hills  being  High  We  followed 
the  Road,  the  lands  poor  With  Short  oack  and  Hick- 
ory for  about  fifteen  miles  Wheare  the  Cuntry  begins 
to  appear  With  fine  Rich  Piraries  Well  bordered  With 
Wood  lands  of  a  good  quality  We  this  day  got  one 
deer  and  Some  turkeys  game  is  getting  more  plenty 
— We  maid  20  miles  and  Camped  on  a  Small  Crick 
Running  South — 15 

4th  October  1821 

We  Set  out  Early  and  at  three  miles  Crossed  a 
Crick  50  feet  Wide  Running  No  45  West — and  at 
about  three  miles  farther  in  an  open  Pirarie  We  found 

15  Some  obscure  tributary  of  the  Little  Verdigris,  up  which 
river  Fowler  has  come  to  a  point  probably  not  determinable  from 
his  itinerary.  On  crossing  the  meridian  of  960  W.  he  passed  from 
the  Indian  Territory  into  Oklahoma,  and  is  now  in  the  N.  W. 
corner  of  the  latter,  in  the  Osage  Reservation,  not  far  from  the 
S.  border  of  Kansas.  Hence  he  will  take  a  general  westerly 
course,  through  the  Osage  country,  nearly  parallel  with  the 
Kansas  border  and  Cherokee  strip,  to  the  Arkansaw  river.  I 
find  myself  unable  to  trace  this  traverse  satisfactorily,  as  neither 
the  courses  nor  the  distances  given  can  be  relied  upon.  I  am 
inclined  to  think  Fowler  sometimes  reverses  the  courses  of 
streams — i.  e.t  gives  them  as  they  bear  from  himself,  not  as  they 
flow.  At  any  rate  I  cannot  identify  the  several  streams  he  men- 
tions Oct.  3-5.  I  suppose  that,  after  finishing  with  the  water- 
shed of  the  Little  Verdigris,  he  crosses  some  heads  of  Buck 
(formerly  Suicide)  creek,  and  then  Beaver  and  Little  Beaver 
creeks,  whose  united  streams  enter  the  Arkansaw  at  the  Kaw 
Agency. 


12  ACROSS  COUNTRY  IN  OKLAHOMA. 


a  large  Buffelow  Bull  lying  dead  Soposed  to  be 
killed  by  the  Indeans  We  now  begin  to  Hope  Soon 
to  kill  Some  Buffelow  our  Selves  z.s  we  Have  nothing 
With  us  but  Salt  only  What  We  kill  our  Selves. 
Heare  We  find  our  Selves  in  an  oppen  and  Exsten- 
sive  Pirarie  Scarsly  a  tree  to  be  Seen  but  as  We  pro- 
grass  We  find  Sign  of  Buffelow  We  See  some  deed 
and  Some  Caberey  16 — in  the  Evening  on  our  left  We 
Seen  Ward  one  of  our  men  on  Hors  back  Running  a 
buffelow  Some  of  [us]  put  off  to  asist  Him  but  He 
killed  the  large  Buffelow  Bull  before  We  over  took 
Him — after  takeing  What  meet  We  Wanted — We 
Went  on  makeing  23  miles  and  Camped  on  a  River 
about  50  yds  Wide  Running  West  Soposed  to  be  the 
Bad  Salean  17 — the  Watter  is  Clear  and  deep  at  this 
place  Some  Sign  of  Bever  our  Corse  this  day  is  North 
60  West — 

the  Pirarie  threw  Which  We  passed  this  day  is 
nearly  leavel  With  a  Rich  Black  Sandey  Soil  there  is 
no  other  Rock  Except  that  of  limestone  Which  only 
appeer  in  Spott  on  the  Sides  of  Branches  and  on  the 
top  of  Some  of  the  Highest  ground — for  there  is  no 

16  Cabree  or  cabri — the  American  antelope,  Antilocapra 
americana. 

17  Read  Bad  Saline.  But  this  is  a  mistake;  the  Saline  or  Salt 
fork  of  the  Arkansaw  is  far  from  here,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
main  river.  Qu:  is  the  supposed  "  Bad  Salean  "  a  headwater  of 
Buck  creek  ? 


ACROSS  COUNTRY  IN  OKLAHOMA. 


13 


Hills  Heare  there  is  Some  timber  along  the 
branches 

5th  ]  We  Set  out  Early  Crossing  the  River  a  lit- 
october  V  tie  below  our  Camp  Wheare  there  is  a  good 

1 82 1  J  ford  and  at  about  two  miles  Crossed  a  large 
Crick  100  feet  Wide  it  Corse  South  East  and  about 
10  miles  Crosed  a  Crick  50  feet  Wide  all  So  Running 
South  East  Heare  the  Pirarie  is  a  little  more  Roleing 
— and  at  18  miles  Crosed  a  crick — and  19  miles  in- 
Camped  18  on  a  Crick  the  West  forke  of  the  Same  the 
meet  Below  Wheare  We  Crosed — Heare  the  Cuntry 
Still  Continues  to  be  a  little  Roleing  the  land  Rich  the 
limestone  appeers  in  some  places  along  the  Bluffs 
Which  are  not  High  or  Steep  Hear  We  seen  great 
nombers  of  Poor  Buffelow  Bulls  and  Blame  our 
Hunters  for  not  killing  fat  Cowes  When  there  is  not 
one  to  be  seen 

5th  October  1821  [continued] 
for  We  Cold  not  tell  them  apart  at  So  great  a  dis- 
tance and  it  Was  in  vain  for  our  Hunters  to  tell  us 
18  Four  questionable  streams  passed  to-day;  I  suppose  them  to 
be  the  Beaver  creek  and  its  tributaries  already  mentioned,  as 
Fowler  must  cross  these  to  strike  the  Arkansaw  at  the  only  point 
which  renders  intelligible  his  itinerary  up  this  river  to  the  Little 
Arkansaw  at  Wichita,  Kas.,  as  given  beyond.  Fowler  appears  to 
be  camped  on  Little  Beaver  creek,  above  its  junction  with 
Beaver  creek;  if  so,  he  is  in  the  Kansas  Indian  Reservation,  a 
few  miles  N.  of  present  Kaw  Agency. 


14 


TO  THE  ARKANSAW  RIVER. 


there  Was  no  Cows  among  So  many  Buffelow  as  We 
Cold  See  at  all  most  any  time  Corse  this  No  50 
West  19  miles — 

6th  October  1821 

We  set  out  Early  over  Butiftill  High  Pirarie  leavel 
and  Rich  and  at  Eight  miles  West  We  fell  on  the 
arkensaw  River  19  Heare  there  is  plenty  of  timber  all 
a  long  the  River  on  both  Sides  as  far  as  We  Cold  See 
We  are  now  out  of  meet  and  Blameing  our  Hunters 
for  not  finding  Buffelow  Cows  the  Have  neglected 
to  kill  the  Bulls  When  the  Cold  and  the  are  not  so 
plenty  as  the  Ware  and  We  beleve  Have  been  latly 
drove  off  by  the  Indeans  as  the  are  now  shy. 

6th  octor  1 82 1  [continued] 
We  now  steered  north  leaveing  the  [Arkansaw] 
River  on  our  lefft  Hand  Beleveing  the  High  Hill  and 
Bluffs  Near  the  River  Wold  be  difequal  to  pass  With 
loaded  pack  Horses — at  6  miles  over  High  Rich 
lime  stone  Pirarie  We  Camped  on  a  Crick  20  60  feet 

19  At  a  point  somewhere  within  the  present  Kansas  Indian 
Reservation,  in  Oklahoma,  perhaps  not  far  from  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Chilocco  or  Chilocky  creek,  a  little  S.  of  the  Cherokee 
strip. 

20  Apparently  the  stream  now  known  as  Grouse  creek,  which 
traverses  Cowley  Co.,  Kas.,  on  a  general  S.  S.  W.  course,  to  fall 
into  the  Arkansaw  in  the  Cherokee  strip,  between  Kansas  and 
Oklahoma. 


UP  THE  ARKANSAW. 


15 


Wide  Wheare  We  killed  Some  turkeys  in  the  Even- 
ing— We  Ware  all  So  informed  by  Some  of  the  party 
that  Indeans  Ware  Camped  at  no  great  distance — 

7th  October  1821  We  moved  West  up  along  neare 
the  [Arkansaw]  River  over  Some  High  Rockey 
Bluffs  and  threw  a  large  Sandy  bottom  to  the  bank  of 
the  River  makeing  five  miles  and  Camped  near  the 
Indeans  from  them  got  Some  dryed  meet  Corn  Beens 
and  dryed  Pumkins  for  [which]  We  paid  them  In 
Such  artickels  as  the  wanted — these  are  the  osage  In- 
deans and  the  first  We  met  With  on  our  Route  the 
[they  are]  frendly  the  Weather  is  now  giting  Cold 
With  High  Winds  Cloudey  and  Rained  threw  the 
night — the  timber  in  the  bottoms  and  Hill  Sides  is  a 
king  [kind]  of  Jack  oak  and  very  low  Cotten  Wood 
and  Willow  groes  along  the  River — we  stoped  at  this 
place  for  the  purpose  of  purchasing  Horses  Haveing 
left  two  be  Hind  and  three  more  unfitt  for  Survice 
makes  us  bad  of  for  Horses  and  the  prospect  of  pro- 
vetions  is  not  promesing  as  We  Heare  the  Indeans 
are  Camped  for  alonge  Way  a  Head  of  us  threw 
Wheare  We  must  pass  let  [left]  one  Horse  With  an 
Indean — 

8the  October  1821 

We  moved  up  the  River  N  45  West  two  miles 
and  Camped  the  Rain  Still  Continues  Heare  Conl 


1 6  INTO  KANSAS — WALNUT  CREEK. 


glann  purchased  one  Poor  Hors  at  a  High  price  and 
Highered  one  Indean  to  go  along  With  us  Some  of 
the  Hands  killed  10  turkeys 

9th  octr  1 82 1 — 

We  Set  out  Early  and  Steered  north  leaveing  the 
River  at  Right  angles  over  Riseing  butifull  Pirarie 
three  miles  to  White  21  River  about  70  yds  Wide  Run- 
ning West  into  the  arkensaw  this  River  Has  a  Con- 
tinued grove  of  timber  all  alonge  its  Cores  [course] 
as  far  as  We  Cold  see  and  the  land  Rich — We  Crosed 
this  River  leaveing  it  on  our  Right  and  up  it  at  Eight 
miles  Camped  on  the  South  West  Side  for  the  pur- 
pos  of  purchasing  Horses  Sucseeded  in  Swoing 
[swapping]  two  and  purchasing  two  at  a  High  price 
— the  Indeans  advise  us  to  Cross  the  arkensaw  and 
Steer  West  Corse  and  strike  the  arkensaw  at  the  big 
timber  Near  the  mountains  but  the  Season  is  late  and 
Want  of  Wood  and  Watter  Renders  it  a  Hazous  un- 
dertakeing — the  Indeans  Say  it  is  about  two  days 
travel  to  the  little  arkensaw — the  Hunters  Brought 

21  White  or  Whitewater  is  a  former  name  of  that  stream  which 
is  now  known  as  Walnut  creek,  and  on  which  is  situated  Win- 
field,  seat  of  Cowley  Co.,  Kas.  Its  general  course  is  S.  through 
Butler  and  Cowley  counties,  but  it  loops  both  E.  and  W.  on 
approaching  the  Arkansaw.  Fowler  says  that  he  struck  it  on  its 
W.  bend,  which  is  above  the  place  called  Arkansas  City,  and  if, 
after  crossing  it,  he  ascended  it  for  8  m.,  he  proceeded  about 
N.  W.  in  the  direction  of  Winfield. 


UP  WALNUT  CREEK. 


in  four  deer  one  very  fine  Buck  the  first  good 
meet  We  Have  Head  the  land  on  this  Creek  is  Rich 
and  and  Well  timbered  along  the  bottoms  the  Bluffs 
furnis  abundance  of  lime  Stone  for  all  purposes  of 
Building  and  fenceing — and  is  Capeable  of  makeing 
one  of  the  finest  Settlements  in  the  united  States — 
there  being  a  nomber  of  the  best  of  Springs 

ioth  octr  1 82 1 

We  purchased  yesterday  one  small  Hors  and  one 
to  day — But  when  We  gethered  up  our  Horses  to 
move  off  Robert  Fowlers  Horse  Was  mising — all 
tho  He  Was  With  the  Rest  in  the  morning — We  Con- 
clude the  Indeans  Have  Hiden  Him  in  the  Woods 
and  leave  Peno  to  Sarch  for  Him  and  to  fetch  up 
Barbo  left  Sick  With  Him — all  so  left  a  Blanket  to 
give  the  Indean  that  find  or  Return  the  Horse 

nth  octr  1821 

We  Set  out  Early  leaveing  [Walnut  Creek]  on  the 
Wright  and  Steering  N  25  West  fifteen  miles  over 
High  Pirarie  to  a  small  Crick  and  Camped  22  Near  its 
mouth  yesterday  Peno  Returned  With  the  Sick  man 
but  With  out  the  lost  Hors  the  Hors  is  no  doupt 
Stolen  and  With  the  knoledge  of  the  Chiefs,  these 

22  Nearly  on  the  line  between  Cowley  and  Sumner  counties, 
Kas. 


1 8  OVER  TO  THE  LITTLE  ARKANSAW. 

last  Indeans  appeer  more  unfriendly  and  talk  Sasy  and 
bad  to  us  but  this  Is  to  be  Exspected  as  the  Come 
from  the  upper  vilege  and  are  Said  to  be  a  Collection 
of  the  Raskals  from  the  other  vileges 

1 2th  October  1821 

Cloudey  and  Rains  a  little  We  Set  out  Early  North 
60  West  fifteen  miles  over  a  Rich  low  Ridge  there  is 
Scarcly  a  tree  or  a  Stone  to  be  Seen  and  Hole  land 
Covered  With  tall  grass  there  is  all  along  Whight 
River  and  on  this  Ridge  much  sign  of  Buffelow  but 
the  Indeans  Have  drove  them  off — We  Camped  on 
Small  Branch  23  Near  the  arkensaw  River 

13th  octor  1 82 1 

We  Set  out  Early  up  the  River  Leaveing  it  on  our 
left  at  a  Bout  14  miles  Crossed  a  Small  Crick  on 
which  is  a  large  Beed  of  the  Plaster  of  Paris  at  20 
miles  We  Camped  on  the  Bank  of  the  little  arken- 
saw 24 — one  Indean  Cheef  and  two  young  me[n] 
viseted  us  at  Camp  and  stated  the  Ware  [they  were] 
glad  to  see  us  Whitemen  and  frends — as  they  Had 
Seen  or  Heared  Some  of  our  men  Last  Evening  and 
Soposed  them  be  Paneys  [Pawnees]  and  their  Ene- 

23  Vicinity  of  Mulvane,  on  or  near  the  line  between  Sumner  and 
Sedgwick  counties,  Kas. 

24  At  Wichita,  seat  of  Sedgwick  Co.,  Kas.,  where  the  Little 
Arkansaw  joins  the  Arkansaw  river. 


TO  COW  CREEK. 


19 


mies  on  which  acoumpt  the  Head  [they  had]  all  left 
their  Camp  and  Hid  them  Selves  in  the  timberd 
lands  on  the  River — 

14th  oct  1 82 1 

We  Set  out  Early  Crossing  the  little  arkensaw  and 
steering  West  at  12  miles  Came  to  the  Banks  of  the 
arkensaw  thence  up  the  River  North  70  West  We 
Camped  on  the  [left]  Bank  25  With  out  trees — We 
yester  left  one  Horse  He  gave  out — and  this  morn- 
ing discharged  the  Hiered  Indean — the  Cuntry  Con- 
tinues fine  the  land  leavel  and  Rich  the  timber  is 
plenty  on  the  little  arkensaw  and  Some  for  a  few  miles 
up  the  main  River  but  Heare  there  is  no  timber  or 
Willowes  on  the  River  BufTelow  Bulls  still  appeer 
But  no  Cows  and  we  are  now  Satisfyed  of  the  Caus  of 
the  Hunters  not  killing  any  of  that  Speces  no  Sign 
of  deer,  tho  We  seen  some  turkeys  last  Evening 

I5the  octobr  1821 

We  set  out  at  our  ushal  time  up  the  River  No  80 
West  and  Stoped  at  the  mouth  of  a  bold  sreem  of 
Watter  70  feet  Wide  26 — but  We  Ware  Soon  alarmed 

25  Up  which  the  party  will  continue  for  many  days.  Camp 
to-day  in  Sedgwick  Co.,  near  the  border  of  Reno  Co. 

26  Cow  creek,  a  considerable  tributary  of  the  Arkansaw,  falling 
in  below  Hutchinson,  seat  of  Reno  Co.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1893, 
P-  424. 


20 


ABOVE  COW  CREEK. 


by  the  Hunters  Comming  and  Haveing  Some  Indeans 
on  Hors  Back  and  soposed  to  be  in  pursute  of  them — 
We  Emedetly  move  up  the  River  Crossing  the  Crick 
to  some  Sand  Knobs  on  the  River  Bank  about  400 
yds  above  the  mouth  of  the  Crick — there  being  no 
timber  We  maid  a  Brest  Worke  of  our  Bagage  and 
Remained  the  balence  of  the  [day]  Waiting  the  ari- 
vel  of  the  Indeans — but  none  appeered — Some 
Buffelow  Bulls  Ware  killed  to  day  We  kept  the 
Horses  tyed  up  all  night — yesterday  the  Sand  Knobs 
appeer  at  about  ten  miles  distance  on  our  Right  Hand 
and  run  Perellel  With  the  River 
Some  Scatering  trees  appeer  on  the  Knobs — 

1 6th  October  1821 
We  Set  out  Early  and  maid  ten  miles  up  the  River 
the  Sand  Knobs  still  on  the  Right  We  Sent  out  Some 
Hunters  to  kill  a  Cow  but  the  Remained  out  all  night 
We  Ware  much  alarmed  for  their  safety — no  mee 
meet  for  Suppe  or  Brackfest — our  Corse  No  70 
West  and  Camped  on  the  River  27 

17th  octr  1 82 1 

We  Continued  up  the  River  North  65  West  15  miles 
and  Camped  on  the  Bank  Scarcly  a  tree  to  be  Seen 

*»  At  or  near  Hutchinson,  Reno  Co. 


APPROACHING  THE  GREAT  BEND.  21 


— We  this  day  pased  the  Head  Spring  28  of  the  Crick 
at  the  mouth  of  Which  We  Camped  on  the  1 5th  this 
[is]  a  large  butifull  Spring  about  three  miles  from  the 
River  on  the  north  Side  and  in  a  leavel  RichPirarie  the 
Sand  Hills  appeer  all  a  long  on  the  South  Side  and 
near  the  River — the  are  not  more  then  60  or  70  feet 
High  and  the  Cuntry  leavel  beyound  them  to  a  great 
distance  those  on  the  north  about  the  Same  Hight 
and  Several  miles  from  the  River  29 — Which  is  from 
two  to  400  yds  Wide — With  large  Sand  bars  and  low 
Islands  this  is  its  general  Carecter  as  fare  as  We  Have 
seen  it 

1 8th  octr  1 82 1 
We  Set  out  at  our  ushal  time  at  ten  miles  pased  a 
point  of  Rocks  and  a  Hoop  wood  tree  on  them — to 
our  Right  and  almost  one  mile  from  the  River — and 
at  [illegible]  there  is  Some  Cotten  Wood  trees  along 

28  The  ultimate  sources  of  Cow  creek,  at  the  mouth  of  which 
Fowler  camped  on  the  15th,  are  of  course  afar  off.  He  means  a 
source  of  Bull  creek,  that  branch  of  Cow  creek  which  arises  in 
the  vicinity  of  Sterling,  Rice  Co. ,  and  runs  approx.  parallel  with 
the  Arkansaw  pastNickerson,  Reno  Co.,  to  join  Cow  creek  a  few 
miles  below  the  latter  place. 

29  The  1700-feet  contour  line  is  quite  near  the  S.  side  of  the 
Arkansaw  for  several  miles  along  here,  and  crosses  the  river  a 
little  below  Raymond,  Rice  Co.,  while  on  the  N.  side  the  same 
contour  line  is  as  far  off  as  Lyons — some  11  or  12  miles.  Fowler 
viewed  the  topography  correctly. 


22 


ANOTHER  WALNUT  CREEK. 


the  River — at  18  miles  We  Camped  30  on  the  Bank 
Without  trees — Some  Islands  in  the  River  the 
Higher  grounds  aproch  nigher  the  River  but  Loos 
the  appeeren  of  Sand  Hills  on  the  north 

19th  octr  1 82 1 

We  set  out  at  the  ushal  time  and  at  8  miles  West 
We  pased  a  point  of  Red  Rocks  about  600  yds  from 
the  River  and  at  Eleven  miles  Crosed  the  paney 31 
River  about  one  and  a  Half  miles  above  its  mouth 
this  is  a  deep  bold  Streem  50  feet  Wide  of  Running 
Watter  Banks  High  and  about  80  feet  Wide  at  the 
top  Heare  is  ash  Walnut  Elm  and  Cottenwood  over 
to  this  place  Was  West — this  is  the  Second  Streem  We 

30  At  or  near  Ellinwood,  Barton  Co.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895, 
p.  425.  Fowler  is  fairly  on  the  great  bend  of  the  Arkansaw,  but 
not  yet  at  the  place  called  Great  Bend. 

31  A  mistake — Fowler  has  not  yet  reached  the  Pawnee  fork  of 
the  Arkansaw.  His  "  paney  River  "  is1  Walnut  creek,  near  which 
is  Great  Bend,  seat  of  Barton  Co.  This  identification  is  proven 
by:  (1)  The  west  course  assigned  for  to-day,  the  reach  from 
Ellinwood  to  Great  Bend  being  the  only  one  in  that  direction. 

(2)  The  walnut  and  other  trees  named  as  growing  on  this  stream. 

(3)  The  statement  that  this  is  the  second  stream  crossed  since 
leaving  the  Little  Arkansaw — the  only  other  one  being  Cow 
creek  of  p.  19.  (4)  The  courses  and  distances  given  beyond  for 
the  identifiable  streams  crossed,  namely:  Pawnee  fork,  Coon 
creek,  and  Mulberry  creek,  all  of  which  fetch  out  quite  right,  if 
the  present  adjustment  be  made,  otherwise  all  wrong.  It  would 
be  curious  to  know  if  this  is  simply  a  blunder  of  Fowler's,  or  if 
Walnut  creek  was  once  known  as  "paney  river  ";  most  likely  the 


ROUNDING  GREAT  BEND. 


23 


Have  Crosed  Since  pasing  the  little  arkensaw — We 
found  a  good  ford  [across  Walnut  Creek]  and 
Steered  South  50  West  Six  miles  to  the  Bank  of  the 
River— the  land  leavel  as  fare  as  the  Eye  Can  see. 
Some  Cottenwood  on  the  Banks  and  Some  Bushis. 
the  Red  Rock  is  evidently  a  volcanic  production  is 
porous  like  pomestone  but  heavier  than  common 
Sand  stone — Back  from  the  river  5  miles  the  Hunt- 
ers reports  very  Large  quantities  of  pomestone  on  the 
side  of  a  hill  which  appears  to  them  to  be  half  blown 
off  (Hill)  by  some  cause — The  sand  and  gravel  thrown 
up  by  the  Prarie  Squarrels  [Cynomys  ludovicianus~\  is 

former,  as  I  have  never  met  with  the  present  malidentification 
before.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  425. 

Fowler  rounds  the  great  bend,  past  Great  Bend,  and  camps,  as 
he  says,  9  m.  short  of  the  true  Pawnee  fork.  It  will  be  observed 
that  he  has  no  name  but  "  Red  Rock  "  for  the  subsequently  and 
long  famous  Pawnee  Rock,  which  now  gives  name  to  a  station 
on  the  railroad,  said  to  be  16  m.  above  Great  Bend  and  13  m. 
below  Larned.  It  is  said  to  have  received  its  name  from  a  fight 
there  in  May  or  June,  1826,  when  an  expedition  which  Col.  Ceran 
St.  Vrain  had  fitted  out  was  attacked  by  Pawnees,  and  Kit  Carson, 
then  a  boy,  killed  his  own  mule  by  mistake  for  an  Indian  during 
a  false  alarm  the  night  before.  "  Pawnee  Rock  is  no  longer  con- 
spicuous. Its  material  has  been  torn  away  both  by  the  railroad 
and  the  settlers  in  the  vicinity,  to  build  foundations  for  water- 
tanks,  in  the  one  instance,  and  for  the  construction  of  their 
houses,  barns,  and  sheds,  in  the  other.  Nothing  remains  of  the 
once  famous  landmark,  its  site  is  occupied  as  a  cattle  corral  by 
the  owner  of  the  claim  in  which  it  is  situated,"  says  Inman,  Old 
Santa  Fe  Trail,  1897,  pp.  404,  405. 


24 


PAWNEE  FORK. 


precisely  the  same  of  that  in  the  river  for  5  or  8  miles 
distance  from  the  river  See  great  nombers  of  buffelow 
and  Elks  one  of  the  Hunters  killed  three  Cows  but 
Haveing  no  Horse  With  Him  the  meet  Was  left  out 
and  lost  Except  a  few  pounds  He  Carryed  in  on  His 
back — 

20th  octobr  1821 

We  Steered  South  40  West  and  at  nine  miles 
Crosed  a  Crick  32  40  feet  Wide  a  bold  Running  streem 
about  one  futt  deep  and  a  few  trees  up  it  In  sight,  at 
ten  miles  We  Camped  on  the  River  Bank  in  a  low  Bot- 
tom— at  about  three  miles  the  ground  Rises  a  little 
So  as  to  form  low  Hills  large  Hords  of  Buffelow  In 
Sight  the  Sand  Hills  Still  appeer  on  the  South  Side 
of  the  River  and  to  appeerence  distetute  of  vigeta- 
tion  as  the  are  Bald  While  those  on  the  north  are  a 
Hard  Black  Soil  With  Some  progecting  Rocks  and 
Covered  With  vigetation  mostly  a  Short  grass  Some- 
thing like  Blew  grass — on  the  morning  of  the  18th 
Findley  mounted  his  [horse]  took  With  Him  His 
Blankets  and  Crossed  the  River  to  the  South  Side  for 
the  purpose  of  killing  a  Boffelow  Cow  Since  Which 
time  We  Have  Heard  nothing  of  Him — yesterday 

32  This  is  the  Pawnee  fork,  which  Fowler  crosses  at  Larned, 
Pawnee  Co.,  and  continues  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Arkansaw. 
See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  432. 


COON  CREEK. 


25 


morning  Sent  Back  two  men  to  look  for  Him — the 
Have  not  Returned — We  are  afraid  Findley  is  lost  by 
going  two  fare  out  in  the  Sand  Hills  We  Exspect  to 
Stop  in  about  two  days  to  Rest  our  Horses  and  Wait 
for  Findley  to  Come  up — 

21st  Octr  1821 
We  set  out  at  the  ushal  Hour  and  at  Seven  miles 
pased  a  point  of  Rocks  on  Which  stands  two  trees 
about  600  yds  from  the  River — and  seven  and  a  Half 
miles  Came  to  a  deep  and  mudey  Crick  33  100  feet 
Wide  Heare  Some  of  our  Horses  Run  to  drink  and 
Ware  Swomped  With  their  loads  and  Ware  forsed 
to  be  pulled  out — We  Went  [up]  it  about  Half  a 
mile  and  Crossed  over  and  Camped  about  three  miles 
up  it — Findley ['s]  mair  gave  out  this  day  and  Was 
left  We  maid  We  maid  ten  miles  this  day  South  50 
West-r— this  is  a  butifull  Running  Streem  With  many 
fine  Springs  along  its  Banks — the  Hunters  killed  two 
Fatt  Cows  We  Have  now  plenty  of  good  meet — the 
two  men  Returned  but  no  word  of  Findley — a  point 
of  Hills  or  Rocks  appeers  at  seven  miles  distance  near 
the  River  Bareing  South  35  W — We  gave  this  the 

33  Big  Coon  creek,  which  skirts  the  Arkansaw  for  a  long  dis- 
tance, and  on  which  are  Garfield,  Pawnee  Co.,  and  Kinsley, 
Edwards  Co.  Camp  in  the  vicinity  of  Garfield.  See  Pike,  ed.  of 
1895,  pp.  434,  435. 


26 


COON  CREEK. 


name  of  Buffelow  Crick34  from  one  of  our  Horses  Be- 
ing Swomped  With  the  meet  of  a  Buffelow  on  Him 
and  these  anemels  Being  very  plenty  Heare 

22nd  octr  1 82 1  monday 
We  Set  out  Early  and  at  7  miles  pased  the  point 
mentioned  yester  day  a  bout  one  from  the  River  at 
fifteen  miles  Camped  on  the  Bank  of  the  River  about 
three  miles  to  the  left  of  our  line  of  march  about  4 
miles  Back  of  our  Camp  We  Crossed  a  Branch  35  of 
Bold  Running  Watter  30  feet  Wide — no  timber 
Wheare  We  lay  the  men  Waided  over  and  geathered 
drift  Wood  for  the  night  the  Hunters  killed  one  fatt 
Buffelow  Some  Cotten  Wood  on  the  South  Side  of 
the  River  above  and  below  the  Camp — the  Sand 
Hills  Still  appeer  on  that  Side  the  sand  Hills  aproch 
nier  the  River  With  Some  Cotten  Wood  trees  on 
them — Findley  Returned 

23rd  octr  1 82 1  tusday 
We  Set  [out]  at  the  ushal  Hour  South  10  West  up 
the  River  maid  ten  miles  and  Camped  in  a  low  Bot- 
tom the  Sand  Hills  Continue  on  the  South — very 
leavel  on  the  north  for  a  great  distance  Back  no  tim- 

34  The  same  Big  Coon  creek,  up  which  Fowler  is  still  going, 
approx.  parallel  with  the  Arkansaw.  Camp  in  the  vicinity  of 
Kinsley,  Edwards  Co. 

35  One  of  the  forks  of  the  same  Big  Coon  creek. 


BUFFALO  AND  MUSTANGS. 


27 


ber  on  the  north  Side  for  the  last  two  days  march 
Emence  Hords  of  Buffelow  all  traveling  to  the  north 
While  those  we  pased  a  few  days  ago  Ware  traveling 
to  the  South — We  see  maney  Wild  Horses — we  Ex- 
spect  [Indians  are?]  near  us  to  the  South  Which 
moves  the  Buffelow  to  the  north  the  Islands  and 
sand  bars  still  Continue  But  no  bever  We  Head  a  fine 
feast  last  night  on  four  fatt  Buffelow  Cowes 

24th  octr  1 82 1  Wensday — 
We  Set  out  Early  and  at  Seven  miles  the  River  Was 
2\  miles  to  the  left  and  at  Eleven  miles  We  maid  the 
lower  Eand  of  an  Island  on  Which  there  is  timber  but 
none  on  Ither  Side — the  main  Chanel  is  on  the  South 
Side  Hear  the  High  land  aproch  the  River  on  both 
Sides — on  the  north  Side  there  apperes  a  Whightis 
[whitish]  Rock  of  Considerable  Exstent  the  River 
makes  Hear  a  Short  Bend  to  the  Right — the  Cuntry 
Heare  is  a  little  Rolling  But  the  land  Rich  and  Buti- 
full — no  Wheare  two  steep  for  the  Waggon  or  the 
plow.  Heare  at  the  uppe  Eand  of  this  Island  the  Bluff 
aproches  the  River  and  is  the  first  above  the  little 
arkensaw — that  that  Shews  it  Rocky — on  this  Island 
there  is  good  food  for  the  Horses — and  We  Con 
Cluded  to  lay  By  one  day  to  mend  our  mogesons  and 
Rest  our  Horses  as  many  of  there  Backs  Ware  Sore 
oing  to  the  carelesness  of  the  men  the  Horses  are 


28 


MULBERRY  CREEK. 


Poor  and  We  Exspect  that  [some]  of  them  Will  not 
be  able  to  Rech  the  mountains 

25th  octobr  1 82 1 

We  Exspored  the  Cuntry  for  a  few  miles  Round 
and  on  an  Island  about  three  miles  above  us  found  an 
Indean  fort  Which  might  Contain  about  60  men  this 
fort  Is  maid  nearly  Round  and  Built  of  logs  layed  on 
Each  other — and  is  about  two  years  old  and  must 
Have  been  built  By  a  War  party  Which  did  not  oc- 
cupy it  long — tho  it  Has  been  Inhabetid  not  more 
than  two  or  three  Weaks  ago  by  Some  People — the 
Haveing  used  fyer  and  left  the  Spit  on  Which  the 
Head  [they  had]  Roasted  meet — above  this  Island  a 
streem  36  of  Bold  Running  Watter  one  Hundred  and 
fity  feet  Wid  puts  in  on  the  South  Side — no  timber 
at  its  mouth  but  timber  appeers  about  two  miles  up  it 
— its  Cors  is  South  25  West — the  Sand  Hills  Con- 
ting  above  this  Crick  but  appers  in  a  long  Contin- 
ued Ridge 

36  Mulberry  creek,  falling  into  the  right  bank  of  the  Arkansaw 
at  town  of  Ford,  Ford  Co.  Here  is  a  case  in  which  Fowler  obvi- 
ously reverses  the  course  of  a  stream,  giving  the  direction  as  it 
bears  from  himself;  N.  250  E.  is  about  right  for  Mulberry  creek. 
See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  436.  This  identification  of  Mulberry 
creek  shows  that  we  have  fetched  Fowler  correctly  from  the  great 
bend,  his  courses  and  distances  proving  to  be  near  enough. 


DODGE  CITY — CIMARRON. 


29 


26th  October  1821  Friday 
We  Set  out  Early  and  Crossing  the  River  to  the 
South  Side  Steered  our  Corse  West  and  Crossing  the 
[Mulberry]  Crick  mentioned  yesterday  at  six  miles 
and  Crossing  a  point  of  low  land  leaveing  the 
River  a  bout  3  miles  to  the  Right  in  the 
Bend  and  at  twenty  miles 37  Stoped  on  an  Island 
Well  Clothed  With  timber  Heare  Was  all  so  an 
old  Indean  Fort  Smaller  than  the  other  and  Had 
been  used  by  the  Same  pursons  that  Head  lately  been 
at  the  other  We  Heare  Con  Clude  them  to  be  White 
men  there  Horses  being  Shod — We  Have  as  yet  Head 
but  three  nights  of  frost  and  no  Ice — We  Have  not 
Seen  one  tree  on  Ither  Side  of  the  River  the  only 
apper  on  the  Islands  and  nothing  there  but  Cotten 
Wood — at  this  Island  the  main  Chanel  Is  on  the 
north  Side 

Satterday  27th  octr  1821 

We  Set  out  Early  Steering  West  on  the  South  Side 
of  the  River — fifteen  miles38  to  an  Island  the  main 
Channel  on  the  north  Side — the  River  as  ushal  is  full 
of  Islands  With  more  or  Less  Cotten  [wood]  on  them 

87  The  distance  given  sets  Fowler  at  or  near  site  of  present 
Dodge  City,  seat  of  Ford  Co. ,  for  many  years  the  most  notable 
point  along  this  portion  of  the  river,  as  it  still  is.  See  Pike,  ed. 
of  1895,  p.  437. 

38  Vicinity  of  Cimarron,  Gray  Co.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  438. 


30 


INGALLS — PIERCEVILLE. 


but  none  on  Ither  Side  of  the  River — We  this  day  left 
Findley  With  two  Horses  and  one  mule  With  Instruc- 
tion to  Remain  on  the  Island  five  days  and  then  to 
follow  us  as  the  Horses  Wold  be  Rested  by  that  time 

28th  octr  1 82 1 

We  Set  out  at  our  ushal  Hour  and  keeping  up  the 
River  West  ten  miles39  to  a  point  of  timber  on  the 
South  Side  the  Rockey  [hills]  frequently  appeer  on 
the  north  Side  and  the  Sand  Hills  on  the  South  Some 
Scattering  Cotten  Wood  trees  gro  on  the  Sand  Hills 
one  othe  Hors  gave  out  this  day  and  Was  left 

monday  29th  octr  1821 
We  Set  out  at  our  ushal  Hour  Steering  N  70  West 
up  the  River  at  fifteen  miles  Crossed  a  Spring  branch 
to  a  few  Cotten  Wood  trees  on  the  River  Bank  in  low 
Bottom  Where  We  Camped40  for  the  night  Heare 
the  Hunters  killed  one  deer  and  See  Several  more — 
this  this  the  first  We  Have  Seen  Since  We  left  the 
Paney  River  but  the  Buffelow  and  Elk  are  In  great 
a  bondance  all  the  Way  So  that  the  Hunters  kill  [all] 
the[y]  Wish  We  all  So  got  two  Cows  to  day — and 
See  a  great  many  Elk  

39  Vicinity  of  Ingalls,  Gray  Co. ,  or  rather  beyond. 

40  At  some  point  beyond  Pierceville,  Finney  Co.  See  Pike,  ed. 
of  1895,  p.  440.  ,  ' 


GARDEN  CITY  AND  BEYOND. 


31 


30th  octobr  1 82 1 
We  set  out  as  ushal  and  Steered  North  75  West  ten 
miles  to  a  low  point  of  greavel  and  Sand  Washed  by 
the  River  the  land  Rises  gently  to  the  left  for  about 
one  and  a  Half  miles  both  above  and  below  this  point 
the  Bottoms  on  the  River  are  low — at  fifteen  miles 
We  Camped  41  on  an  Island  Clothed  With  tall  grass 
and  Cotten  Wood  trees — the  main  Chanel  on  the 
north  Some  Small  Islands  on  the  South  With  out 
trees 

31st  octr  1 82 1  Wensday 
We  Continued  our  Rout  on  the  South  Side  our 
Corse  South  42  Sixty  five  West  fifteen  miles  to  a  point 
of  Woods  on  the  River  Bank  Heare  is  fine  tall  grass 
for  our  Horses  and  young  Cotten  Wood  and  Wil- 
lowes  are  very  plenty — a  great  many  trees  appeer  to 
Have  [been]  Cut  down  by  White  men  and  a  french 
trading  Camp  Have  been  latly  burned  down  Soposed 

41  Having  passed  Garden  City,  seat  of  Finney  Co.,  by  perhaps 
8  or  10  m. 

42  This  first  southing  seems  to  indicate  a  start  from  a  point 
where  the  river  reaches  lat.  380  N.,  near  the  W.  border  of  Finney 
Co.,  at  about  the  distance  last  said  beyond  Garden  City;  whence 
the  general  course  of  the  Arkansaw  is  nearly  as  said  past  Deer- 
field  and  Lakin  to  Hartland/ Kearney  Co.  The  distance  given 
from  this  turn  of  the  river  would  bring  Fowler  somewhere 
between  the  two  last  named  places. 


32 


CHOUTEAU'S  ISLAND. 


to  [be]  Shotoes  43  the  Hunters  killed  this  day  three  of 
the  fatest  Buffelows  that  Have  yet  Been  Braught  to 
Camp — Buffelow  Elk  deer  Caberey  and  Wild  Horses 
are  in  great  nombers — High  Wind  all  day — 

ist  november  1821 

Lay  by  to  Rest  Horses  and  dress  Skins  and  pre- 
pare for  Winter — this  morning  the  first  Ice  We  Seen 
frose  in  the  Kittle  about  as  thick  as  the  Blaid  of  a 
knife  and  Ice  floted  down  the  River — the  Bluffs  or 
Hills  on  the  north  Sid  aproch  the  River  and  those  on 
the  South  are  at  about  3  miles  distance — 

43  Chouteau's,  whose  name  was  long  borne  by  a  large  island  in 
this  vicinity,  not  easy  to  locate  exactly.  If  there  has  been  but  one 
of  this  name,  Chouteau's  island  has  floated  a  good  many  miles  up 
and  down  the  river — at  least,  in  books  I  have  sought  on  the  sub- 
ject. Inman  locates  it  near  Cimarron,  Kas.,  p.  42  ;  at  the  mouth 
of  Big  Sandy  creek,  Col.,  p.  75;  and  his  map  agrees  with  the 
latter  position.  He  says,  pp.  40,  41  :  "  As  early  as  1815,  Auguste 
P.  Chouteau  and  his  partner,  with  a  large  number  of  trappers 
and  hunters,  went  out  to  the  valley  of  the  upper  Arkansas,  .  .  . 
The  island  on  which  Chouteau  established  his  trading-post,  and 
which  bears  his  name  even  to  this  day,  is  in  the  Arkansas  River 
on  the  boundary  line  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico.  .  .  . 
While  occupying  the  island,  Chouteau  and  his  old  hunters  were 
attacked  by  about  three  hundred  Pawnees,  whom  they  repulsed 
with  the  loss  of  thirty  killed  and  wounded."  (Auguste  P.  Chou- 
teau, b.  May  9,  1786,  married  Sophie  A.  Labadie  Feb.  15,  1809; 
d.  1839.  He  was  the  eldest  son  of  John  Pierre  Chouteau,  and 
elder  brother  of  Pierre  Chouteau,  jr.,  b.  Jan.  19,  1789,  d.  Oct.  6, 
1865.) 


HARTLAND — KENDALL. 


33 


2nd  Remained  In  Camp  all  day  fine  Weather — 
Some  frost  last  night  With  Ice — 

3rd  November  1821 

We  Steered  S°  65  W  five  miles  to  a  low  point  of 
land  With  Rocks  Washed  By  the  River  on  thes  Rocks 
are  some  Small  Hoop  Wood  trees  the  first  We  Have 
Seen  for  a  long  time  and  those  are  the  first  Rocks  We 
Have  pased  on  the  South  Side  of  the  River — Heare 
the  [river]  bends  a  little  to  the  Right44  We  pro- 
ceded  ten  miles  further  pasing  Some  fine  Springs  to 
the  point  of  an  Island  on  the  South  Side  of  the  River 
Haveing  pased  over  a  point  [of]  bald  Sand  Hills 
Washed  by  the  River  about  Half  a  mile  below  our 
Camp  for  We  Camped  on  the  lower  Eand  of  the 
Island — Which  is  large  and  Well  timbered  With  Cot- 
ten  Wood — Heare  We  find  the  first  fresh  Sign  of 
bever  our  Corse  from  the  Hoop  Wood  trees  to  this 
place  is  N°  80  West — two  of  our  Horses  gave  out 
this  day  and  Ware  left — on  this  Island  the  Hunters 
killed  Some  turkeys  and  Seen  Some  more,  the  first 
We  Have  Seen  above  the  little  arkensaw — the  Wind 
Hard  all  day  from  the  N — W — 

44  Exactly  so — passing  Hartland,  seat  of  Kearney  Co. ,  and  con- 
tinuing 10  m.  N.  8o°  W.  to  camp  near  border  of  Kearney  and 
Hamilton  counties,  nearly  in  the  position  of  Kendall,  in  the  lat- 
ter county.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  440. 


34 


FROM  KANSAS  INTO  COLORADO. 


4th  Novr  1 82 1  Sunday — 
We  Steered  No  75  W  four  miles  to  [a  point]  of 
Sand  Hills  Washed  by  the  River  and  at  Six  miles  far- 
ther to  an  Island  Clothed  With  Willow  and  Cotten 
Wood — the  main  Chanel  on  on  the  North  Side  of  the 
Island  the  last  6  miles  our  Corse  Was  West 45 — and 
pased  over  one  point  of  Sand  Hills  and  one  of  gravle 
both  Washed  by  the  River  BufTelow  Scarce — two  tur- 
keys this  day — our  last  nights  In  Campment  appers 
the  first  Wintering  ground  We  Have  meet  With. 
We  pass  Some  old  Camps  and  Some  old  tent  poles — 
this  day  left  the  mule  the  [that]  gave  out  a  few  days 
ago  and  Was  braught  up — 

5th  novr  1 82 1  Monday 
We  set  out  Early  and  Steered  West  five  miles  to  a 
low  point  of  land  Washed  by  the  River  thence  South 
80  West  and  at  foure  miles  [further]  pased  the  beed 
of  a  large  Crick46  but  no  Watter  or  timber  in  sight 

45  Reading  4  -f-  6  -J-  6  =  16  m.  to-day,  and  the  last  course  W., 
we  should  bring  Fowler  past  Syracuse,  seat  of  Hamilton  Co.,  to 
the  vicinity  of  Coolidge,  and  thus  near  the  boundary  between 
Kansas  and  Colorado.  This  lap  seems  to  me  to  stretch  somewhat, 
but  such  advance  as  I  here  indicate  appears  to  be  required  to 
adjust  Fowler's  topography  beyond,  and  bring  him  correctly  to 
Purgatory  river  on  the  13th.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  441. 
Compare  also  date  of  June  11,  1822,  beyond. 

46  Apparently  that  now  known  as  Two  Butte  creek,  from  the 


CAMP  ABOVE  TWO  BUTTE  CREEK.  35 


the  great  quantitys  of  drift  Wood  all  along  its  Banks 
and  the  Hunters  [tell]  us  the  See  timber  a  few  miles 
up  it — at  three  miles  farther  makeing  twelve  miles  this 
day  We  Camped  on  an  Island  in  the  middle  of  the 
River — this  Island  is  better  Cloathed  With  timber 
Brush  green  grass  for  the  Horses  and  grape  vines 
than  any  We  Have  Seen  Heare  We  found  plenty  of 
grapes  that  are  good  the  first  We  Have  met  With  in 
[this]  part  of  the  Cuntry  the  River  Continu  full  of 
[islands]  the  one  We  are  on  is  long  and  is  a  good 
Wintering  ground  Some  Small  Connues  [canoes] 
may  be  maid  Heare 

6th  novr  1821 

determined  to  lay  by  on  act  of  Wood  and  the  Poor 
State  of  our  Horses — We  Have  all  Readey  lost  13 
Horses  and  two  mules  and  the  Remainder  Hardly  fitt 
for  use  We  are  Camped  in  a  pawnee  fort  Which  ap- 
peers  to  Have  been  used  about  two  Weakes  Since — 
We  Counted  11  tracks  of  Indians  Barfooded  in  the 
Sand  and  found  a  Woolf  that  Head  been  Shott  lying 
on  the  Sand  Bare — 

S.,  falling  in  nearly  opposite  Wild  Horse  or  Little  Sandy  creek 
from  the  N.,  a  mile  or  two  above  Hollys,  Prowers  Co.,  Colorado. 
Camp  3  m.  above  Two  Butte  creek  would  be  about  2  m.  short  of 
the  station  Adana,  on  the  A.  T.  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  See  Pike,  ed. 
of  1895,  p.  442. 


36 


BIG  SANDY  AND  WILLOW  CREEKS. 


7th  Novr  1 82 1 

We  Set  out  as  ushul  and  Steerd  N<°  80  West  twelve 
miles 47  to  a  Small  Island  near  the  middle  of  the  River 
We  find  this  day  that  there  is  more  gravle  and  less 
Sand  in  the  River  than  below  theres  much  more 
Watter  and  Cleareer  than  any  Wheare  below — the 
River  is  still  full  of  Islands — vast  Hords  of  Buffelow 
In  Sight — no  bever  We  See  old  Sign  of  Indeans  a 
great  many  Buffelow  being  killed  in  the  Summer — 
We  again  See  the  Sign  of  White  men  a  Head  of  us — 

8th  november  1821  thorsday 
We  Set  out  as  ushul  our  Corse  N  85  W  Crossing  to 
the  north  Side  of  the  River  at  three  miles  pased  the 
Beed  of  a  dry  Crick48  75  yds  Wide  Corse  [from  the] 
north  and  only  a  few  Scatering  trees  In  Sight  on  it — 
at  Six  miles  We  Crossed  the  River  on  act  of  a  Snow 
Storm  to  a  grove  of  trees  on  an  Island  in  the  South 
Side  and  Camped  for  the  night — this  Island  is  formed 
by  a  large  Crick49  80  yds  Wide  puting  In  on  the 

47  Past  Adana,  Granada,  and  Manville,  to  a  point  about  oppo- 
site Carlton,  Prowers  Co. 

48  This  large  dry  creek,  from  the  N.,  is  the  Big  Sandy,  which 
falls  in  about  the  distance  said  above  the  camp  which  was  on  the 
island  opposite  Carlton.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  443.  Some- 
where about  the  mouth  of  Big  Sandy  creek  is  one  of  the  locations 
of  the  shifty  Chouteau's  island  mentioned  on  p.  32. 

49  Willow  creek,  on  which  is  Lamar,  seat  of  Prowers  Co.  See 
Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  443. 


PROGRESS  IN  COLORADO. 


37 


South  Side  and  a  Slew  of  Watter  Runing  out  of  the 
River  in  to  this  Crick  forming  a  large  Island — there 
is  timber  In  Sight  up  this  Crick  and  large  quantitey  of 
drift  Wood  alonge  it  Banks — and  from  seeing  the 
Same  appeerence  of  drift  Wood  on  other  Cricks  below 
Comeing  from  the  South  We  Sopose  there  must  [be] 
timber  up  those  Streem  as  there  is  no  drift  Wood 
from  the  north — the  River  Banks  are  from  6  to  8 
fitt  High  and  the  Watter  much  [more]  plenty  than 
below  Buffelow  Plenty  and  all  traveling  fast  to  the 
north — 

9th  novr  1821  Friday 
Remained  in  Camp  on  acounpt  of  the  Cold  the 
Snow  about  ankel  deep  Sent  out  the  Hunters  the 
killed  2  Buffelow  Cows — the  River  is  Heare  deeper 
and  Cruked  and  Points  of  [timber]  in  the  bends  more 
plenty — 

10th  Novr  1 82 1 
We  Steered  S°  65  West  five  miles  to  a  point  of  tim- 
ber on  the  South  Side  of  the  River  Which  is  still  nar- 
row deep  and  Cruked  it  Bredth  is  from  150  to  200  yds 
Wide  and  deep  a  knof  for  Small  Boats  to  asend — 

nth  novr  1821  Sunday 
our  Corse  South  65  West  at  four  miles  pased  a 
point  of  High  Rocks  about  Half  a  mile  South  from 


38 


MUD  AND  CADDOA  CREEKS. 


the  River  from  this  Rock  the  Bluffs  or  Hills  Continu 
to  our  left — and  at  Eight  miles  Camped  at  the  mouth 
of  a  deep  muddey  Crick50  Heare  the  Bluffs  aproch 
the  River  on  both  Sides  and  are  much  Higher  and 
Steep  as  Well  as  more  Rockey  than  below — Heare  is 
much  old  Sign  of  Indeans  many  Piles  of  Rock  are 
Raised  by  them  on  the  bluffs — one  fatt  Buck  killed 
this  day — there  are  some  Bever  Heare — 

1 2th  Novr  1 82 1  monday 
We  set  out  Early  and  to  Enable  us  to  Cross  the 
[Mud]  Crick  With  the  Horses  We  maid  a  Bridge  of 
Brush  and  flags  Which  bore  them  over  With  Safty 
and  Steered  South  65  West  Eight  miles  to  the  Point 
of  a  Ridge  Bound  With  Rocks  and  Washed  by  the 
River — there  is  two  mounds  Covered  With  Rocks 
about  300  yds  to  the  South  of  Camp  and  about  Half  a 
mile  a  part 51  We  this  day  Crossed  a  Small  [Caddoa] 

50  Present  name  the  same — Mud  or  Muddy  creek,  nearly  half- 
way between  Prowers,  Bent  Co.,  and  Caddoa  creek.  See  Pike, 
ed.  of  1895,  p.  443. 

51  A  statement  which  serves  to  fix  camp  with  perfect  pre- 
cision. The  two  mounds  said  are  both  between  one  and  two 
miles  due  W.  of  Caddoa,  and  just  the  distance  said  W.  of  Caddoa 
creek.  These  isolated  elevations  appear  in  due  form  on  the  U.  S. 
Geological  Survey  map  of  Colorado,  Lamar  sheet,  near  lower 
left-hand  corner.  The  railroad  cuts  between  the  river  and  these 
bluffs,  but  the  wagon  road  rises  over  them,  back  of  their  tops. 
See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  443. 


RULE  CREEK — MOUNTAINS  SIGHTED.  39 


Crick  at  about  four  miles  back  from  Camp — and 
pased  over  Several  Ridges  the  points  of  Which  But- 
ted a  gainst  the  River  With  progecting  Rocks  of  the 
Sand  Stone  kind — the  [re]  We  Seen  Some  Peaces  of 
marble — the  River  Bottoms  are  about  Half  a  mile 
Wide  and  and  is  offen  Crosed  from  one  Side  to  the 
other  by  the  River  Which  is  very  Cruked  and  both 
Sides  of  the  bottom  or  valley  bound  With  the  Bluffs 
and  Rocks  Buffelow  plenty  killed  3  Cows  and  one 
deer  this  day — 

We  this  day  Sopose  We  Seen  the  mountains  for 
the  first  time  tho  We  Have  long  looked  for  them 
the  Hills  or  Bluffs  on  the  North  Side  are  High  Being 
two  bluffs  one  on  the  top  of  the  other  and  about  five 
miles  apart 52 

13th  novr  1 82 1  tusday 
.  Went  to  the  Highest  of  the  mounds  near  our  Camp 
and  took  the  bareing  of  the  Soposed  mountain 
Which  Stud  at  north  80  West  all  So  of  the  River 
Which  is  West  We  then  proceded  on  2\  miles  to  a 
Small  Crick  53  Crosed  it  and  asended  a  gradual  Rise 
for  about  three  miles  to  the  Highest  ground  in  the 

52  Two  special  elevations  across  the  river,  directly  in  line  from 
camp,  are  respectively  3975  and  4200  feet  high,  and  their  sum- 
mits just  about  5  m.  apart. 

53  Present  Rule  creek,  quite  at  the  distance  said  from  the  twin 
bluffs  at  camp. 


40 


THE  SPANISH  PEAKS  IN  VIEW. 


nibourhood — Wheare  We  Head  a  full  vew  of  the 
mountains  this  must  be  the  place  Whare  Pike  first 
discovered  the  mountains  Heare  I  took  the  bareing" 
of  two  that  Ware  the  Highest 54  the  longest  South 
71  W — the  other  Which  appeered  like  a  point  South 

54  Las  Cumbres  Espanolas — the  celebrated  Spanish  Peaks. 
This  is  the  place  where,  on  the  15th  of  Nov.,  1806,  Pike's  party- 
gave  "  three  cheers  to  the  Mexican  mountains."  His  map  bears 
the  legend:  "  Here  the  Mountains  are  first  seen."  It  is  a  curious 
fact,  now  forgotten  by  most  persons,  that  the  Spanish  Peaks 
were  called  and  supposed  to  be  Pike's  Peak  for  some  time — dur- 
ing the  years  that  Pike's  Peak  was  called  James'  Peak.  Thus, 
Thomas  J.  Farnham,  writing  of  1839  in  his  Travels,  New  York, 
1843,  p.  41,  says:  "  Pike's  peak  in  the  sout/iwest,  and  James'  peak 
in  the  northwest,  at  sunset  showed  their  hoary  heads  above  the 
clouds  that  hung  around  them. "  Again,  ibid. ,  p.  42 :  "  Sixty  miles 
east  of  these  mountains  [in  Colorado  and  New  Mexico],  and  50 
south  of  the  Arkansas,  stands,  isolated  on  the  plain,  Pike's  peak, 
and  the  lesser  ones  that  cluster  around  it  " — here  also  thus  dis- 
tinguishing it  from  James'  Peak,  north  of  the  Arkansaw.  As  I 
have  said  in  my  edition  of  Pike,  p.  457,  where  I  discuss  the  first 
application  of  Pike's  name  to  the  peak  which  now  bears  it,  the 
date  has  never  been  exactly  ascertained;  and  here  in  Farnham 
we  have  the  Spanish  Peaks  called  by  Pike's  name  so  late  as  1839. 
I  suppose  it  will  be  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to  trace  the  proper 
appellation  of  Pike's  Peak  back  of  Fremont's  expedition  of  1843- 
44.  At  the  time  I  penned  my  note  on  the  subject  I  did  not 
know  that  the  misapplication  of  Pike's  name  to  the  Spanish 
Peaks  had  ever  been  current,  and  my  reference  to  the  verbal  use 
of  the  term  in  the  30's  may  have  had  no  other  foundation.  Pike's 
Peak  having  been  first  surmounted  by  Dr.  Edwin  James  and  his 
men,  at  4  p.  m.,  July  14,  1820,  was  formally  named  James'  Peak 
in  Long,  ii,  1823,  p.  45,  from  Long's  MS.  notes  of  July  15,  1820. 


CAMP  ON  PURGATORY  RIVER. 


41 


75  West — nither  of  those  are  the  mountain  Seen  this 
morning — on  looking  forward  We  Seen  a  Branch 
Puting  in  from  the  South  Side  Which  We  Sopose  to 
be  Pikes  first  forke  55  and  make  for  it — Crossed  and 
Camped  in  a  grove  of  Bushes  and  timber  about  two 
miles  up  it  from  the  River  We  maid  Eleven  miles 
West  this  day — We  Stoped  Heare  about  one  oclock 
and  Sent  back  for  one  Hors  that  Was  not  able  to  keep 
up — We  Heare  found  some  grapes  among  the  brush 
— While  Some  Ware  Hunting  and  others  Cooking 
Some  Picking  grapes  a  gun  Was  fyered  off  and  the 
Cry  of  a  White  Bare  56  Was  Raised  We  Ware  all 
armed  in  an  Instent  and  Each  man  Run  His  own  Cors 
to  look  for  the  desperet  anemel — the  Brush  in  Which 
We  Camped  Contained  from  10  to  20  acors  Into 
Which  the  Bare  Head  [bear  had]  Run  for  Shelter 
find[ing]  Him  Self  Surrounded  on  all  Sides — threw 

55  Fowler's  supposition  is  correct — this  is  Pike's  "  1st  Fork  "  of 
the  Arkansaw,  Spanish  Rio  Purgatorio  and  Rio  de  las  Animas 
Perdidas,  French  Riviere  Purgatoire,  English  Purgatory  river, 
often  corrupted  into  Picket-wire,  and  also  known  as  Las  Ani- 
mas river.  It  enters  the  Arkansaw  from  the  S.  in  long.  1030 
10'  W.,  midway  between  Fort  Lyon  (across  the  main  stream)  and 
the  town  of  Las  Animas,  Bent  Co.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  445. 

Fowler  names  Purgatory  river  "  White  Bair  crick  "  on  June  6, 
1822,  beyond,  from  the  tragic  incident  now  about  to  be  narrated. 

66  Grizzly  bear,  Ursus  horribilis.  Lewis  Dawson  may  not 
have  been  the  first  American  citizen  to  die  and  be  buried  in 
present  Colorado,  but  I  have  found  no  such  fact  of  earlier  date. 


42 


ATTACKED  BY  A  GRIZZLY  BEAR. 


this  Conl  glann  With  four  others  atemted  to  Run 
But  the  Bare  being  In  their  Way  and  lay  Close  in  the 
brush  undiscovered  till  the  Ware  With  in  a  few  feet 
of  it — When  it  Sprung  up  and  Caught  Lewis  doson 
and  Pulled  Him  down  In  an  Instent  Conl  glanns 
gun  mised  fyer  or  He  Wold  Have  Releved  the  man 
But  a  large  Slut  Which  belongs  to  the  Party  atacted 
the  Bare  With  such  fury  that  it  left  the  man  and  per- 
sued  Her  a  few  steps  in  Which  time  the  man  got  up 
and  Run  a  few  steps  but  Was  overtaken  by  the  bare 
When  the  Conl  maid  a  second  atempt  to  shoot  but 
His  [gun]  mised  fyer  again  and  the  Slut  as  before 
Releved  the  man  Who  Run  as  before — but  Was  Son 
again  in  the  grasp  of  the  Bare  Who  Semed  Intent 
on  His  distruction — the  Conl  again  Run  Close  up  and 
as  before  His  gun  Wold  not  go  off  the  Slut  makeing 
an  other  atack  and  Releveing  the  man — the  Conl  now 
be  Came  alarmed  lest  the  Bare  Wold  pusue  Him  and 
Run  up  Stooping  tree — and  after  Him  the  Wounded 
man  and  Was  followed  by  the  Bare  and  thus  the  Ware 
all  three  up  one  tree — but  a  tree  standing  in  Rich 
[reach]  the  Conl  steped  on  that  and  let  the  man  and 
Bare  pas  till  the  Bare  Caught  Him  [Dawson]  by  one 
leg  and  drew  Him  back  wards  down  the  tree. 
While  this  Was  doing  the  Conl  Sharpened  His  flint 
Primed  His  gun  and  Shot  the  Bare  down  While  pull- 
ing the  man  by  the  leg  be  fore  any  of  the  party  arived 


LEWIS  DAWSON  FATALLY  INJURED.  43 


to  Releve  Him — but  the  Bare  Soon  Rose  again  but 
Was  Shot  by  several  other  [men]  Wo  Head  [who 
had]  got  up  to  the  place  of  action — it  Is  to  be  Re- 
marked that  the  other  three  men  With  Him  Run  off 
— and  the  Brush  Was  so  thick  that  those  on  the  out 
Side  Ware  Som  time  geting  threw — 

I  Was  my  Self  down  the  Crick  below  the  brush  and 
Heard  the  dredfull  Screems  of  man  in  the  Clutches 
of  the  Bare — the  yelping  of  the  Slut  and  the  Hollow- 
ing of  the  men  to  Run  in  Run  in  the  man  Will  be 
killed  and  noing  the  distance  So  grate  that  I  Cold  not 
get  there  in  time  to  Save  the  man  So  that  it  Is  much 
Easeer  to  Emagen  my  feellings  than  discribe  them  but 
before  I  got  to  the  place  of  action  the  Bare  Was 
killed  and  [I]  met  the  Wounded  man  with  Robert 
Fowler  and  one  or  two  more  asisting  Him  to  Camp 
Where  His  Wounds  Ware  Examined — it  appeers  His 
Head  Was  In  the  Bares  mouth  at  least  twice — and 
that  When  the  monster  give  the  Crush  that  Was  to 
mash  the  mans  Head  it  being  two  large  for  the  Span 
of  His  mouth  the  Head  Sliped  out  only  the  teeth 
Cutting  the  Skin  to  the  bone  Where  Ever  the  tuched 
it — so  that  the  Skin  of  the  Head  Was  Cut  from  about 
the  Ears  to  the  top  in  Several  derections — all  of 
Which  Wounds  Ware  Sewed  up  as  Well  as  Cold  be 
don  by  men  In  our  Situation  Haveing  no  Surgen  nor 
Surgical  Instruments — the  man  Still  Retained  His 


44 


DEATH  OF  LEWIS  DAWSON. 


under  Standing  but  Said  I  am  killed  that  I  Heard  my 
Skull  Brake — but  We  Ware  Willing  to  beleve  He 
Was  mistaken — as  He  Spoke  Chearfully  on  the  Sub- 
gect  till  In  the  after  noon  of  the  second  day  When  He 
began  to  be  Restless  and  Some  What  delereous — and 
on  examening  a  Hole  in  the  upper  part  of  His  Wright 
temple  Which  We  beleved  only  Skin  deep  We  found 
the  Brains  Workeing  out — We  then  Soposed  that  He 
did  Heare  His  Scull  Brake  He  lived  till  a  little  be- 
fore day  on  the  third  day  after  being  Wounded — all 
Which  time  We  lay  at  Camp  and  Buried  Him  as  Well 
as  our  meens  Wold  admit  Emedetely  after  the  fattal 
axcident  and  Haveing  done  all  We  Cold  for  the 
Wounded  man  We  turned  our  atention  [to]  the 
Bare  and  found  Him  a  large  fatt  anemel  We  Skined 
Him  but  found  the  Smell  of  a  polcat  so  Strong  that 
We  Cold  not  Eat  the  meat — on  examening  His 
mouth  We  found  that  three  of  His  teeth  Ware  broken 
off  near  the  gums  Which  We  Sopose  Was  the  Caus 
of  His  not  killing  the  man  at  the  first  Bite — and  the 
one  not  Broke  to  be  the  Caus  of  the  Hole  in  the 
Right  [temple]  Which  killed  the  man  at  last — the 
Hunters  killed  two  deer  Cased  the  Skins  for  Baggs 
We  dryed  out  the  Bares  oil  and  Caryed  it  with  us  the 
Skin  Was  all  so  taken  Care  of — 


BEARINGS  OF  MOUNTAINS. 


45 


14th  novembr  1821 

We  lay  in  Camp  takeing  Care  of  the  Wounded 
man  and  takeing  the  Bareing  of  the  the  three  princi- 
ple points  of  the  mountains  57  as  the  appeer — 

the  first  mountain  or  grand  Peek  Bares  N  75  W — 

the  Second  South  75  No  W 

South  Eand  of  same  S°  75  W 

3rd  mountain  S  0  70  W — 

South  EandS°  69  W— 

there  is  on  this  forke  a  Continuation  of  timber  and 
Brush  the  princeple  trees  are  Cotten  Wood  With 
Some  Boxelder  and  Some  Small  Black  locust 

15th  all  posible  Care  Was  taken  of  the  Wounded 
man  for  Which  purpose  We  lay  in  Camp 

1 6th  the  unfortnet  man  died  at  day  Brake —  and 
Was  Berred  near  the  Bank  With  a  Strong  Pen  of  logs 
over  Him  to  prevent  the  Bares  or  Wolves  from 

57  The  first  of  these  is  Pike's  Peak  ;  the  second  and  third  are  the 
two  Spanish  Peaks.  Besides  the  names  of  these  latter  which  I 
have  noted  on  p.  40,  they  have  also  been  known  as  Las  Dos  Her- 
manas — The  Two  Sisters;  and  when  I  was  in  that  country  I  some- 
times heard  the  French  names  Les  Tetons  and  Les  Mamelles. 
The  Ute  Indian  name,  Wahtoyah,  meaning  Twins,  is  taken  by 
Lewis  H.  Garrard  as  the  major  title  of  his  book,  otherwise  The 
Taos  Trail,  etc.,  Cincinnati,  1850 — a  boyish  piece  of  work,  but 
the  readable  work  of  a  very  bright  boy,  who  has  much  to  say 
from  personal  observation  of  Taos,  whither  Fowler  is  bound. 
He  is  well  worth  looking  up  in  the  present  connection. 


46         AUCTION  SALE  OF  DAWSON'S  EFFECTS. 

Scraching  Him  up — this  Is  the  [first]  anemel  of  the 
kind  We  Have  met  With — 

Heare  Conl  glann  Haveing  the  Command  of  the 
party  acted  as  the  adminestrater  and  ordered  the  dead 
mans  property  Sold  to  the  Highest  bidder — and  Was 
Sold  as  followes  one  Short  Riffel  and  papetis  [?]  to 
george  Duglass    $15.00 


the  Hole  amting  thirty  three  dollrs  Which  Each  man 
Has  to  act  [account]  With  Conl  glann  for  What  He 
purchased — 

the  timber  on  this  fork  is  mostly  Cotten  Wood 
Some  Boxelder  and  Some  Small  Black  locust — the 
Bottoms  are  fine  and  large — With  great  droves  of 
Elk  and  Buffelow  and  Sign  of  more  of  the  White 
Bare — there  are  all  So  Wild  Horses  deer  and  Caberey 
the  trees  on  the  main  River  are  Small  but  Some  of 
those  on  the  fork  are  large  Enof  to  mak  a  Connue — 
the  Watter  In  the  fork  is  Sofecient  to  turn  a  large 


2.00 


175 


$33  75 


bent's  several  forts  noted. 


47 


Sett  [of]  mills  at  this  dry  Season  and  Heare  is  timber 
for  a  Small  Settlement — Stone  In  the  Bluffs  are  In 
abondance  for  Building  and  fenceing — after  Settleing 
all  things  We  moved  up  the  River  South  73  West  12 
miles  58  to  a  Small  Bottom  Covered  With  trees — on 
the  South  Side  of  the  River — Haveing  pased  one 

58  Vicinity  of  Robinson,  about  on  the  boundary  between  Bent 
and  Otero  counties,  and  near  the  site  of  Bent's  fort,  which  was  a 
noted  place  for  many  years.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  446,  447, 
and  to  authorities  there  cited  for  description  add  Farnham, 
Travels,  1843,  chap,  iv,  beginning  p.  34.  Fort  William  was  an 
alternative  name  of  the  same  establishment — so  called  after  one 
of  the  Canadian-French  Bent  brothers,  who  were  William, 
George,  Robert,  and  Charles.  In  1826  three  of  them,  with  Ceran 
St.  Vrain,  built  a  rude  stockade  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Arkansaw 
above  Pueblo — perhaps  halfway  up  to  Canon  City.  In  1828 
they  moved  down  below  Pueblo,  and  began  the  erection  of  the 
permanent  structure  called  Fort  William,  which  was  long  better 
known  as  Bent's  "  old "  Fort.  It  existed  till  1852,  when  Col. 
Wm.  Bent  destroyed  it  with  fire  and  gunpowder.  He  immedi- 
ately selected  a  new  site  lower  down  the  Arkansaw,  on  the  same 
(N.)  side,  in  the  well-known  locality  of  the  Big  Timbers,  where 
he  erected  Bent's  "  new  "  fort  in  1853,  and  used  it  as  a  trading- 
post  till  1859,  when  it  was  leased  to  the  Government ;  Col.  Bent 
moving  to  a  point  just  above  Purgatory  river  for  the  winter  of 
1859-60.  Next  spring  Bent's  place  became  Fort  Wise,  so  named 
for  the  Governor  of  Virginia,  but  in  1861  this  name  was  changed 
to  Fort  Lyon,  in  honor  of  Gen.  Nathaniel  Lyon,  who  was  killed  at 
the  battle  of  Wilson's  creek,  Mo.,  Aug.  10,  1861.  In  the  spring  of 
1866  the  river  undermined  this  post,  and  it  was  moved  to  a  point 
20  m.  lower  down,  though  the  old  post  continued  to  be  used  as  a 
stage  station  by  Barlow,  Sanderson  and  Co. 


48 


ADOBE  AND  HORSE  CREEKS. 


Branch59  at  Six  miles  and  one59  at  nine  miles  boath  on 
the  north  Side  of  the  River — and  opeset  the  first  the 
River  bore  about  Six  miles  to  our  Right — from  our 
Camp  Heare  We  took  the  bareing  of  the  mountains 
— ist  N-°  72  W — 2nd  S  76  W  3rd  S°  70  W — at  this 
Camp  on  the  Bluffs  Was  the  appeerance  of  lead  But 
We  Head  no  time  to  Examen 

17th  novr  1 82 1  Satterday 
I  Went  on  South  5  miles  to  a  High  mound  and 
took  the  Bareing  of  the  mountains  as  followes  ist 
the  grand  Peek  north  70  W — 2nd  not  to  be  Seen  3rd 
S°  71  W  4th  S°  49  W — our  Corse  from  Camp  up  the 
River  Was  South  50  West  twelve  miles  60  to  Whare 
the  River  Bends  more  to  the  West  and  Some  deep 
gutters  Washed  down  the  Bank  and  the  Hills  aproch 
the  River — thence  S°  72  W.  three  miles  to  Wheare 
the  River  aproch  the  Hills  again  We  pased  one  Small 
Crick  at  about  2  miles  be  low  Camp  and  the  other 
about  Half  mile  the  last  about  30  yds  Wide  but  no 
Watter  Running  and  no  timber  In  Sight — the  River 
Bottoms  are  more  narrow  than  for  two  days  past — no 
Buffelow  or  turkeys  there  is  Some  deer  and  Sign  of 
the  White  Bare  one  Hors  gave  out  this  day  and  Was 
left — the  timber  is  more  plenty  in  the  Bottoms. 

59  Adobe  and  Horse  creeks.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  446. 
60,|At  or  near  La  Junta,  seat  of  Otero  Co.,  where  the  Arkansaw 
bends  a  little  S.  of  lat.  380  N.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  447. 


CROOKED  AND  TIMPAS  CREEKS. 


49 


Sunday  18th  Novr  1821 

Continued  up  on  the  South  Side  of  the  River  and 
at  about  two  miles  Crossed  a  dry  Branch  61  and  at 
foure  miles  a  deep  Branch  62  with  Running  W atter  on 
Which  there  Ware  several  Bever  dams  With  fresh 
sign  of  Bever  the  Branch  about  Eight  Steps  Wide 
at  ten  miles  pased  Close  to  a  bend  of  the  River 
and  at  Eighteen  miles  Camped 63  in  a  low  Bot- 
tom and  drove  the  Horses  aCross  the  River 
for  grass  there  being  none  on  Wheare  We 
Camped  We  find  the  Bottoms  Widen  from  4  to  8 
miles  the  Hills  much  lower  and  the  [ground]  more 
leavle  than  for  Several  days  past  the  Buffelow  appers 
to  Have  left  this  section  of  the  Cuntry  as  We  Seen 
but  one  this  day  an  old  Bull  With  one  leg  Broken 
We  Soposed  by  the  Indeans — and  that  the  Have 
drove  the  Buffelow  all  off — as  their  Sign  is  going  to 
the  South 

19th  nov  1 82 1  monday 
took  the  Bareing  of  the  mountains  from  Camp  this 
morning  1st  north  67  W  2nd  north  Eand  S  88  W 

61  Present  Crooked  creek,  a  little  above  La  Junta.  See  Pike, 
ed.  of  1895,  p.  447. 

62  Timpas  creek,  about  midway  between  La  Junta  and  Rocky 
Ford,  Otero  Co.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  448. 

63  In  the  wide  low  bottom  some  4  or  5  m.  below  Catlin,  Otero 
Co.,  and  about  twice  that  distance  short  of  the  Apishapa  river. 
See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  448. 


APISHAPA  RIVER. 


South  Eand  S°  72  W  3rd  S°  60  W—  4th  S<°  39  W  to 
the  Highest  Peek  ther  appeers  a  longe  Ridge  to 
Contnue  from  the  South  and  a  Ridge  Runs  north 
from  the  High  Peeke — We  Steered  West  up  the  River 
and  at  10  miles  Crosed  a  dry  forke  64  of  the  River 
80  yds  Wide  but  dry  at  present  at  fifteen  miles 
Camped  in  lott  of  woods  on  the  River  Bank 
Haveing  at  about  11  oclock  Seen  a  large  Smoke 
ahead  and  believing  it  proceded  from  the  Indeans  fyer 
We  Halted  to  look  out  for  them — and  in  a  few  min- 
ets  two  of  our  men  Came  in  Company  With  one  In- 
dean — and  in  about  Half  an  Hour  there  Was  between 
30  and  50  Came  Rideing  at  full  Speed  With  all  their 
Weapens  of  [up]  in  a  florish  as  tho  the  Ware  Charge- 
ing  uppon  an  Enemey  but  on  their  near  aproch  the 
most  frendly  disposition  appereed  in  all  their  actions 
as  Well  [as]  gusters — by  this  time  We  Hed  Some 
meat  Cooked  of  Which  the  Willingly  purtuck  but 
Spareingly — as  it  after  Wards  appeered  the  Head 
plenty  at  their  Camp  and  Eat  With  [us]  out  of  pure 
frendship — amongst  party  Was  the  princeple  Cheef 
of  the  Kiaways  for  these  Ware  of  that  nation — the 
Cheef  With  three  others  Stayed  With  us  all  night  the 
others  Returned  to  their  Camp  about  Sundown 

^Apishapa  river,  now  crossed  by  the  railroad  4^  m.  above  the 
station  Catlin,  already  named.  Camp  said  to  be  5  m.  above  this 
river.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  448. 


CAMPED  WITH  KIOWAS. 


51 


20th  novmbr  1821  tusday 

Collected  our  Horses  Early — by  Which  time  a  great 
nomber  of  the  Indeans  arived  from  Camp  and  moved 
up  with  [us]  and  crossed  over  the  River  Which 
Was  fordable  but  the  Watter  Cold  and  the  Ice  Run- 
ing  a  little — our  Horses  Ware  so  loded  that  our  men 
Ware  all  on  futt  but  the  Indeans  took  them  behind 
them  on  their  Horses  and  Carryed  them  over  the 
River — from  our  Camp  to  the  Indeans  was  about 
three  miles  West — 65 

Heare  the  Cheef  gave  up  one  of  His  lodges  for  the 
purpose  of  Store  [ing]  the  goods — and  took  posesion 
and  Charge  of  all  our  Horses  threw  the  Hole  of  this 
day  the  Indeans  Continu  to  arive  and  Set  up  their 
lodges — So  that  by  night  We  Ware  a  large  town  Con- 
taining up  Wards  two  Honderd  Houses  Well  filled 
With  men  Wemon  and  Children — With  a  great 
nombr  of  dogs  and  Horses  So  that  the  Hole  Cuntry  to 
a  great  distance  Was  Coverd — this  Scenes  Was  new 
to  us  and  the  more  So  after  our  long  Jurney  Seeing 
no  persons  but  our  Selves — the  Indeans  Ware  frendly 
takeing  us  to  the  lodges  of  their  great  men  and  all 
Ways  Seting  Some  meat  for  us  to  Eat.  tho  Some 

65  This  Indian  camp,  of  which  we  shall  hear  more,  appears 
from  the  indications  given  to  have  been  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
Arkansaw,  a  little  over  the  border  of  Otero  Co,  about  half 
way  between  Fowler's  last  camp  and  Nepesta,  Pueblo  Co. 


52 


EATING— SMOKING— TRADING. 


times  Boiled  Corn  Beens  or  mush  Which  arteckels 
the  precured  from  the  Spanyards 

Wensday  21st  nov  1821 

lay  in  Camp  all  day  Eating  and  Smokeing  With  the 
Indeans — and  took  the  Bareing  of  the  mountains 
from  a  point  one  Half  mile  north  of  our  Camp — High 
Peak  N  61  W  South  Eand  of  Same  mountain  N  82 
W  Heare  a  new  mountain  appeers  or  is  a  Ridge  in  the 
forkes  of  the  River  North  Eand  N°  84  W  South  Eand 
N  87  W — N  0  2  of  the  first  mountains  North  Eand 
S°  87  W  Highest  Point  S°  45  W— Heare  the  moun- 
tain takes  a  more  Westwardly  Corse  and  Continues  a 
broken  Ridge  to  a  High  point  or  Ridge  and  Stands 
S°  42  W — and  falling  a  little  lower  and  Continues  to 
the  forth  mountains  or  double  Peekes — Which  Stands 
thus  4th  S°  27  W  5th  S°  25  West  from  this  point 
We  See  no  more  of  the  mountains  to  the  South  We 
See  large  parteys  of  Indeans  Comeing  in  threw  the 
day  and  Seting  up  their  Houses  or  lodges — 

22nd  nov  1821 — 

Remained  in  Camp  all  day  Holding  Counsels  Eat- 
ing and  Smokeing  and  traiding  a  little  With 
Indans — 

the  snow  Has  now  Increeced  to  about  10  Inches 
deep  and  the  Wind  Extreemly  Cold  the  River  frosen 
up  Close  the  Ice  to  a  great  thickness — and  Heare  in 


AND  COMANCHES  CAME  TOO. 


53 


the  Coldest  mornings  you  might  see  Several  Hun- 
dred Children  Naked — Running  and  playin  on  the 
Ice — Without  the  least  appeerence  of  Suffering  from 
the  Cold — the  Highatans  66  amounting  to  about  350 
lodges  arived  this  day  and  Camped  With  the  others 
We  are  now  Incresed  to  a  cettey — 

friday  23rd  nov  1821 — 

this  morning  a  Councel  Was  hild  amongst  the 
Cheefs  of  both  the  nations  and  Conl  glann  With  his 
Interpreter  Was  Sent  for — and  Was  told  by  the  Ietan 
Cheef  that  the  Ware  Readey  to  Receve  the  goods  in 
His  Posesion  that  His  father  the  Presedent  Had  Sent 
them — But  When  He  Was  told  that  there  Was  no 
Such  goods  He  Became  in  a  great  Pashion  and  told 
the  Conl  that  He  Was  a  Iyer  and  a  theef  and  that  He 
Head  Stolen  the  goods  from  His  farther67  and  that  He 
the  Cheef — Wold  take  the  goods  and  Segnefyed  that 
He  Wold  kill  the  Conl  and  His  men  too  upon  Which 
the  Conl  and  His  Inturpreter  With  drew — the  Cheefs 
of  both  nations  Remaned  in  Counsel  all  day — and  our 
Setuation  Was  not  of  the  most  plesent  nature,  the 
Kiaways  Ware  our  frends  But  the  others  Ware  the 
most  numerous — the  former  Clames  us  their  property 
and  frens  But  the  later  We  aprehend  intend  to  use 

66  Ietans— Comanches. 

81  James  Monroe,  then  President  of  the  United  States. 


54  LIKEWISE  ARAPAHOES. 

force  and  in  this  Setuation  We  Remained  all  day — 
the  young  Warriors  Crouded  Round  us  so  that  We 
Cold  Scarcly  Stir — about  Sun  down  a  tall  Indean 
Came  Runing  threw  the  Camp  Calling  out — me 
arapaho  Cheef  White  mans  mine  and  Shakeing  Hands 
With  us  as  fast  as  poseble  asked  for  the  White  man 
Captain  and  on  being  Shoon  In  a  lodge  Wheare  Conl 
glann  With  the  Inturpreter  Was — He  Rushed  in — 
but  Was  out  In  an  Instant  thumping  His  brest  With 
His  fist  saying  White  man  mine  arapoho  Plenty 
Pointing  the  Way  He  Came — from  [which]  We  soon 
understood  that  the  Hole  nation  Ware  at  Hand  and 
that  We  Head  nothing  to  dred  from  the  Highatans — 
Who  began  to  disappeer  from  about  us — and  from 
that  time  We  felt  In  Purfect  Securety  Haveing  two 
out  of  three  of  the  nation  In  our  favour  and  part  of  the 
3rd  our  frends — but  the  are  all  Sobordenet  to  their 
Cheefs — 

Satterday  24th  november  1821 
a  nomber  of  Cheefs  of  other  nations  arive  In  Camp 
■ — thing  Ware  [things  wore]  a  better  appeerence — We 
Sopose  there  Is  now  about  350  lodges — Some  little 
traid  for  Buffelow  Roabs  for  the  benefit  of  the  Hands 
on  our  arivel  at  this  Camp  there  Was  about  forty 
lodges  of  Indeans — Kiawas  and  Padducas  the  Con- 
tinu  to  Increes  and  last  night  on  Counting  them  over 


FOUR  HUNDRED  LODGES  ALTOGETHER.  55 

find  now  four  Hunderd  of  the  following  nations — 
Ietans  — Arrapohoes  — Kiawa  Padduce  —  Cheans  — 
Snakes — the  Ietan  the  most  numerous  and  the  most 
Disperete  the  Arrapohoes  the  Best  and  most  Sivvel 
to  the  White  men  Habits — but  Heare  We  find  some 
diffeculty  in  Councl  With  So  many  Indeans — and  no 
Inturpreter  But  Mr  Roy — He  Spoke  Some  Pane  and 
[in]  that  language  our  Councils  Ware  Held — the  In- 
deans are  Sartainly  Ignorent  of  the  Ways  or  Customs 
of  the  White  man  and  Have  less  Capasety  to  larn 
then  any  Indeans  I  Have  yet  Seen — the  Have  many 
Wants  but  no  meens  of  Supplying  them — Haveing 
nothing  to  traid  but  Horses  and  them  We  do  not 
Want — We  have  found  amongest  them  about  20 
Bever  only  the  Early  Habits  of  those  Indeans  Pre- 
cludes them  from  makeing  Bever  Hunters  as  the 
Cuntry  Which  the  In  Habet  Contains  but  few — and 
the  Indeans  Hunt  the  Buffelow 

Sunday  25th  novem  1821 
We  found  Withe  the  Ietans  a  Spanish  Prisnor 
Whome  With  great  difeculty  We  purchased  yester- 
day With  $150  in  goods  and  He  In  Joyed  one  night 
of  liberty  a  Hapey  Chaing  from  that  of  a  Slave  to  an 
Indean — but  unfortnetly — at  day  light  this  morn- 
ing the  goods  Ware  Returned  and  the  Prisnor 
taken   back   to    His   formor   master   again — but 


56  SPANISH  PRISONER— PUEBLO  INDIANS. 

We  Will  Spair  no  means  in  our  power  [to] 
Releve  Him  again  and  Send  Him  out  of  their 
Reech  this  man  is  from  the  Southern  Provence 
near  St  Antoni 68  With  Which  the  Indeans  are 
at  War — tho  at  Peece  With  new  maxeco  and  the 
Spanish  in  Habetance  there — We  Have  been  viseted 
by  Some  of  the  Spanish  Indeans  from  maxeco  the  live 
in  the  vilege  of  Tows  69 — its  Six  days  Easey  travel 
from  Heare — the  are  all  Catholicks  the  Indeans  In- 
form us  that  there  are  White  men  near  the  great 
[Pike's]  Peak  of  the  mountain  on  the  River  Piatt — 
and  three  days  Hard  travel  from  this  place — 

on  the  night  of  the  23rd  a  Snow  fell  about  one  foot 
deep  and  the  Weather  is  now  Cold  the  River  frosen 
up  the  Ice  a  great  thickness  and  the  Indean  Children 
that  is  able  to  walk  and  up  to  tall  boys  are  out  on  the 
Ice  by  day  light  and  all  as  naked  as  the  Came  to  the 
World  Heare  the  are  at  all  kinds  of  Sport  Which  their 
Setuation  Will  admit  and  all  tho  the  frost  is  very  se- 
veer  the  apper  quite  Warm  and  a  lively  as  I  Heave 
Ever  Seen  Children  In  mid  Summer  I  am  shure  that 
We  Have  Seen  more  than  one  thousand  of  these  Chil- 
dren on  the  Ice  at  one  time  and  Some  that  Ware  too 
young  to  Walk  Ware  taken  by  the  larger  ones  and 
Soot  on  a  pece  of  skin  on  the  Ice  and  In  this  Setua- 

68  San  Antonio,  Tex. 
Pueblo  de  Taos,  N.  M. 


CHILDREN  ON  ICE — INDIANS  AT  WAR.  57 

tion  kick  its  [legs]  Round  and  Hollow  and  laff  at 
those  Round  it  at  play — I  have  no  doupt  but  that  to 
take  one  of  our  White  Children  and  Put  it  In  Such 
Cold  Weather  in  that  Setuation  it  Cold  not  live  Half 
an  Hour  on  the  23rd  four  Ietan  Indeans  arrive  With 
the  news  of  Peace  being  maid  With  the  osages  by  the 
Big  Cheefs  below — 

five  days  before  our  arival  at  this  place  a  battle 
Was  faught  Near  the  mountains  betwen  those  Inde- 
ans and  the  Crows  in  which  the  formor  lost  nine  men 
and  the  latter  fifteen — amongest  the  arrapohoes  In 
this  Ingagement  there  Was  one  young  Warear  that 
about  two  years  ago  Was  Shot  threw  the  boddey  and 
all  the  Skin  taken  off  His  Head  down  to  His  Ears  for 
a  scelp — and  in  the  last  battle  Was  Shot  threw  one 
of  His  feet  Which  Is  now  getting  Well — and  on  this 
[occasion]  an  alarm  Was  Raised  of  a  War  party 
apoching  Camp  When  this  man  With  His  father 
Was  amongst  the  foremost  on  Hors  back  to  meet 
danger — but  the  alarm  Was  With  [out]  foundation 
and  all  Returned  to  Camp  With  [out]  a  fight 

the  Kiawa  Cheef  Reported  to  us  that  He  Head  ben 
In  Council  all  day  on  the  23rd  With  the  Ietan  Who 
proposed  to  Him  to  Join  In  a  War  against  osages  and 
the  White  men — to  Which  He  disagread — dureing 
the  Hole  of  that  day  the  Ietan  manefested  a  very  un- 
friendly dispsetion  to  Wards  us — and  the  Princeple 


58  WIVES  DECLINED — CAMP  MOVED. 


Cheefs  Informed  us  that  When  mager  longe  70  Was 
there  He  told  them  that  the  Predesent  Wold  Send 
them  plenty  of  goods  and  that  the  goods  We  Head 
Ware  Sent  to  Him  and  that  We  Head  no  Wright  to 
traid  them  but  When  He  discovered  that  His  de- 
mands Wold  not  be  Complyed  With  Chainged  His 
disposetion  and  Seems  very  frendly  and  this  night 
offered  Conl  glann  and  Mr  Roy  Each  one  of  His 
Wifes — the  greates  token  of  frendship  those  Inde- 
ans  Can  offer — but  the  offer  Was  de  Clined  telling 
Him  that  it  Was  not  the  White  mans  Habits 

26th  nov  1 82 1 

We  moved  one  mile  down  the  River  to  take  a  bet- 
ter Camp  and  Build  a  house  and  git  of  of  being  so 
Crouded — the  Ietan  and  Some  of  the  Kiawa  threat- 
ned  to  stop  us  but  maid  no  atempt  When  We 
Started.  We  maid  our  Camp  With  the  old  Kiawa 
Cheef  Who  moved  along  With  us  Heare  We  Have 
plenty  of  young  Cotten  Wood  trees  to  Cut  for  the 
Horses — With  good  Setuation  for  our  Camp — 

27th  nov  1 82 1 

Early  this  morning  Was  advised  of  thretned  atack 

from  the  Ietan  and  the  Kiawa  and  Padduce  Indeans 

in  Consequnce  of  our  moveing  from  their  nibor  Hood 

70  Major  S.  H.  Long,  whose  expedition  came  down  the  Arkan- 
saw  and  Canadian  rivers  in  1820.  The  "  Predesent"  above  said 
is  of  course  President  Monroe. 


HOUSE  BUILT — POPULOUS  LODGES.  59 


Set  the  hands  at  Work  Cutting  logs  to  build  a  House 
— a  Report  Came  that  the  Ietans  Had  mounted 
Horses  to  atack  us — We  Continued  at  Work  on  a 
House — and  Was  Informed  that  a  party  to  Protect 
us  Head  met  the  others  and  turned  them  back — the 
Arrapohos  about  day  light  this  morning  Commenced 
moveing  to  us  and  by  night  from  two  to  three  Hun- 
derd  lodges  Ware  Round  us  as  Close  as  the  Cold  Set 
up  their  lodges  Which  Seemed  to  afford  ample  pro- 
tection from  the  others 

between  12  &  1  oclock  We  Received  a  veset  from 
the  Ietan  Cheef  the  first  time  He  Came  near  us  Since 
We  moved  He  Was  very  frendly  and  and  Efected  to 
know  nothing  of  the  difecuealty  that  had  Existed — 
We  Have  Heare  now  about  seven  Hunderd  lodges  of 
the  nations  mentioned  on  the  25th  With  the  addicion 
of  the  Cheans — about  two  Hunderd  lodges — We  So- 
pose  those  Lodges  to  Contain  from  twelve  to  twenty 
pursons  of  all  Sises — Some  Horses  Have  been  Stollen 
Every  night  Since  We  arived  amongst  them  Seven 
of  our  own  are  amongst  the  mising  a  party  of  one 
Hunderd  and  fifty  men  Went  In  pursute  of  the  theefs 
but  Returned  Without  overtakeing  them — We  Ware 
this  day  much  afected  by  the  arivel  of  Findley  Who 
Head  been  absent  from  us  30  days  alone  and  on  foot 
He  informed  us  that  Ware  parteys  of  Pannees  Ware 
both  behind  and  before  Him  tho  He  seen  none — 


6o 


MANY  HORSES  STOLEN. 


28th  nov  1 82 1 

about  10  oClock  a  party  of  200  men  Started  the  (lif- 
erent nations  to  Reinforce  a  party  gon  before  them 
In  pursute  of  Stolen  Horses  With  orders  to  Pursu  till 
the  Caught  them — the  Indeans  manefest  a  more 
frendly  disposion  and  Intimate  an  Intention  of  move- 
ing  down  the  River  In  Consequance  of  the  many 
Horses  Stolen  from  them  Heare — betwen  4  and  500 
Horses  Have  [been]  Stolen  from  them  Since  We 
arived  and  mostly  from  the  Pens  in  the  Center  of  the 
vilege  surrounded  by  upwards  of  seven  Hunderd 
lodges  of  Wachfull  Indeans — the  Ware  Parties  Re- 
turned Without  Efecting  any  thing  Except  those  on 
foot  Wore  the  Soles  off  their  mockesons — 

29th  nov  1 82 1 

the  Snow  Has  Intirely  disappeered  and  the  ground 
dry  as  dust — 

the  Remainder  of  the  War  partey  Have  all  Re- 
turned 

on  our  Way  up  the  River  before  our  arivel  at  the 
Indeans  Camp  I  broke  one  of  the  glasses  out  of  my 
Specks — and  on  puting  them  on  one  day  I  soon  felt 
the  Hand  of  an  Indean  grasp  them  from  my  face  He 
maid  off  as  fast  as  poseble  I  gave  up  the  Specks  for 
lost  but  Head  no  moad  of  Replaceing  them — In  a 
Short  time  I  Heard  great  Shouting  and  lafrlng  and 


SINGULAR  SPECTACLE. 


6l 


looking  to  See  What  Was  the  Caus  I  discovered  the 
Indean  that  Head  taken  my  Specks  Leading  an  other 
With  the  Specks  01  His  face  the  felow  Was  Led  up 
to  me  and  I  was  shoon  that  He  Head  but  on  Eye — 
and  that  the  Specks  Wold  Sute  Him  better  [than] 
me  as  the  Head  but  one  glass  Heare  Eanded  the 
Joack  the  Returned  the  Specks  in  much  good  Humor 
amongst  all  the  Ware  present 

30th  november  1821 
Pased  this  day  With  out  any  diffigualty  Prepareing 
Some  Hunters  to  trap  in  the  mountains. 

1st  Decembr  1821 
fine  Weather  nothing  new — 

2nd  norr  [Dec]  1821 
an  alarm  of  the  Enemy  found  two  of  the  Horses  Sop- 
osed  to  be  stolen — the  Ietan  braught  them  In — the 
Hunters  detained  on  act  of  an  alarm — 

3rd  Decmbr  1821 
Started  the  trappers  under  the  Command  of  Slover 
— and  With  Him  Simpson — maxwell — Pryer  Findley 
and  Taylor 

4th  Decmbr  1821 
Fine  Weather  for  the  Season  this  day  termenated 
Without  any  difegualty — the  Ietan  Cheef  Sick  Sent 


62 


ONE  HUNDRED  BEEVES  PER  DIEM. 


for  Conl  glann  to  give  Some  medeson  but  declined 
In  consequance  of  His  former  bad  Conduct 

6th  Deem  1821 
Fine  Weather  the  Indeans  talk  of  moveing  the  Buf- 
felow  are  now  drove  to  Some  distance  and  this  I  [is] 
not  to  [be]  thought  Straing  as  about  one  Hunderd 
of  them  are  Eaten  In  Camp  Each  day  Sine  our  aRivel 

7th  Deem  1 82 1 
Fine  Weather — nothing  new  to  day 

8th  Deem  1821 
the  morning  fine  Weather  the  Indeans  Still  talk  of 
moving  but  as  yet  Remain  Heare — the  furnish  [us] 
With  Plenty  of  the  best  of  buffelow  meet  at  a  low  Rate 
bu  do  not  Wish  us  to  Hunt  them  our  Selves — aledge- 
ing  We  Wold  drive  the  BufTelow  all  off  the  Ietan 
Cheef  Calling  fore  Some  medecon  a  day  or  two  back 
and  find[ing]  His  Complaint  Was  not  dangerous 
Conl  glann  gave  Him  Some  Rice  and  Black  Pepper 
With  derections  to  boil  and  make  soop  of  it — to  day 
He  paid  us  a  viset  Pufed  up  and  Well  as  Ever  the 
Arrapoho  Cheef  Says  He  Was  Restored  to  Health  by 
the  Same  medeson — 

9th  Decmbr  1821 
Fine  Weather  Continues — yesterday  gave  notice  that 
Some  Horses  Wold  be  purchased  but  none  Has  maid 
their  appeerence — 


RETURN  OF  THE  WAR  PARTY. 


63 


10th  Deem  1821 
yesterday  purchased  one  very  fine  Hors  from  an  Ietan 
at  a  High  Price — the  Weather  fine  this  morning  but 
the  Wind  from  N  W  no  more  Horses  offered  this 
day — 

nth 

last  night  Was  Clouday  the  River  is  now  oppen  Have- 
ing  thad  [thawed]  in  the  those  last  Warm  days — 
the  Weather  is  now  Colder 

1 2th  Deem  1821 
the  Cold  Weather  Still  Continues  but  the  River  is 
not  frosen  up  yesterday  a  War  parley  Returned  the 
Ware  of  the  Ietans — With  28  Horses  taken  from  the 
Crows  on  the  River  Piatt  below  the  mountains — the 
Ware  five  nights  Returning  the  Ietans  this  day 
moved  up  the  River  We  Ware  unable  to  by  any  more 
Horses  tho  We  offered  High  Prices 

13th  Deem  1 82 1 
last  night  the  River  frose  up  the  Weather  is  very  Cold 
the  Indeans  determen  to  move  up  the  River  for  Wood 
and  meet  We  offerd  to  go  With  them  on  the  15th 
Which  Satisfyed  them  very  much  and  they  offered  us 
Horses  to  Carry  our  goods  but  unable  to  make  any 
more  purchases  for  feer  We  leave  them  a  the  [as 
they]  appeer  much  atached  to  us 


64 


CAMP  MOVED  ABOVE  NEPESTA. 


14th  Decmbr  1821 
the  Indeans  Exspect  to  meet  the  Spanyerds  on  the 
River  above  this  place  to  traid  With  them  this  morn- 
ing We  Commenced  packing  up  to  move — 

15th  Deem  1 82 1 
the  Indeans  furnished  us  With  Some  Horses  Which 
Inabled  us  to  move  With  them  up  the  River  about 
five  miles  71  West  from  our  Camp  and  Heare  Camped 
on  the  South  Side  of  the  River — but  about  one  mile 
below  Wheare  We  Camped  the  the  Kiawa  Cheef  With 
His  nation  Had  Stoped  and  Intended  We  Shold 
Stop  With  them  but  the  Arropoho  Cheef  told  us  We 
Shold  go  to  His  Camp  Which  We  Intend  to  do 
but  Heare  a  new  diffqualty  arises  as  the  Clame  us  as 
their  frends — Which  may  lead  to  a  Ware  With  them 
and  destruction  to  our  Selves  but  this  Was  Soon  got 
over  as  two  of  our  men  Stoped  with  the  Kiawa  Cheef 
till  He  got  in  a  good  Hummor  and  telling  Him  that 
He  aught  to  go  With  us — that  it  Was  Him  that  left 
us  and  not  We  that  left  Him — With  this  He  Was  Sat- 
isfyed  and  one  of  the  [men]  Remained  With  Him  all 
night  and  frend  Ship  Was  Restored  the  Kiawas  Came 
to  our  Camp  as  ushal — 

"To  a  position  2  or  3  m.  beyond  Nepesta,  and  about  5  m. 
short  of  Huerfano  river. 


TWENTY  THOUSAND  HORSES. 


65 


1 6th  Deem  1821 
the  man  and  load  left  With  the  Kiawas  Was  braught 
up  and  no  difequality  than  the  Refuse  to  Sell  us  Horses 
Still  feering  We  Will  leave  them — but  to  day  pur- 
chased 2  mules  and  three  Horses  from  the  Arrapohos 

17th  Deem  1 82 1 

the  Weather  verry  much  moderated  Haveing  much 
the  appeerence  of  the  Indean  Sommer 

more  Sevelity  Exsists  amongst  those  Indeans  than 
anny  I  have  Ever  knone  it  is  de[si]rable  on  that  ac- 
coumpt  not  to  Camp  Seperate  from  any  of  the  Bands 
— but  on  the  other  Hand  you  are  Continuly  Crouded 
With  young  men  and  old  begers — We  yet  Want 
about  ten  Horses — and  all  tho  there  is  about  20  000 
in  our  inCampment  and  the  [Indians  are]  distetute 
of  Every  thing — We  are  afraid  We  Will  not  be  able 
to  obtain  them  the  Arrapohoes  Have  but  few  in  Com- 
pareson  With  the  others  owing  to  their  Haveing  last 
Sommer  traided  With  Chians  of  the  mesurey  [Mis- 
souri]— the  Ietan  and  Kiawa  Have  great  nombers 
of  very  fine  Horses — and  Equal  to  any  I  have  Ever 
knone — 

1 8th  Deem  1821 
about  ten  oclock  last  night  the  Wind  Chainged  to  the 
West  and  the  Weather  Exstreemly  Cold  So  that  We 
Cold  not  do  any  thing — We  yesterday  traided  for  two 


66 


MURDEROUS  TOMAHAWKING. 


Horses  and  one  mule — the  Kiawas  paid  us  a  viset  and 
Invited  us  to  a  feest  So  We  are  frends  again — 

19th  Deem  1 82 1 
the  Cold  In  Creces  So  that  it  Is  Imposeble  to  travel 
on  the  Pirarie — the  Children  Have  now  fine  Sport  on 
the  Ice 

20  Deem  1 82 1 
at  day  light  We  Ware  alarmed  by  the  Sound  of  Heavey 
bloes  Struck  by  one  Indean  uppon  an  other  Who  Run 
towards  our  lodge  and  Was  persued  with  the  tamehak 
at  about  one  Rod  distance  a  bio  Was  Struck  but  the 
Indean  Run  Round  our  lodge — but  Was  overtaken 
and  Receved  a  Heavey  blow  on  the  Back  of  the  neck 
Which  felled  Him  to  the  ground  apperently  dead — 
but  but  a  nomber  of  Squas  Interfeered  and  Carryed 
off  the  Soposed  dead  Indean  and  Saved  His  life — 
We  find  Him  to  be  the  Son  of  the  Kiawa  Cheef  and 
first  frend  amongst  the  Indeans  His  murdorer  Was 
the  brother  of  the  great  Arrapoho  Cheef  and  our 
frend  and  protecter  We  are  now  feerful  of  the  most 
Seerous  Consequences  as  We  are  not  able  to  Say 
What  may  Happen  betwen  the  two  nations — as  War 
betwen  them  Wold  be  fatel  for  us 

2 1  st  Deem  1821 
the  man  Wounded  yesterday  is  not  dead  and  is  likely 
to  recover — the  Case  of  the  atack  on  His  Was  the 
Steeling  the  medecen  bagg  of  the  other  Who  Was  a 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE.  67 


Cheef  no  other  difequelty  is  apprehended  as  the  bagg 
is  Returned  and  axepted — We  have  Sucseeded  in 
purchasing  as  many  Horses  as  Will  answer  our  Pur- 
posese  of  moveing — at  night  the  Snow  began  to  fall — 

22nd  Deem  1821 
the  Ietan  Cheef  Has  not  viseted  us  Since  He  moved 
up  the  River  in  Consequence  of  not  Receveing  Some 
presents  He  demanded  on  the  day  He  moved  but  the 
Braves  appeer  friendly  this  four  days  We  Calcolate  on 
moveing  on  Crismus  day  to  the  mountains  no  Inter 
Corse  betwen  the  arrapoho  and  the  Kiawa  for  two 
days 

23rd  Deem  1821 
We  Informed  the  Indeans  that  on  the  25th  We  Wold 
move  to  the  mountains — at  night  Indeans  Inform  us 
of  their  detirmenation  to  move  With  us — 

24th  Deem  1 82 1 
promising  to  move  the  arrapoho  determened  to  ac- 
company us  to  night  Conl  glann  Sent  for  the  Kiawa 
Cheef  and  paid  for  the  use  of  His  lodge  allso  gave  a 
meddle  the  likeness  of  genl  Jacson  Informed  Him  it 
Was  not  the  medle  of  His  great  father  but  it  Was 
given  Him  as  a  token  of  a  great  man  and  as  the 
frend  of  the  White  men  and  Charged  Him  at  the 
Same  time  that  When  Ever  He  meet  the  White  man 
to  treat  Him  frendly  to  Which  He  agread  With  great 
Satisfaction 


68 


CHRISTMAS  DOG  FEAST. 


25th  Deem  1 82 1 
this  morning  the  Conl  gave  the  Ietan  Cheef  a  shirt 
medle  and  Small  presents  With  the  Same  Cerymones 
and  promeses  as  the  Kiawa  yesterday  last  Evening  We 
Sent  for  Him  but  being  un  Well  and  unable  to  Come 
He  Sent  His  brother  by  Home  [whom]  We  Sent 
[word]  We  Wold  viset  Him  in  the  morning  We 
found  Him  very  un  Well  and  discovered  the  the  In- 
disposion  Was  the  Caus  of  His  not  viseting  us  Since 
He  moved  up  the  River  He  Exspresed  much  frend- 
ship  and  Satisfaction — 

the  arrapoho  move  with  us  this  morning. 

It  is  but  Justice  to  Say  We  find  the  Kiawa  the  best 
Indeans  possing  more  firmness  and  manly  deport- 
ment than  the  arrapoho  and  less  arogance  and  Hatey 
Pride  than  the  Ietan — we  Ware  In  vited  this  day  to 
Eat  With  one  of  the  arrapoho  Cheefs  He  Seet  before 
us  a  dish  of  fat  meat  of  Which  We  Eat  plentyfully  We 
Ware  then  asked  if  We  new  what  kind  of  meat  We 
Ware  Eating  We  told  We  did  not  He  then  Said  it 
Wa[s]  a  dog  telling  us  it  [was]  a  great  feest  With  the 
Indeans — and  that  He  Invited  us  for  that  purpose — 

We  move  up  the  River  West  Eight  miles  and 
Camped  on  the  South  Side  Crossing  a  fork  72  of  the 

72  The  Huerfano  or  Orphan  river,  falling  into  the  Arkansaw 
as  said,  opposite  the  station  Booneville  on  the  railroad.  See 
Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  448,  for  this  river,  which  is  his  "  2nd  Fork." 


HUERFANO  AND  SAN  CARLOS  RIVERS.  69 


River  at  five  miles  this  forke  is  Small  and  Heads  to  the 
South  there  is  Some  Cotten  Wood  a  long  its  bottoms 
Which  appeer  to  be  very  Rich  and  Wide  Eknof  for 
farms — the  Arrapohos  acompany  us  We  Ware  fortu- 
nate In  parting  With  the  Rest  of  our  nibours  With 
out  any  difequalty — We  Have  now  in  all  thirty  three 
Horses  In  Cludeing  two  belongeing  to  Peno  one  to 
Vanbeber  two  [to]  J  and  R  Fowler  and  two  to  Dug- 
lass  one  to  Bono  all  in  bad  ordor — 

26th  Deem  1 82 1 
moved  late  In  Consequence  of  lose[ing]  Some  of  our 
Horses  Which  Ware  not  found  till  late  In  the  day — 
our  Corse  South  70  West  five  miles  73 — We  Camped 
on  the  South  Side  of  the  River  to  morrow  the  In- 
deans  make  a  Hunt 

27th  Deem  1821 
We  lay  With  the  Indeans  to  let  our  Horses  Eat  Have- 
ing  kept  them  tyed  up  Sine  We  Started  yesterday 

Among  the  mangled  names  found  in  print  are  Rio  Walfano  of 
Farnham,  Travels,  1843,  p.  41  ;  and,  most  curious  of  all,  Wharf 
creek  of  Long's  Exped.,  ii,  1823,  p.  59,  where  the  innocent 
reader  is  informed  that  the  Rio  Huerfano  "is  called  by  the 
Spaniards  Wharf  creek,  probably  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
washing  perpendicular  precipices  of  moderate  height "  ! 

73  From  camp  at  a  point  given  on  the  25th  as  3  m.  above  the 
Huerfano,  to-day's  5  m.  would  take  Fowler  about  3  m.  short  of 
St.  Charles  river.  He  passes  opposite  the  mouth  of  Chico  creek, 
as  duly  noted  on  the  27th.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  451. 


7o 


COLONEL  GLENN'S  STATEMENT. 


Pased  a  [Chico]  Crick  on  the  north  Side  of  the  River 
its  Corse  is  [from  the]  north — 

28th  Decembr  1821 
We  moved  about  12  oclock  and  Went  five  miles  up 
the  River  and  Camped  on  the  South  Side  Heare  is  the 
Statement  of  Conl  glann  on  parting  With  the  Arra- 
poho  Cheef 74 

I  never  parted  with  a  man  who  showed  as  much  sor- 
row as  the  chief  of  the  arrapoho  He  persuaded  us  very 
much  to  stay  with  him  one  moon  longer — stating  to 
us  the  danger  of  having  our  horses  stolen  &c  &c  but 
finding  in  the  morning  we  determined  to  start  he 
made  no  objection,  after  giving  him  a  medal  &c  as 
I  did  to  the  other  Chiefs — and  making  a  small  present 
with  all  of  which  he  was  much  satisfied  when  I  shook 
hands  with  him  to  start  he  threw  himself  on  his  bed 
in  tears — after  traveling  about  one  mile  we  was  over- 
taken by  one  of  his  brothers,  a  young  chief  with  a  re- 
quest to  incamp  on  this  side  as  his  brother  was  start- 
ing to  follow  so  as  to  sleep  one  more  night  with  us  we 
are  truly  fortunate  in  having  those  3  nations  with  us — 

14  At  this  point  in  the  MS.  the  handwriting  changes,  Fowler's 
giving  way  to  that  of  Colonel  Glenn,  who  writes  in  a  firm  and 
clear  hand.  The  reader  will  also  notice  the  difference  in  the 
spelling  and  syntax  of  what  now  follows,  to  the  middle  of  the 
account  of  Dec.  31. 


COLONEL  GLENN'S  STATEMENT. 


7-i 


29th  Deer 

The  chief  did  not  arrive  last  night  as  he  sent  us 
word — but  early  next  morning  an  express  arrived  to 
inform  us  that  instant  as  he  was  starting  Two  Span- 
iards arrived  and  that  a  party  of  60  were  expected  to- 
day with  a  request  for  us  to  return  and  see  them — 
Mr  Roy  &  myself  immediatly  returned,  and  reod  with 
as  much  Joy  and  satisfaction  by  the  village  as  if 
though  we  had  been  absent  for  one  year  the  friend- 
ship which  they  shew  us  before  the  Spaniards  will  con- 
vince them  that  shod  the  party  expected  be  hostile  we 
will  have  the  friendship  of  the  Indians  and  although 
my  party  is  now  only  13  men  in  all  I  fele  no  fear  in 
meeting  60  Spaniards,  with  the  multitude  of  the 
Indians 

30th  Deer 

Yesterday  at  about  3  Oclock  we  went  out  to  the 
Prarie  to  see  if  we  could  discover  the  Spanish  party — 
we  discovered  them  about  5  miles  distance,  we  ad- 
vanced to  meet  them — when  they  discovered  us  they 
halted  and  formed  to  receive  us  in  "  military  style  " — 
we  were  requested  by  our  Companion  to  Halt,  when 
we  were  received  on  a  full  charge — To  within  ten 
paces  of  us  when  the  men  all  dismounted  and  em- 
braced us  with  affection  and  friendship — they  are  all 
Creoles  of  that  country — seem  well  disposed — possess 


72 


COLONEL  GLENN'S  STATEMENT. 


far  less  sence  than  the  Indeans  we  are  with,  seem 
happy  and  possess  a  greater  degree  of  Joy  at  seeing 
us  than  could  be  Immagined — It  is  a  matter  of  aston- 
ishment the  difference  of  treatment  of  the  Indians  to 
them  and  our  party — the  Indians  Commanded  them 
as  much  as  we  command  our  negroes — At  night  the 
Indians  asked  us  if  we  were  willing  to  let  the  Capt. 
and  his  principle  man  sleep  [in]  the  lodge  with  us, 
which  we  agreed  to — the  Indeans  derected  them  to 
pray  so  that  we  may  see  their  fashion  which  they 
readily  agreed  to  and  went  through  with  the  Catholic 
prayers,  and  afterwards  prayed  fervently  for  us — their 
whole  trading  equipment  in  the  U.  S.  would  not  sell 
for  fifty  dollars — In  short  to  describe  them  would  re- 
quire the  pen  of  a  Butler  and  the  pencil  of  a  Hogarth 
— They  leave  here  to  morrow  for  home  and  I  intend 
to  accompany  them — 

31st  Deer.  It  is  only  necessary  to  Judge  of  them  to 
say  the  Capt.  and  all  his  party  were  painted  like  the 
Indians  the  day  they  traded — and  during  the  prayer 
the  Capt.  Caught  a  louse  on  his  shirt  and  eat  it — 75 

the  Spaniards  moved  up  to  our  Camp  from  the  In- 
deans for  the  purpose  of  [selling]  us  Some  Corn  the 

75  At  this  point  Fowler  resumes  his  own  pen,  but  Colonel 
Glenn's  story  continues,  apparently  by  dictation  to  Fowler,  to 
the  end  of  the  entry  for  Jan.  1,  1822. 


COLONEL  GLENN'S  STATEMENT. 


73 


no  [they  know]  nothing  about  our  moad  of  measure- 
ment but  ask  at  the  Rate  of  ten  dollers  pr  Bushil  the 
ask  thirty  dollers  for  a  mule  and  one  Hunderd  dollers 
for  ther  best  Running  Horses — We  Intend  leaveing 
this  With  the  Spanierds  in  the  morning — 

January  ist  1822 
this  being  a  holaday  With  our  nibours  We  lay  by  all 
day — Haveing  about  two  pounds  of  bacon  Which  I 
Head  kept  as  a  Reserve  I  Heare  Shewd  it  to  the  In- 
deans — the  Cheef  asked  What  kind  of  anemel  maid 
that  meat  When  He  Was  told  a  Hog  He  Requested 
the  Shape  of  it  to  be  maid  on  the  Sand  When  that 
Was  [done]  all  the  Indeans  said  the  Head  never  Seen 
Such  an  animal  and  appeered  to  Wonder  and  think 
it  Strange  that  the  Head  never  Seen  the  like  Soposing 
them  Selves  to  Have  Seen  all  kind  of  anemels — 

I  Heare  left  mager  Fowler  in  Charge  of  the  Camp 
With  Instructions  to  fortify  His  Camp  and  Hors  Peen 
to  treat  all  Indeans  frendly  but  traid  With  none — and 
shold  War  party  Call  to  let  them  Have  Some  Powder 
ball  and  Paint  With  Some  tobaco 

on  the  30th  ultimo  three  of  our  [men]  Ware 
Sent  out  to  the  mountains  to  Hunt  for  Buffelow 
and  Ware  meet  by  a  party  of  thirteen  Indeans 
of  the  Crowes  Haveing  With  them  about  two 
Hunderd   Horses   Which   the   Had   Stolen  from 


74  COLONEL  GLENN'S  STATEMENT. 

Some  other  nation  and  Ware  on  theer  Way 
Home — the  took  our  men  Prisnors  as  fare  as  the 
River  Wheare  the  took  from  them  their  Powder  ball 
and  Blankets  giveing  them  nine  fine  Horses  in  pay- 
ment for  What  the  Head  taken  While  this  traid  Was 
progresing  the  Horses  Ware  Crossing  on  the  Ice — a 
Ware  Party  of  arrapohoes  over  took  them  a  battle 
Was  the  Consequence  and  Each  party  took  off  part 
of  the  Horses  and  our  men  maid  their  Escape  In  the 
Battle  leaveing  all  the  Horses  the  Head  obtained  of 
the  Indeans — the  Ware  treated  frendly  by  the  Crowes 
and  tolled  the  Ware  taken  only  to  prevent  them  from 
giveing  Information  to  the  arrapohoes — the  Crowes 
Say  the  left  the  White  People  on  the  Piatt  about  10 
nights  ago  and  that  it  Will  take  them  three  nights  to 
go  there  With  their  Horses  Wheare  the  left  the  Rest 
of  their  nation — the  speeke  on  the  most  frendly  terms 
of  the  White  men  and  Say  the  are  about  35  in  nom- 
ber — all  the  nesecery  araingements  are  maid  for  my 
Self  and  four  men  to  Set  out  in  the  morning  to  Cross 
the  mountains  to  Santafee — 76 

Jany  2nd  1822 
this  morning  the  Spanierds  Began  to  Collect  their 
Horses  and  load  for  their  departure — Conl  glann  and 

76  Santa  Fe,  N.  M. — End  of  Colonel  Glenn's  story,  in  Fowler's 
handwriting. 


MAJOR  FOWLER  LEFT  IN  COMMAND.  75 

four  men  Set  out  With  them — leaveing  me  With 
Eight  men  in  an  oppen  Camp  With  the  ballence  of  the 
goods  after  takeing  Some  things  With  Him  to  Sell 
So  as  to  pay  their  Exspences.  We  are  now  In  the 
Hart  of  the  Inden  Cuntry  and  Emedetly  on  the  great 
Ware  Road — not  only  of  one  nation  against  the 
others — in  the  Road  to  all  the  Spanish  Settlements 
With  Which  the  Indeans  on  this  Side  of  the  moun- 
tains are  ?t  War — So  that  our  Setuation  is  not  of 
the  most  Plesent  kind — We  Have  no  meet  In  Camp 
— and  Con  Clude  to  Send  two  Hunters  out  With 
Horses  in  the  morning  to  kill  Some  meat  Intending 
to  Set  the  ballence  of  the  Hands  at  Work  to  build  a 
Hous  and  a  Strong  Peen  for  the  Horses  at  night 

Jany  the  3rd  1822 
Roas  Early  to  Start  the  Hunters  ordered  two  of  the 
men  to  Prepare  the  Horses  While  the  Hunters  got 
Readey — but  the  men  lay  Still  I  maid  the  Second  Call 
hut  With  no  better  Sucsees — I  then  discovered  that  a 
mutney  Was  Intended — and  Emedetly  drew  one  of 
the  men  from  His  beed  by  the  top  of  His  Head,  but 
[one]  of  his  frends  in  the  Plott  asisted  Him — and  We 
Ware  Soon  all  In  a  ScofTel.  but  Robert  Fowler  Soon 
Came  to  my  asistance — and  the  bisness  as  Soon 
Ended — tho  it  Was  Some  time  before  the  gave  up 
their  Intended  muteney  and  five  of  them  Seperated  to 


76 


INSUBORDINATION  IN  CAMP. 


them  Selves  and  declared  the  Wold  do  the  plased  and 
Wold  not  be  ordered  by  any  other  porson — I  soon 
discovered  that  the  Exspected  the  Spanierds  Wold 
not  let  Conl  glann  Return  and  that  they  Intended  to 
make  the  best  of  the  goods  the  Cold — aledgeing  the 
Ware  the  Strongest  party  and  that  the  Wold  pay 
them  Selves — on  Which  discovery  I  told  them  that 
un  less  the  Wold  Return  to  their  dutey  I  Wold  send 
for  the  Arrapoho  Cheef  Who  Wold  be  gld  to  asist 
me  to  take  Care  of  the  goods  and  that  the  might  go 
Whare  the  plased — and  that  I  Wold  not  Suffer  them 
to  meddle  With  the  goods — the  then  Held  a  Councle 
and  sent  one  man  to  tell  me  that  If  I  Wold  be 
acountable  to  them  for  their  pay — the  Wold  go  to 
their  dutey  and  do  What  I  ordored  them — to  Which 
I  toled  them  I  wold  make  no  new  Bargen  With  them 
— and  that  If  the  Chose  the  might  go  on  With  their 
mutenous  Sceen — that  I  Cold  protect  the  goods  till 
the  Indeans  Came  for  Which  I  Wold  Soon  Send — the 
then  all  Came  and  Stated  that  the  Wold  do  What  I 
told  them  and  Wold  go  to  Work  Emedetley — and 
asked  me  to  think  of  them  and  Secure  the  pay  for 
them  If  Conl  glann  Shold  not  Return  Which  the 
Espected  He  never  Wold,  and  that  it  Wold  be  Heard 
for  them  to  loos  all  their  Wages — to  Which  I  toled 
them  if  the  Continued  to  do  as  good  and  Honest  men 
aught  that  as  fare  as  the  goods  Wold  Reech  they 


ORDER  RESTORED— HOUSE  BUILDING.  77 

Shold  be  paid — the  two  men  Went  out  to  Hunt  but 
Returned  With  out  killing  any  thing — now  all  Hands 
Went  to  Worke  Willingly  and  by  night  We  Head  the 
Hors  Peen  finished  and  the  Hous  With  two  pens  four 
logs  High — Which  maid  part  of  the  Hors  Pen  and  the 
door  of  the  Hous  in  the  Hors  Peen  Which  Was  So 
Strong  that  a  few  Indeans  Cold  not  take  the  Horses 
out  With  out  Choping  Some  of  the  logs — and  must 
Waken  us  all  tho  We  Slept  Ever  So  Sound — 

Friday  4th  Jany  1822 
Went  to  Work  Early  got  our  House  nine  loggs 
High — and  began  to  pitch  the  tents  on  the  top  by 
Way  of  a  Roof  the  House  Just  Wide  Enof  for  that 
purpose  We  Heared  a  gun  near  Camp  two  of 
the  Hunters  out  We  Soon  Heared  another  and 
then  Several  others  I  took  up  my  gun  and  Went  to 
the  plase  Whear  Robert  Fowler  Head  killed  two  deer 
and  Wounded  Several  more  Heare  We  met  With 
Ward  With  one  deer  and  one  turkey  We  Have  now 
plenty  of  meet  the  first  We  Have  Head  for  five  days 
all  Which  time  We  lived  on  Corn  precured  from  the 
Spanierds — 

yesterday  While  we  Ware  building  our  House  the 
Arrapoho  Cheef  and  two  of  His  Brothers  Came  to 
our  Camp  With  one  mule  We  had  lost  While  With 
them — for  Which  I  gave  them  Some  presents — one  of 


78 


JOCKEYING. 


them  Went  to  our  Horses  and  Caught  Hold  [of]  one 
Which  Ward  Head  braught  in  a  few  days  ago  Which 
He  Soposed  the  Crows  Had  lost — but  the  Arrapoho 
Clames — and  I  have  no  doupt  of  His  being  the  oner 
— Ward  derectly  asked  the  Indean  for  presents  Stat- 
ing that  I  Head  given  them  Some  thing  for  finding 
the  mule  that  He  Wanted  Some  for  finding  the  Horse 
— but  this  demand  ofended  the  Indeans  He  Stated 
that  the  did  not  Cut  off  the  mules  tail  to  alter  its  looks 
as  Ward  Had  don  the  Hors — and  throing  down  What 
the  Head  Receved  said  the  Wold  keep  the  mule  and 
that  they  Head  lost  three  Horses  and  Soposed  that 
Ward  Head  taken  them  all  and  that  the  other  two 
Ware  yet  among  our  Horses  and  Went  and  looked — 
but  Cold  find  no  more — I  told  them  there  Was  but 
one  braught  to  Camp  and  that  Ward  Had  don  Rong 
to  Cut  the  Horses  tail — that  He  Head  allso  don 
Wrong  to  ask  any  thing  I  gave  them  up  the  Hors  and 
told  them  to  take  What  I  Head  given  them — Pre- 
sented the  pipe  Which  the  Smoked  beged  Some  Pow- 
der and  Bullets  Which  gave  them — the  are  now  quite 
pleased — Set  off  to  go  to  their  Camp  Huging  us  all 
before  the  Start  telling  us  the  move  Camp  to  morrow 
and  Will  meet  us  in  the  Spring  on  the  River  as  We  go 
down 


SITE  OF  THE  CITY  OF  PUEBLO. 


79 


Saterday  5th  Jany  1822 
three  men  Went  With  Horses  on  the  Hunt  of  Buf- 
felow  but  Returned  With  out  seeing  any  this  day  fin- 
ished our  House  and  Packed  in  all  the  goods 

Sunday  6th  Jany  1822 
Went  up  to  the  Warm  Spring  Branch  77  and  Soot  two 
traps  but  the  Weather  is  So  Cold  I  beleve  the  bever 

77  Fontaine  qui  Bouille  of  the  French,  Boiling  Spring  river  or 
creek,  present  Fountain  river  or  creek,  site  of  the  city  of  Pueblo. 
This  river  is  Fontaine-qui-bouit  in  Fremont,  Fontequebouir  in 
Farnham,  Rio  Almagre  of  the  Spanish,  and  forms  one  of  the 
Grand  Forks  of  Pike.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  452,  etc. 

We  must  pause  here  to  consider  Fowler  as  the  first  settler,  or 
at  least  squatter,  on  the  site  of  the  future  Pueblo,  Col.,  the  honor 
of  founding  which  is  claimed  by,  and  commonly  conceded  to, 
James  P.  Beckwourth,  whose  mendacity  was  as  illimitable  as  the 
plains  over  which  he  roamed  while  he  was  the  great  chief  of  the 
Crows,  and  whose  credit  for  the  same  was  as  high  as  the  moun- 
tains in  which  his  adopted  nation  lurked.  It  is  true  that  Pike 
built  at  Pueblo  a  sort  of  stockade  for  the  defense  of  his  party, 
but  this  was  merely  a  log  pen  or  breastwork  which  his  men  occu- 
pied Nov.  24-29,  1806,  while  he  went  on  a  side  trip  to  his  peak. 
The  structure  was  such  as  could  be  thrown  up  over  night,  and  all 
trace  of  it  speedily  disappeared.  But  Fowler  built  a  habitable 
house  and  horse-corral,  which  he  occupied  about  a  month,  while 
his  party  were  trapping,  hunting,  and  herding  their  stock  in  the 
vicinity,  awaiting  the  appointed  time  to  take  up  the  Taos  Trail 
which  Col.  Glenn  had  already  followed  to  Santa  Fe.  The  site  of 
Pueblo  does  not  appear  to  have  been  reoccupied  in  any  way 
that  can  be  called  settling,  for  20  years  after  Fowler.  Then  the 
redoubtable  Jim  appears  upon  the  scene  :  see  Leland's  ed.  of 
Bonner's  Life  of  Beckwourth,  1892,  p.  383.    "We  reached  the 


8o 


FOUNDATION  OF  PUEBLO. 


Will  not  Come  out — duglass  in  the  Evening  on  drive- 
ing  up  the  Horses  Reports  Some  Buffelow  In  Sight 
the  Hunters  Will  look  for  them  In  the  morning 

monday  7th  Jany  1822 
Went  out  to  look  for  the  Buffelow  Seen  them  but 

Arkansaw  about  the  first  of  October,  1842,  where  I  erected  a 
trading-post,  and  opened  a  successful  business.  In  a  very  short 
time  I  was  joined  by  from  fifteen  to  twenty  free  trappers,  with 
their  families.  We  all  united  our  labors,  and  constructed  an 
adobe  fort  sixty  yards  square.  By  the  following  spring  we  had 
grown  into  quite  a  little  settlement,  and  we  gave  it  the  name  of 
Pueblo. "  In  so  saying,  this  boundless  liar  tells  the  truth — whether 
by  accident  or  design  is  immaterial  to  the  substantial  accuracy 
of  what  he  says.  We  also  read  further  in  Inman,  p.  252  :  "  The 
old  Pueblo  fort,  as  nearly  as  can  be  determined  now,  was  built 
as  early  as  1840,  cr  not  later  than  1842,  and,  as  one  authority 
asserts,  by  George  Simpson  and  his  associates,  Barclay  and 
Doyle.  Beckwourth  claims  to  have  been  the  original  projector  of 
the  fort,  and  to  have  given  the  general  plan  and  its  name,  in 
which  I  am  inclined  to  believe  he  is  correct ;  perhaps  Barclay, 
Doyle,  and  Simpson  were  connected  with  him,  as  he  states  that 
there  were  other  trappers,  though  he  mentions  no  names.  It 
was  a  square  fort  of  adobe,  with  circular  bastions  at  the  corners, 
no  part  of  the  walls  being  more  than  eight  feet  high.  Around 
the  inside  of  the  plaza,  or  corral,  were  half  a  dozen  small  rooms 
inhabited  by  as  many  Indian  traders  and  mountain-men." 
According  to  Fitzpatrick,  in  1847  the  settlement  contained  about 
150  men  and  60  or  more  women,  the  former  mostly  Missourians, 
French-Canadians,  and  Mexicans,  whose  wives  were  squaws  of 
various  Indian  tribes,  together  with  some  American  Mormon 
women.  On  this  subject  see  also  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  453,  454, 
where  an  adobe  fort  is  noted. 


TOPOGRAPHY  OF  PUEBLO. 


81 


killed  none — Went  With  Robert  Fowler  to  the  traps 
— Caught  nothing  on  our  Return  We  Went  to  the 
Washed  Rock  as  We  Called  it  Which  Stands  near  the 
Bace  of  the  Second  bottom  or  low  Hills  the  are  about 
fifty  feet  Higher  than  the  low  Bottom  and  Exstend 
back  to  Some  miles  With  out  Riseing  much  Higher 
it  appeers  that  this  High  land  Exstended  once  Round 
this  Rock  and  has  been  Washed  a  Way  by  the  River 
the  Rock  is  about  ten  feet  Higher  than  the  Highest 
land  in  the  nibour  Hood  and  in  the  neck  of  low  ground 
betwen  a  point  of  from  5  to  7  acers  nearly  Squair — 
and  the  High  lands  back  of  the  bottom — and  In  my 
openion  the  best  Setuation  In  all  this  Section  of  the 
Cuntry  for  a  garison  as  it  is  near  Wood  and  Watter 
Which  is  in  the  River  about  100  yds  on  the  South 
West  side  of  this  table  and  about  50  yds  from  the 
above  Rock  Which  [is]  only  asendable  on  the  East 
Side  Round  on  the  top  about  fifteen  feet  diameter — 
a  stone  Wall  is  Raised  on  the  margin  of  Such  a  Hight 
that  a  man  may  Sett  With  Safty  from  Small  army  in 
the  nibor  Hood  and  about  twelve  men  might  [illegi- 
ble] With  Convenence  this  Rock  is  about  400  Hun- 
derd  yds  from  the  mouth  of  the  Warm  Spring  branch 
Which  is  West  from  th  Rock  and  Heads  to  the  north 
its  bottoms  a  bout  J  a  mile  Wide — a  large  River  bot- 
tom on  the  South  and  West  mostly  Pirarie — the  High 
Ridge  Exstends  from  the  Rock  about  South  East — 


82 


THE  OUTLOOK  AT  PUEBLO. 


this  Crick  Contains  Watter  soffecent  for  mills  and 
With  a  long  Raice  plenty  of  fall  may  be  Head — 

tusday  8th  Jany  1822 
Went  up  to  the  mouth  of  the  Crick  from  that  to  the 
Hill  mentioned  yesterday  and  looking  up  the  River 
Seen  the  glisning  of  a  gun  barrel  or  Swoard  blaid  but 
Cold  See  nothin  Elce  Returned  to  Camp 

Wensday  9th  Jany  1822 
my  Self  Robert  Fowler  and  Jesey  Vanbeber  Went  on 
Hors  back  to  look  for  Buffelow  on  the  South  Side  of 
the  River  at  about  one  and  a  Half  miles  up  the  River 
We  Ware  Stoped  by  Vanbeber  Calling  to  us  that  He 
Seen  Seven  or  Eight  Indeans  on  the  Pirarie  on  the 
north  Side  of  the  River — that  He  Seen  their  gunbar- 
rels  gleson  tho  at  about  three  miles  distance  We  Re- 
turned to  Camp  Emedetly — and  Head  the  Horses 
drove  up  and  garded  the  ballence  of  the  day — tho  We 
Seen  nothing  more  of  the  Indeans — I  Exspect  the 
Ware  a  War  party  looking  for  the  Arrapoho  to  Steel 
their  Horses  and  that  the  Head  Seen  nothing  of  us  or 
the  Wold  Have  paid  us  a  viset — 

thorsday  10th  Jany  1822 
Went  out  on  the  South  Side  of  the  River  took  Pall 
With  me  I  went  about  three  miles  over  leavel  Loos 


HUNTING  AND  HERDING. 


83 


Sandey  land  to  a  High  Ridge  from  Which  We  Seen 
one  Buffelow  about  2  miles  beyound  us — We  Re- 
turned to  Camp  Killed  nothing — the  Hunters  killed 
nothing — our  meet  scarce  this  morning  Head  the  Ice 
Sanded  So  as  to  make  a  Road  for  the  Horses  fine 
grass  on  the  north  Side  We  put  them  over  and  Return 
them  at  night  in  to  the  Pen  Whear  We  feed  them 
With  the  tops  of  the  Young  Cotten  Wood — of  Which 
the  are  very  fond 

Friday  nth  Jany  1822 
Sent  the  Horses  over  Early,  duglas  to  Hord  them  as 
Has  been  the  Case  Ever  Since  the  Conl  left  us.  one 
man  all  day  With  the  Horses  and  drive  them  up  at 
night  the  Wach  by  day  is  taken  by  turns  amongest  the 
Hands  We  Have  now  thirty  Horses  In  Cluding  those 
belonging  to  Indeviduels — about  12  oclock  the  Hunt- 
ers Came  In  from  the  mountains  Six  in  nomber  the 
Weather  Is  So  Cold  the  Cannot  trap  the  Have  Caught 
only  Seven  Bever  killed  Some  deer  Ealk  and  buffelow 
our  Hunters  kill  one  deer  this  day  our  Sperets  are  a 
little  Raised  We  are  now  fifteen  In  nomber  and  this 
party  bringing  In  With  them  Six  Horses  and  two 
mules  We  have  thirty  Eight  In  all 

Saterday  12th  Jany  1822 
Sent  four  Hunters  With  Seven  Horses  on  the  South 
Side  of  the  River  to  the  mountains  to  Hunt  Buffelow 


84 


LOOKING  FOR  A  NEW  CAMP. 


and  not  to  Return  In  less  than  three  days  Sent  the 
Horses  over  the  River  to  Paster — With  Barbo  to 
Hord  them  Who  braught  them  all  In  at  night 

Sunday  13th  Jany  1822 
Sent  the  Horses  over  the  River  Dick  Walters  to  Hord 
them — all  Returned  Safte  at  night — the  Hunters  not 
Returned — 

monday  14th  Jany  1822 
Sent  the  Horses  over  the  River  With  Bono  to  atend 
them — He  killed  one  Deer  and  Braught  it  to  Camp 
the  Hunters  Returned  With  Small  Buffelow — the 
Head  Killed  Several  old  ones  but  the  Ware  Poor  and 
left  out  the  Horses  all  up  at  night 

tusday  15th  Jany  1822 
drove  the  Horses  over  the  River  on  the  Ice  as  ushal — 
I  then  Went  to  look  out  a  good  Setuation  for  a  new 
Settlement  on  the  north  Side  of  the  River — Intend- 
ing to  move  tomorrow  Should  no  acoumpt  Reach  us 
from  Conl  glann — as  We  began  to  Sopose  He  Is  now 
not  at  liverty  to  send  or  Return  there  being  the  full 
time  Elapsed  in  Which  He  promised  to  Send  an  Ex- 
spress — and  We  think  that  a  party  of  Spanirds  may 
be  Sent  to  take  us  prisnors — for  Which  Reason  In- 
tend makeing  a  Strong  Hous  and  Hors  Pen  on  the 
Bank  of  the  River  Wheare  it  Will  not  be  In  the  Powe 
of  an  Enemy  to  aproch  us  from  the  River  Side — and 


CAMP  MOVED — VISIT  OF  CROWS.  85 


Shold  the  Spanierds  appeer  In  a  Hostill  manner  We 
Will  fight  them  on  the  Ameraken  ground,  the  River 
Hear  being  the  line  by  the  last  tretey — the  Horses  all 
up  at  night 

Wensday  16th  Jany  1822 
moved  Camp  Early  up  the  River  on  the  north  Side  to 
the  Spot  I  looked  out  yesterday — We  Built  a  Strong 
Hors  Peen  and  Put  up  the  Horses  at  night — no  Word 
from  Conl  glann — We  begin  to  Conclude  as  Is  not 
Well  Him  [all  is  not  well  with  him] 

thorsday  17th  Jany  1822 
Sent  the  Horses  out  to  grase  With  Dick  Walters  to 
atend  them  Robert  Fowler  and  my  Self  Each  Shott 
one  aughter  [otter]  on  the  Ice  the  Horses  all  up  at 
night  no  Word  from  Conl  glann  We  Intend  building 
a  Hous  to  morrow  about  one  Hour  In  the  night 
thirty  Indeans  of  the  Crows  Came  In  to  our  Camp 
and  Ware  frendly  Recogniseing  the  three  men  the 
maid  Prisnors  on  the  30th  of  last  month  and  Ex- 
spressed  much  Joy  to  See  them,  and  that  the  Head 
got  Saft  out  of  the  fight  With  the  Arrapohos — State- 
ing  the  Ware  going  to  War  With  that  nation  We 
gave  them  Plenty  of  boiled  meet  of  Which  the  Eat 
Hartily  I  gave  them  Some  tobaco  to  Smoke — after 
the  Head  don  Eating  and  Smokeing  the  Sung  a  long 
Song  and  all  lay  down  and  Slept  tell  morning — 


86 


THIEVISH  VISITORS. 


Friday  18th  Jany  1822 
the  Cheef  this  morning  asked  for  Some  tobaco  Pow- 
der and  lead  for  His  People  Which  I  gave  Him  With 
Which  he  appered  Well  Pleesed  and  gave  me  a  Hors 
and  I  then  [gave  him]  four  knives — the  Indeans  be- 
gun now  to  move  off — but  takeing  What  the  Cold 
lay  their  Hands  on — one  of  our  men  lost  a  Pistle  I 
toled  [the]  Cheef  Who  Returned  [it]  Emedetly — and 
Caused  all  to  be  Returned  He  Cold  but  Some  of  the 
Indeans  Head  gon  before  the  artickels  Ware  mised 
on  fellow  Came  In  to  my  tent  threw  down  His  old 
Roab  and  took  a  new  one — I  took  it  from  Him  and 
toled  Him  to  take  His  own — and  on  His  takeing  it 
took  my  Saddle  bagg  all  So — I  took  them  from  Him 
and  Pushed  Him  out  of  the  tent — by  this  time  one  of 
the  [men]  Called  out  the  an  Indean  Was  going  off 
With  His  Blanket  I  applyed  to  the  Cheef  Who  fol- 
lowed the  fellow  and  braught  back  the  blanket — but 
the  fellow  Coming  back  Presented  His  gun  at  Simp- 
son— on  Which  We  Ware  all  Redey  for  Battle  In  an 
Instent  but  the  Indean  let  down  His  gun  Picked  up  an 
old  Roab  He  Had  left  as  it  appeered  in  place  of  the 
blanket  the  Cheef  then  moved  them  all  off  before 
Him — but  after  the  Ware  gon  Several  things  Ware 
missing  amongst  the  Rest  a  Roal  of  large  Brass  Wier 
three  blankets  five  knives  a  smelting  ladle  and  Dick 
Walters  Shot  pouch  and  Powder  Horn  With  their 


NEW  HOUSE  AND  HORSE  PEN. 


87 


Contents  the  Cheef  toled  me  the  Ware  In  Sarch  of  the 
Arrapohos  Who  He  Said  Head  left  [this]  part  of  the 
Cuntry  and  gon  to  the  South  that  He  Wold  Re- 
turn Home  to  the  River  Wheare  the  White  men  Ware 
traid  Ing  With  His  nation  and  Stated  that  the  Whites 
Ware  Sixty  five  in  nomber — the  Indeans  Have  Eaten 
up  nearly  all  our  meet  and  We  feel  alarmed  least  the 
Shold  Return — and  Soon  Set  about  building  a  Hous 
— nor  did  We  let  out  the  Horses  till  We  Ware  Well 
ashored  the  Indeans  Ware  all  gone  off — 

We  built  the  Hous  With  three  Rooms  and  but  one 
out  Side  door  and  that  Close  to  the  Hors  Pen  So  that 
the  Horses  Cold  not  be  taken  out  at  night  Without 
our  knoledge  We  got  the  Hous  Seven  logs  High 
and  Well  Chinked  the  goods  al  stoed  a  Way  before 
night — two  of  our  Hunters  Went  Some  distance  on 
the  Indean  trail  and  See  two  of  them  Sitting  on  a 
Hill  as  a  Rear  gard — and  on  our  men  Returning  the 
Cold  See  three  Indeans  following  them  Some  distance 
but  least  the  Should  Come  back  and  take  our  Horses 
the  Ware  all  drove  Into  the  Peen  and  garded  the  bal- 
ence  of  the  day  and  all  night — We  now  felled  trees  a 
Cross  the  Hors  Peen  So  that  it  Was  Imposeble  for 
the  Indeans  to  take  the  Horses  out  With  out  Chop- 
ing  them  off  and  our  door  and  Hors  Peen  door  Ware 
So  Setuated  that  [they]  Cold  not  be  taken  out  With 
out  our  knoledge  as  We  kept  two  Sentnals  all  night 


88  EXPECTING  ANOTHER  VISITATION. 

and  all  the  men  Slept  With  their  armes  Readey  be- 
leveing  the  Indeans  from  the  disposetion  Shoon  to 
Steell  When  the  left  us  Wold  Return  at  night  and 
Steel  our  Horses — 

Satterday  19th  Jany  1822 
Sent  out  the  Horses  Early  and  Bono  to  Watch  them 
— the  Ware  all  up  at  night  and  two  Sentnals  up  all 
night  We  See  nothing  of  the  Indeans  but  Exspect 
them  In  a  few  days — the  Cheef  toled  us  He  Exspected 
to  Return  In  a  few  days  and  that  We  Shold  move  up 
betwen  the  mountains  out  of  the  Ware  path  that  a 
great  many  parteys  Wold  Com  this  Way  and  Wold 
Steel  all  our  Horses  and  take  our  goods  to  avoid 
Which  We  must  go  up  betwen  the  mountains  out  of 
their  Way  and  Whear  there  Was  plenty  of  deer  Elk 
and  Buffelow  and  that  as  the  White  mans  frend  He 
Wold  viset  us  there — 

How  Ever  good  this  advice  I  Cold  not  Pursue  it  till 
the  time  Sott  by  Conl  glann  to  Return  Shold  Run  out 
Which  Wold  be  on  the  2nd  day  of  febury — and  if  He 
did  not  come  by  that  it  Wold  be  becaus  He  [was] 
detained  a  prisnor — and  then  I  was  to  go  Whear  I 
thaught  best 

Sunday  20th  Jany  1822 
the  Horses  out  Early  Ward  and  maxwell  to  gard  them 
— Robert  Fowler  and  Slover  Caught  one  bever  and  a 


TRAPPING  BEAVER. 


89 


bever  took  off  our  trap  Which  appeers  Was  Swept 
a  Way  by  the  Runing  of  the  Ice — I  sott  2  traps  In 
the  Evening  the  Horses  all  up  at  night 

Monday  21st  January  1822 — 
I  Caught  one  large  bever  this  morning — and  Slover  a 
Small  one — the  Horses  out  Early — We  are  all  most 
out  of  meet — and  our  Corn  begining  to  be  Scarce  Con 
Clude  to  Send  Hunters  out  tomorrow  to  kill  buffelow 
Horses  all  up  at  night 

tusday  22nd  Jany  1822 
I  Sent  off  three  men  with  four  Horses  to  kill  Buffe- 
low Findley  out  to  Wach  the  Horses  Caught  one 
Bever  the  Hunters  Return  at  night  but  killed  nothing 
found  one  found  one  mair  Soposed  to  Have  been 
Stolen  by  the  Indeans  found  two  Horses  and  braught 
them  to  Camp — Seen  one  other  Hors  the  did  not  take 
Will  go  after  Him  to  morrow  Horses  all  up  at  night 

Wensday  23rd  Jany  1822 
Horses  out  Early — High  Wind  and  Clear — tho  a  little 
Cloudey  before  day  light — the  Hole  of  this  month  up 
to  this  time  Clear  Hard  frosts  at  night  the  last  ten 
days  Warm  the  Ice  Which  Was  Eighteen  [inches] 
thick  on  the  River  is  nearly  gon  and  the  River  oppen 
— Caught  one  bever  and  lost  one  trap  Which  Caught 
a  bever  Which  pulled  up  the  Stake  to  which  the  trap 


90  NO  WORD  FROM  COLONEL  GLENN. 

Was  fasned  and  all  Went  off  together — the  Horses  all 
up  at  night  two  of  the  men  drove  a  Hors  Soposed  to 
Have  Strayed  from  the  Indeans — the  men  now  begin 
to  gro  verey  un  Easey  no  Word  from  the  Conl — He 
promised  to  Send  Peno  back  in  fifteen  days  it  is  now 
twenty  three  days  and  no  Word  We  Exspect  they  are 
all  prisnors — and  that  a  party  of  Spanierds  to  take 
[us]  will  be  Heare  Shortly  but  them  We  Intend  to 
fight  and  not  be  taken  and  not  leeve  our  House  till  the 
month  is  out — and  then  go  to  Some  Secure  place  in 
the  mountains  and  Remain  traping  and  Hunting  till 
the  grass  groes  So  that  our  Horses  Can  travel  a  Cross 
the  grand  Pirarie  and  then  make  our  Way  Home 

thorsday  24th  Jany  1822 
the  Horses  Sent  out  Early  Simpson  to  atend  them — 
Slover  and  Robert  Fowler  Caught  one  bever — the 
men  maid  Soap  yesterday  and  this  day  the  are  Wash- 
ing their  Cloths  four  men  out  to  try  and  kill  Some 
der — Findley  Caught  one  bever  I  am  feerfull  of  send- 
ing to  any  great  distance  from  Camp  least  the  Span- 
ierds Shold  make  an  atack  on  us  in  their  absence — 
and  We  not  Strong  Enf  to  keep  them  off — In  the 
Evening  I  found  one  of  the  lost  traps  With  a  large 
bever  In  it  the  Horses  all  up  at  night  no  Word  from 
the  Conl — 


LOOKING  UP  FOUNTAIN  RIVER.  91 

Friday  25th  Jany  1822 
the  Horses  out  as  ushal — Ward  [and]  Bono  killed  a 
buffelow  bull  Braught  In  Some  of  the  meat  it  Was 
not  fatt — taylor  Road  out  to  Hunt  this  morning  Has 
not  Returned — the  Horses  all  up  at  night — 

Saterday  26th  Jany  1822 
Horses  out  as  ushal — this  morning  a  little  Cloudy  and 
looks  like  Rain  of  Which  We  Have  Seen  not  more 
than  Wold  Wet  a  mans  Shirt  Since  We  left  White 
River  in  October  last  taylor  Returned — but  killed 
nothing — the  Horses  all  up  at  night  two  Bever  Ware 
Caught  this  day — 

Sunday  27th  Jany  1822 
the  Horses  Sent  out  Early  I  too[k]  Pall  With  me  and 
Road  up  the  north  fork  on  the  Warm  Spring  branch 
about  three  miles  no  Ice  to  be  Seen  Except  a  little 
on  the  Shores  from  Hear  I  Crossed  the  Cuntry  to  the 
main  River  a  distance  of  a  bout  five  miles  and  Struct 
the  River  a  bout  three  miles  above  the  forkes  Heare 
the  River  Has  all  the  appeerence  of  a  Clos  Hard 
Winter  the  Ice  is  Close  and  Strong  all  over  the  River 
down  to  the  forks  While  below  as  far  as  We  Have 
been  for  a  few  days  the  there  Is  but  little  Ice  to  be 
Seen  and  a  long  the  Shores — the  Watter  from  the 
Warm  Spring  must  Shorly  be  the  Caus — five  Bever 


92 


"VERY  UNWELKEN  NUSE." 


Braught  Into  Camp  this  day  the  Horses  all  up  at 
night — 

monday  28th  Jany  1822 
the  Horses  out  as  ushal  and  about  ten  oclock  two  of 
the  men  Came  Running  In  to  Camp  and  Stated  the 
Indeans  Ware  Cetching  all  the  Horses — Which  to  us 
Was  very  unwelken  nuse  as  part  of  the  men  Ware  out 
So  that  We  Cold  not  Spair  men  anof  to  fight  them  on 
the  Pirarie — but  In  a  few  minets  the  Horses  took  the 
alarm  and  broak  from  the  Indeans  and  Came  Run- 
ing  to  Camp — and  Was  followed  by  the  Indeans.  but 
Heare  the  Horses  did  not  stop  but  took  to  the  Pirarie 
and  the  Indeans  gave  up  the  Chais — and  Came  to  us 
as  frends — the  Ware  the  Same  party  of  Crows  that 
Ware  With  us  a  few  days  back  and  that  Head  Stolen 
So  many  things  from  us  When  the  Ware  going  a 
Way  I  Emedetly  Sent  Some  men  after  the  Horses 
and  Head  them  Shet  up  In  the  Pen — In  the  main 
time  treeted  the  Indeans  frendly  give  them  Some  to- 
baco  to  smoke  and  boiled  meat  to  Eat  but  Put  all  the 
men  to  Wach  as  We  new  them  to  be  theves  It  appeer 
the  Have  been  In  pursute  of  the  Arrapoho  but  Have 
not  bee  able  to  tak  Horses  as  the  are  all  Returning  on 
foot — and  Will  take  our  Horses  if  the  Can  their  Hole 
party  is  now  Collected  and  the  are  twenty  Seven  In 
nomber  that  [is]  three  less  than  When  the  left  us — 
the  Say  the  Had  a  fight  With  the  Arrapoho  and  killed 


CROWS  AT  THEIR  OLD  TRICKS. 


93 


five  and  I  Sopose  the  lost  the  three  mising — but  now 
our  men  are  all  Collected  and  the  Horses  fasned  up 
in  the  Peen  We  think  our  Selves  a  full  match  for  this 
party — the  then  offered  me  Some  Roaps  in  Ex- 
chaing  for  tobaco  Which  I  gave  them  as  We  Wanted 
Some  Roaps  the  Chief  then  asken  me  for  Some  Pow- 
der Balls  Paint  and  virdegrees — I  gave  Him  a  ltle  of 
Each  think  Ing  that  if  I  gave  Him  What  He  asken  for 
the  Wold  not  Steel — but  in  that  I  was  mistaken  for 
When  the  begun  to  move  of  the  began  to  Steel  but 
two  kittles  being  mised  the  Cheef  maid  Serch  and 
found  [one]  the  other  He  Cold  not  find — and  Said 
the  fellow  that  took  it  Had  gon  off — the  now  appeer 
to  be  all  Readey  to  Start — and  about  ten  of  the  go  to 
the  Hors  Peen  and  Exmen  it  and  I  beleve  the  Intend 
takeing  all  the  Horses — I  ordeared  all  the  men  to 
Stand  Readey  With  His  [gun]  In  His  Hand  but  not 
to  use  it  till  I  Shot  first — my  Intention  Was  to  avoid  a 
fight  If  poseble — but  not  to  let  them  take  our  Horses 
— but  after  looking  Some  time  Round  the  Peen — the 
Cheef  Spoke  and  Said  you  aught  not  to  Stay  Heare 
the  Indeans  Will  take  your  Horses — go  to  mountains 
out  of  this  Ware  Road — I  am  the  White  mans  frend 
and  do  not  Want  the  Indeans  to  take  your  Horses — 
He  then  Shook  Hands  to  go  off — and  one  of  His 
Cheefs  Stole  a  bridle  and  put  it  in  His  bosem — Which 
I  seen  I  Pulled  oppen  His  Roab  and  took  the  Bridle 


94  READY  TO  FIGHT — PEACE  RESTORED. 


from  Him  the  then  moved  off  about  fifty  yds  and  all 
stoped  and  appeered  to  prepair  for  Battle  With  their 
Backs  towards  us — We  Ware  Ready  for  battle  but  in- 
tend [ed]  to  let  them  brake  the  peece  first  but  the 
Cheef  looking  Round  to  us  and  Pointing  to  the 
Pirarie  Called  out  tabebo  78  Which  We  understood  to 
be  White  men — and  Heare  a  new  difecuelty  presents 
its  self — these  Indeans  are  at  War  With  the  Span- 
ierds  and  if  that  Shold  be  Conl  glann  With  His  party 
the  Indeans  Will  Sopose  them  Spanierds  and  atack 
them — but  to  Prevent  that  two  of  our  men  Run  threw 
the  Indeans  and  Joined  the  men  and  Came  With  them 
up  to  Camp  and  the  Indeans  Receved  them  as  frends 
it  proved  to  be  Peno  and  Some  Spanierds  Sent  by 
Conl  glann  to  Conduct  us  to  the  Spanish  Settle  ment 
Wheare  the  govenor  and  People  Head  Reed  Him  on 
the  most  frendly  terms  and  thus  our  feer  from  that 
quarter  Ware  all  Removed  along  With  Peno  there 
Was  a  french  Indean  or  Half  Breed  that  Spoke  the 
Cro  language  We  now  Held  a  Counsel  as  our  talk 
Heare  to  fore  Was  mostly  by  Signs.  Heare  our 
terms  of  frendship  Was  Renued  the  Cheef  Stateing 
that  He  Hated  that  His  nation  Shold  be  Called 
theves  that  He  Wold  as  much  as  poseble  Hender 
them  from  Steeling  that  He  Had  Cursed  them  for 

78  Compare  "  '  tabba  bone! '  which  in  the  Shoshonee  language 
means  white  man,"  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  of  1893,  p.  480. 


START  FOR  THE  SPANISH  SETTLEMENT.  95 

Steeling  but  Cold  not  find  the  Kittle — Still  telling  us 
to  go  to  the  mountains  and  out  of  the  War  Path  that 
He  Had  Hard  Work  to  keep  His  People  from  Steel- 
ing our  Horses — at  the  Eand  of  the  talk  I  gave  them 
Some  Powder  and  tobaco — the  Shok  Hand  and 
moved  of! — the  Weather  Became  Cloudey  and  about 
dark  Began  to  Snow  a  little 

tusday  29th  Jany  1822 
Sent  the  Horses  out  Early  the  Hands  to  Packing  up 
the  goods  So  as  to  Set  out  in  the  morning  for  the 
Spanish  Settlement  agreable  to  advice  from  Conl 
glann  We  now  under  Stand  that  the  mackeson 
[Mexican]  provence  Has  de  Clared  Independance  of 
the  mother  Cuntry  and  is  desirous  of  a  traid  With  the 
people  of  the  united  States  Conl  glann  also  advises 
me  that  He  Has  obtained  premition  to  Hunt  to  trap 
and  traid  In  the  Spanish  provences — 

Wensday  30th  Jany  1822 
We  moved  about  ten  oclock  and  Steered  a  little  South 
of  the  3rd  mountain  over  a  level  plain  about  ten  miles 
to  a  Crick  a  bout  30  feet  Wide  and  Runs  north  East 
and  Heads  in  the  mountains  the  Bottoms  in  this  Crick 
is  from  three  to  four  Hunderd  yards  Wide  and  Well 
Covered  With  Cotten  Wood  and  Boxelder  the  Bluffs 
about  one  Hunderd  feet  High  frunted  With  [stone] 


g6  FROM  PUEBLO  TO  RIO  SAN  CARLOS. 


of  a  grayis  Coller  and  to  appeerence  Weell  adapted 
for  Building — the   Hunters   killed   two  Buffelow 
Bulk- 
s'3 25  West  10  miles  79 

Wensday  [Thursday]  31st  Jany  1822 
Set  out  about  10  oclock  and  at  about  two  miles 
[s]  truck  the  Spanish  Road  on  our  left  Hand — which 
leads  to  touse  [Taos,  N.  M.]  Which  We  followed  and 
at  five  miles  fell  on  a  branch  of  the  Crick  on  Which 
We  lay  last  night — the  meet  about  one  mile  below  our 
Camp — We  kept  up  this  Crick  and  out  at  the  Head  of 
it  and  over  a  low  Ridge  to  another  Branch  of  the  Same 
Crick  Which  Puts  in  below  the  forkes  of  the  other — 
We  Went  up  this  Crick  about  one  mile  and  Camped 
near  the  Mountain  makeing  about  10  miles  in  all  and 
a  little  West  of  South — the  Hunters  killed  three  deer 
and  four  Buffelow  one  of  Which  Was  two  Poor  for 
use  and  two  left  out  all  night  the  Hunters  being  alone 
and  not  able  to  bring  in  the  meet  and  it  Was  lost — 
deer  is  plenty  Heare  but  Wild  We  Will  Stay  Heare 
to  morrow  for  the  Purpose  of  killing  meet  to  load  the 
Spare  Horses — 

S°  25  West  10  miles  80 

79  From  Pueblo,  Col.,  to  a  point  on  the  Rio  San  Carlos  or  St. 
Charles  river,  the  creek  above  said,  which  is  struck  a  little  above 
the  confluence  of  the  Greenhorn  branch.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895, 
p.  451.    The  San  Carlos  is  Pike's  *'  3d  Fork  "  of  the  Arkansaw. 

80  Approximately  up  the  Greenhorn  to  a  point  near  lat.  380  N. 


UP  THE  GREENHORN. 


97 


thorsday  [Friday]  ist  Feby  1822 
Hunters  out  Early — killed  one  Cow  Buffelow  With 
In  four  Hunderd  yards  of  Camp — but  So  Poor  the 
meat  Was  not  Worth  Saveing — three  Bulls  killed  this 
day  and  three  Hors  loads  of  meat  Braught  to  Camp — 
two  deer  braught  into  Camp — it  is  now  Sunddown 
and  three  Hunters  out  yet — this  morning  Was 
Clouday  and  the  Snow  fell  about  2  Inches  deep — 
about  10  oclock  at  night  the  Hunters  Came  In  Have- 
ing  killed  three  Buffelow  and  loaded  their  Horses  to 
Camp  one  of  them  Slover — got  His  feet  a  lletle  frost 
Bitten — Conclude  to  Hunt  to  morrow  as  our  Horses 
Can  Carry  more  meet 

Friday  [Saturday]  2nd  Feby  1822 
up  Early  to  Start  the  Hunters  out — but  I  now  dis- 
cover the  men  are  all  feerfull  of  meeting  With  the  In- 
deans  as  We  are  near  the  War  Road  and  Have  maid 
So  much  Sign  In  the  Snow  that  the  Will  track  us  up 
and  Steel  our  Horses  Whill  We  are  So  much  Scat- 
tered as  not  to  be  able  to  defend  our  Selves — and  to 

The  sources  of  the  Greenhorn  are  several,  flowing  from  the 
mountain  of  the  same  name  (Spanish  Cuerno  Verde),  12,230  or 
12,341  feet  high,  near  the  southern  end  of  the  Wet  Mountain 
range. 

At  this  date  Fowler  duplicates  the  day  of  the  week,  which 
throws  him  out  till  Feb.  9,  when  he  corrects  himself.  But 
there  is  no  break  in  days  of  the  month. 


98 


PAST  APACHE  CREEK. 


be  left  Heare  Without  Horses — at  So  great  a  distance 
from  Home — there  is  no  knolede  of  What  destress 
We  might  Come  to — 

I  then  Con  Cluded  to  load  up  and  move  on  the 
Road  Which  We  did  and  on  loading  up  the  Horses 
We  find  seven  Hors  loads  of  meet  We  moved  on 
about  six  miles  along  the  futt  of  the  mountains  to  [a] 
Crick  81  Wheare  We  Camped  for  Wood  and  Watter 
— the  Hunters  killed  two  Bulls  this  day  but  two  Poor 
for  use — the  Snow  is  Heare  about  three  Inches  deep 
on  the  leavel  Pirarie  but  on  the  north  Side  of  the 
Hills  the  old  Snow  is  more  than  one  futt  deep  and  up 
the  mountains  it  is  Still  deeper — 

S°  25  West  6  miles 

Satterday  [Sunday]  3rd  Feby  1822 
Set  out  Early  about  South  along  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  for  about  ten  miles  to  a  Crick82  [and]  about 
five  miles  [further]  to  Whar  there  the  Remains  of  a 
Spanish  fort  to  apperence  ocepied  about  one  year 
back — Hear  We  Camped  83  for  the  night  Which  Was 

81  One  of  the  sources  of  the  Greenhorn. 

82  Apache  creek,  a  branch  of  Rio  Huerfano,  arising  with  sources 
of  the  Greenhorn  from  the  mountain  of  the  latter  name,  and 
flowing  eastward. 

83  Fowler's  distances  seem  to  me  short,  considering  how  soon 
he  is  to  make  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass  for  which  he  is  head- 
ing, and  I  cannot  locate  this  camp  exactly.  But  his  approximate 
position  is  easily  made  out.    He  is  about  to  round  the  southern 


ON  THE  TAOS  TRAIL. 


99 


Cold  and  Windey — So  that  the  two  men  kept  out  as 
gard  With  the  Horses — Was  like  to  frees — as  We 
Have  kept  two  men  garding  the  Horses  all  night 
Ever  Since  We  left  our  House  on  the  River  and  In- 
tend keeping  them  up  till  We  Rech  the  Spanish  Set- 
tlement We  this  day  maid  fifteen  miles — 

Sunday  [Monday]  4th  Feby  1822 
the  Wind  High  and  Very  Cold  We  set  out  Early  up 
the  valley  84  a  little  West  of  South  for  about  two  miles 
thence  up  the  Point  of  a  mountain  and  along  a  Ridge 
leave  High  Peeks  on  both  Sides  till  We  took  up  a 
High  Hill  and  threw  a  Pine  groave  Whar  the  Snow  is 
three  feet  deep — and  at  about  five  miles  from  Camp 
We  Came  to  the  top  or  Backbon  of  the  mountain 
Which  devides  the  Watters  of  the  arkensaw  from  the 
Delnort  Heare  the  Wind  Was  So  Cold  We  Scarce 
dare  look  Round — 

end  of  the  Wet  Mountain  range,  marked  by  Badito  Cone,  where 
the  Rio  Huerfano  flows  out  to  the  plains  ;  he  will  cross  this  river 
and  enter  upon  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  between  the  Sheep 
mts.  and  the  Veta  mts.  His  position  is  not  far  from  lat.  370  45'  ; 
place  called  St.  Mary's  in  the  vicinity.  Fowler  has  come  all 
along  at  an  increasing  distance  W.  of  the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R., 
his  route  being  the  old  "  Taos  Trail  "  which  the  Mexicans  fol- 
lowed in  passing  from  the  Rio  Grande  in  the  vicinity  of  Taos  to 
the  Arkansaw  at  or  near  present  Pueblo,  Col. 

84  Of  the  Huerfano  river,  which,  if  followed  up  W.,  would  take 
him  into  Huerfano  Park,  between  the  Wet  Mountain  range  and 
the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range. 


100  MAKING  SANGRE  DE  CRISTO  PASS. 


South  5  miles  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  85 
We  then  Steered  more  West  down  the  mountain  to 
a  branch 86  of  the  delnort — and  down  that  about 
South  for  nearly  ten  miles  to  Wheare  the  mountains 
are  much  lower  Whear  [we]  Capted  [camped]  for 
the  [night]  We  Hear  find  no  timber  but  Piny  and 
Roal  Some  old  logs  off  the  mountain  for  fier  Wood — 
Dick  Walters  is  mising  and  on  Inquirey  He  Had  lost 
His  Blanke[t]s  Comeing  down  the  mountain  and 
tyed  His  Hors  to  a  tree  and  gon  back  to  find  them  and 
that  His  Hors  broke  loos  and  overtook  the  Reer  party 
at  about  four  miles  from  Whare  He  tied  Him  the 
Hors  Was  Hear  Caut  and  tied  again  it  is  now  Sun- 
down and  no  Word  of  Dick  We  are  afraid  He  is  fro- 
sen  We  maid  fifteen  miles  this  day — Walters  got  to 
Camp  Some  time  In  the  night 
S°45  West  i  o  miles  87 

85  Making  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Pass,  from  the  watershed  of 
the  Huerfano  to  that  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte.  See  Pike, 
ed.  of  1895,  p.  492.  It  may  be  difficult  or  impossible  to  find  the 
record  of  any  earlier  passage  of  these  mountains  by  an  American 
party,  or  indeed  any  previous  itinerary  of  the  whole  Taos  Trail. 

86  Sangre  de  Cristo  creek,  tributary  to  Trinchera  creek,  a 
branch  of  the  Rio  Grande.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  494. 

87  Besides  the  distance  above  given  for  making  the  pass  to-day. 
Camp  on  Sangre  de  Cristo  creek,  which  flows  past  Fort  Garland 
into  Trinchera  creek,  in  the  San  Luis  valley.  That  branch  of 
the  D.  and  R.  G.  R.  R.  which  goes  through  the  Veta  pass  follows 
down  the  creek  on  which  Fowler  is  camped. 


INTO  SAN  LUIS  VALLEY. 


IOI 


Monday  [Tuesday]  5th  Feby  1822 
Set  out  Early  down  the  Crick  nearly  South  at  five 
miles  [leaving]  the  Crick  on  our  Right  Hand  Came 
to  Crick 88  Runing  West  With  Some  Cottenwood 
and  Willows  We  Crossed  this  Crick  Into  an  oppen 
plain 89  of  great  Exstent  We  Have  now  left  the 
mountains  behind  us  and  on  our  left  Hand  tho  there 
are  Some  to  be  Seen  at  a  great  distance  on  our  Right 
and  In  frunt — our  Cors  is  now  South  and  Crossing  a 
Small  Crick  at  three  miles  and  at  twelve  miles  far- 
ther Camped  on  a  Crick  90  40  feet  Wide  full  of  Run- 
ning Watter  Some  Cotten  Wood  trees  and  Willows 
We  this  day  maid  twenty  one  miles — South  21  miles 

tusday  [Wednesday]  6th  Feby  1822 
Set  out  the  Sun  about  one  Hour  High  nearly  South 
along  the  mountains  leave  them  on  our  left  and  pas- 
ing  Some  Small  mounds  91  on  the  Right  Which  Stand 
alone  in  the  Pirarie  at  fifteen  miles  Crosed  a  Small 
Crick  92  Runing  West  from  the  mountains  a  Cross  the 

88  Trinchera  creek.  Fowler  seems  to  have  left  Sangre  de  Cristo 
creek  at  a  point  about  4  m.  E.  of  Fort  Garland. 

89  A  portion  of  the  San  Luis  valley,  through  which  the  Rio 
Grande  flows  for  a  great  distance.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  492. 

90  Rio  Culebra,  next  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  E. 
See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  494. 

91  The  San  Luis  hills,  on  each  side  of  the  Rio  Grande  near  the 
Rio  Culebra. 

92  Rio  Costilla,  next  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande  from  the  E. 
See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  494.    On  reaching  lat.  370  N.  Fowler 


102 


AND  DOWN  THE  RIO  GRANDE. 


plain  and  In  the  Evening  Crossed  two  more  Small 
Streems  Riming  as  before  and  at  night  Camped  on  a 
Small  Crick  at  the  lower  Eand  of  this  large  [San 
Luis]  vally  Heare  the  mountain  Puts  a  Cross  the 
Plain  to  the  River  Delnort  about  6  miles  to  our  Right 
as  We  Have  been  going  down  that  River  at  about 
the  above  distance  Ever  Since  We  Came  in  to  this 
plain — on  this  Crick  there  Is  a  Small  Spanish  vilege 
but  abandoned  by  the  Inhabetance  for  feer  of  the  In- 
deans  now  at  War  With  them  We  this  day  troted  the 
Horses  more  than  Half  the  time  and  maid  thirty  miles 
nor  did  We  Stop  till  In  the  night 
South  30  miles — 

Wensday  [Thursday]  7th  Feby  1822 
We  Set  [out]  at  an  Early  Hour  Crossing  a  Crick  93 
Well  adapted  for  mills  of  Ither  the  Saw  or  the  grind- 
ing and  plenty  of  tall  Pitch  Pine — We  Heare  pro- 
ceded  up  the  Side  of  a  High  mountain  and  Continue- 
ing  alonge  the  Side  of  it  the  River  Runing  Close  under 
the  futt  of  it  So  that  the  Was  no  other  Way  to  pass 
— We  Continued  over  Ruff  grounds  and  deet  guters 

passes  from  Colorado  into  New  Mexico.  The  principal  landmark 
is  Ute  peak,  isolated  in  the  plain,  a  little  south  of  the  boundary 
and  of  Rio  Costilla,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande,  alt.  about 
10,000  feet. 

93  Apparently  Colorado  creek,  another  tributary  of  the  Rio 
Grande  from  the  E. 


STRUCK  BY  TAOS  LIGHTNING.  103 

for  nine  miles  to  a  Small  vilege  94  on  a  Crick  94 — 
Heare  We  Capped  [camped]  in  the  vileg  for  the  night 
— and  our  gides  left  us  as  Well  as  the  Intarpreter  after 
Shewing  us  Into  a  Hous  as  He  Said  of  Honest  People 
— and  telling  on  ordors  that  I  Had  no  money  but 
wold  pay  in  Such  artickels  as  We  Had  the  land  lord 
Was  verry  Kind  I  obtained  Some  taffe  95  for  the  men 
as  the  Have  not  tasted  any  Sperits  Since  We  left  the 
virdegree  He  put  all  our  goods  in  a  dark  Room  and 
locked  them  up — and  We  lodged  in  an  outer  Room 
— the  Inturpreter  and  guide  promised  us  to  Return 
to  us  Early — S°  30  West  9  miles 

thorsday  [Friday]  8th  Feby  1822 
We  Had  the  Horses  up  Early  and  With  Some  defe- 
queelty  got  out  the  Saddles  and  Bridles — and  then 
atempted  to  Settle  the  Bill  but  the  Spanierd  Ither 
Cold  not  or  Wold  not  under  Stand  me  I  Soposed  the 
amt  about  Six  dollers — and  layed  ten  Dollers  Worth 
of  Knives  and  tobaco — Which  He  took  up  and  put  a 
Way  I  demanded  the  goods  but  to  no  purpose  He 

94  San  Cristobal — or  the  next  village  below,  Los  Montes.  The 
"  deet  guters  "  of  the  text  are  the  arroyos  which  Fowler  intended 
to  call  deep  gutters. 

95  See  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed.  of  1893,  p.  215,  for  a  similar  name  of 
ardent  spirits,  apparently  the  same  word  as  ratafia.  "What 
Fowler  procured  was  aguardiente  de  Taos,  a  fiery  fluid  distilled 
at  San  Fernandez  from  native  wheat,  and  soon  too  well  known 
as  "  Taos  lightning." 


104 


SAN  FERNANDEZ  Y  PUEBLO  DE  TAOS. 


Wold  not  let  me  Have  them  Still  Saying  that  Bat- 
tees  96  told  Him  not  to  let  the  goods  go  till  He  Came 
now  this  Battees  Was  one  of  the  men  Imployed  Heare 
and  Sent  by  Conl  glann  to  asist  us  over  the  mountain 
— and  I  began  to  ConClude  that  Some  vilenus  Skeem 
Was  at  Worke  betwen  Him  and  the  landlord  as  He 
did  not  Return  as  He  promised — but  after  about  three 
Hours  disputeing  and  Indevering  to  get  the  goods  I 
Seen  that  nothing  but  force  Wold  do  I  Steped  to  my 
gun  and  So  did  Robert  Fowler  I  told  the  men  to  do 
the  Same — and  [when]  I  Seen  all  Readey  I  Spoke 
loud  Saying  I  Wold  Have  the  goods  and  Shoing  much 
anger — the  Spanierd  got  in  a  better  umer  and  gave 
up  the  goods — So  We  loaded  and  moved  on  Crossing 
a  Crick  Which  Run  West  threw  the  villege  Steered 
a  little  South  of  East  about  twelve  miles  over  a  High 
Butifull  plain  to  the  villege  of  St  Flander  97 — In  the 
nibor  Hood  of  touse.98  about  two  miles  from  the  vil- 

96  Baptiste  Roy,  the  interpreter,  who  had  gone  on  to  Santa  Fe 
with  Col.  Glenn. 

97  San  Fernandez  de  Taos,  the  Mexican  village  about  2  m.  from 
the  Indian  Pueblo  de  Taos.  Gregg  states  that  the  first  white 
settler  was  a  Spaniard  named  Pan  do,  ca.  1745.  See  Pike,  ed.  of 
1895,  p.  598. 

98  Pueblo  de  Taos,  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  of 
Taos,  consisting  then  as  now  of  two  casas  grandes — great  adobe 
buildings  with  the  streamlet  between  them.  Readers  who  would 
like  a  little  local  color  here  will  find  it  well  laid  on  in  chaps. 


COLONEL  GLENN  MET. 


I05 


lege  We  meet  With  Conl  glann  at  the  Crossing  of  a 
Crick  99  Which  [ran]  West — on  our  a  Rivel  at  the 
villege  We  mised  one  of  the  Hors  loads  of  meet 
and  on  Inquiery  it  was  found  that  one  of  the 
Spanierds  Head  taken  it  of  to  His  own  Hous 
at  about  three  miles  distance  So  We  lost  it 
there  being  no  moad  of  Recovering  it — He  was 
one  of  the  men  Sent  out  to  asist  us  over  the 
mountains  and  that  morning  With  out  being  notised 
put  the  load  on  His  own  Hors — and  falling  behind 
maid  His  Eskape  With  the  meet — We  Heare  found 
the  people  extremly  poor,  and  Bread  Stuff  Coud  not 
be  Head  amongest  them  as  the  Said  the  grass  hopers 
Head  Eat  up  all  their  grain  for  the  last  two  years  and 
that  the  Head  to  Pack  all  their  grain  about  one  Hun- 
derd  miles — for  their  own  use — We  found  them 
Eaqually  Scarce  of  meet  and  Ware  offered  one  quarter 
of  a  doller  a  bound  for  the  meet  We  Braght  in  With 
us — but  this  We  Cold  not  spair  and  Haveing  nothing 
Els  to  eat  it  Will  not  last  us  long — and  no  Bread  Stuff 
to  be  got  Heare  We  must  Soon  leave  this  Reeched 
place — and  now  in  the  dead  of  Winter  and  the  Waters 
frosen  tite  Exsept  the  River  Delnort  Which  is  Said 

xiii-xviii  of  Garrard's  Wah-to-yah.  The  youthful  author  wit- 
nessed the  executions  which  followed  the  battle  of  Taos  in  1847. 

89  Pueblo  creek,  the  northern  one  of  two  main  forks  of  Taos 
creek. 


I06  FANDANGO  HEADED  BY  THE  PRIEST. 

to  be  oppen  to  Which  We  Intend  to  go  as  Soon  as 
poseble  to  Cetch  Bever  to  live  on  as  there  is  no  other 
game  In  this  part  of  the  Cuntry — 

Satterday  9th  Feby  1822 
Remained  In  the  villedge  all  day  and  In  the  Evening 
there  Was  a  Colletion  [of  the]  men  and  Ladys  of  the 
Spanyerds  Had  a  fandango  in  our  House  Wheare 
the  appeered  to  Injoy  them  Selves  With  the  Prest  at 
their  [head] — to  a  great  degree — 

Sunday  10th  Feby  1822 
Remained  In  the  villege  all  day  But  Sent  out  two 
parteys  of  trapes  to  Remain  out  till  the  first  of  may 
next — Hear  it  may  be  Remembered  that  a  Capten  and 
and  Sixty  men  of  the  Spanierds  Came  in  from  the 
arkensaw  With  Conl  glann  and  little  party — and  now 
the  Same  Capten  and  party  Has  Crossed  the  moun- 
taines  again — but  before  He  let  [left]  Home  Has  In- 
terdused  Conl  glann  and  Mr.  Roy  to  His  family  Con- 
sisting a  Wife  and  two  daughters  both  young  Woman 
the  old  lady  Haveing  paid  us  a  visid  In  the  morning 
appered  In  a  few  minet  quite  formiler  and  as  Well 
aquainted  With  us  as  If  She  Head  knone  us  for  sev- 
eral years  tho  She  did  not  Stay  more  than  about  Half 
an  Hour — But  in  the  after  noon  a  boy  Came  With  a 
mesege  for  Conl  glann  mr  Roy  and  the  negro.  Who 


TEMPTATION  OF  SAINT  PAUL. 


107 


after  Some  Ceremony  acCompanyed  the  two  gentle- 
men but  With  Some  Reluctance  aledgeing  that  He 
Was  not  Settesfyed  to  go  With  out  His  master 
aledgeing  as  the  ladys  appeerd  more  atached  to  Him 
than  [to]  the  White  men — that  there  might  be  Some 
mischeef  Intended  and  uder  those  doupts  He  Went 
as  I  before  Stated  and  from  the  Statement  of  those 
two  gentlemen  I  Will  Indevour  to  State  What  fol- 
lowed— it  Is  a  Custom  With  the  Spanierds  When  In- 
terdused  to  Imbrace  With  a  Close  Huge — this  Cere- 
money  So  Imbareshed  Pall  and  maid  Him  So  Shaimed 
that  I  [if]  a  Small  Hole  Cold  Have  been  found  He 
Wold  Sartainly  Crept  Into  it.  but  unfortnetly  there 
Was  no  Such  place  to  be  found,  and  the  trap  door 
threw  Which  the  desended  Into  the  Room  being  Shut 
down  [for  the  Went  In  at  the  top  of  the  House]1 
there  Was  no  Poseble  Way  for  Him  to  make  His  Es- 
cape— now  the  Haveing  but  one  Beed  in  the  House 
and  that  So  large  as  to  be  Cappeble  of  Holding  the 
three  Copple  of  poson — there  Ware  all  to  lodge  to 
geather  and  the  mother  of  the  daughters  being  oldest 
Had  of  Corse  the  ferst  Chois  of  Bows,  and  took  pall 
for  Hir  Chap  takeing  Hold  of  Him  and  drawing 
Him  to  the  beed  Side  Sot  Him  down  With  Hir  arms 
Round  His  Sholders.  and  gave  Him  a  Kis  from[?] 
Sliped  Hir  Hand  down  Into  His  Britches — but  it 

1  Square  brackets  in  the  original  MS. 


108  START  ON  A  TRAPPING  TOUR. 

Wold  take  amuch  abeler  Hand  than  mine  to  discribe 
palls  feelings  at  this  time  being  naturly  a  little  Releg- 
ous  modest  and  Bashfull  He  Sot  as  near  the  wall  as 
Was  Poseble  and  it  may  be  Soposed  He  Indevoured 
to  Creep  Into  it  for  Such  Was  His  atachment  to  the 
old  lady  that  he  kept  His  [eyes]  turned  Constently 
up  to  the  trap  door — and  to  His  great  Joy  Some  per- 
son oppened  it  to  Come  In  to  the  Same  Room — But 
Pall  no  Sooner  Saw  the  light  [for  their  Rooms  are 
dark]  2  than  He  Sprang  from  the  old  lady  and  Was 
out  In  an  Instent — and  maid  to  our  lodgeing  as  fast 
as  Poseble  Wheare  the  other  two  Soon  followed  and 
told  What  Head  Happened  to  Pall 

monday  nth  Feby  1822 
Remained  in  the  vilege  all  day  nothin  meterel  took 
place. 

tusday  12th  Feby  1822 
I  Set  out  on  a  traping  tower  With  Robert  Fowler — 
Taylor  Walters  and  Pall  With  Eight  Horses  We 
Went  South  West  about  ten  miles  to  the  bank  of  the 
River  [Rio  Grande] — Which  Bank  or  Bluf  Was  So 
High  We  Cold  see  no  Chance  of  getting  down  With 
the  Horses  for  We  looked  some  time  before  We  Cold 
see  the  River  the  distance  Was  So  great — and  the 
River  looked  like  a  Small  Spring  Branch  that  a  man 

2  Square  brackets  in  the  original  MS. 


THE  RIO  GRANDE  AT   TAOS  CREEK.  IO9 

might  Easely  Step  over — and  Head  We  not  been  told 
that  the  River  Was  In  that  gap  We  Cold  not  Have 
beleved  the  River  Was  there  at  all — We  then  Pased 
down  a  long  the  Bluff  about  two  miles  and  found  a 
path  Way  down  the  mountain — the  Bluf  or  River 
Bank  as  you  may  Chose  to  Call  it  Which  path  We 
took  but  With  great  danger  to  our  Horses  and  In 
about  two  Hours  going  down  that  mountain  We  got 
to  the  River  Which  is  about  one  Hunderd  yds  Wide 
and  is  fordable  With  Horses — and  now  takeing  a 
vew  of  the  River  I  find  it  is  at  least  one  thousand  feet 
below  the  leavel  of  Pirarie.  and  is  bound  With  a  bluf 
of  Rocks  on  Each  Side  mostly  Parpendickeler  So  that 
there  Is  but  few  plases  that  Ither  man  or  Beast  asend 
them — We  are  now  at  the  mouth  of  the  [Taos]  Crick 
Which  Pases  threw  touse  Heare  is  two  Houses  With 
Each  one  family  of  Spanierds  and  it  is  not  Poseble  the 
Have  more  than  Half  an  acer  of  ground  to  live  on. 
and  Shold  a  Rock  Breake  loos  and  Come  down  Wold 
destroy  the  Hole  Settlement 
S°  45  West  10  to  the  River 


Wensday  13th  Feby  1822 
Robert  Fowler  and  my  Self  Went  down  the  River 
about  Six  miles  on  foot  to  look  for  Bever  no  Sign  of 
any  the  River  is  So  bound  With  Rocks  that  With 
much  difequaty  We  maid  our  Way  Heare  We  found 


I IO 


CROSSING  AT  CIENEGUILLA. 


a  nother  Small  villege  3  With  Eight  or  ten  Houses  and 
a  foot  Bridge  a  Cross  the  River  over  Which  We  Went 
and  Heare  We  found  a  Path  up  the  River  Hills  Which 
[were]  full  as  High  as  Wheare  We  first  Came  to  it 
But  Heare  the  Rocks  are  So  broken  that  a  Papth 
Way  is  found  up  threw  them  after  a  long  and  tedeous 
Walk  We  a  Rived  at  the  top  of  the  Hil  and  found  our 
Selves  on  oppen  leave  [1]  Pirarie  of  from  forty  to  fifty 
miles  Wide.  We  are  now  on  the  West  Side  of  the 
River  and  Went  up  along  the  Bluf  about  two  miles 
and  Came  to  a  dry  Crick  Which  put  into  the  River 
but  the  Rocks  Ware  So  High  on  Each  Side  that  We 
Walked  up  it  about  one  Hour  before  We  found  any 
Poseble  Chance  of  Crossing  it  after  Which  We  pased 
over  the  leavel  Pirarie  opset  our  Camp  4  Wheare  We 
found  a  path  leading  down  threw  the  Rocks  to  the 
River  and  it  appeers  that  there  is  no  poseble  Chance 
of  going  up  or  down  these  Clifts  but  at  those  paths — 
for  as  Soon  as  you  Come  to  the  top  of  these  Clifts  and 
look  down  you  are  so  struck  With  Horror  that  you 
Will  Retret  In  an  Instant 

thorsday  14th  Feby  1822 
Crosed  the  River  Early  and  Wound  up  the  mountain 
along  a  path  maid  By  the  Spanierds  among  the  Rocks 

3  Cieneguilla — to  be  distinguished  from  a  place  of  the  same 
name  S.  W.  of  Santa  Fe. 

4  On  Feb.  12,  at  the  mouth  of  Taos  creek. 


ROUTE  NORTH  UP  RIGHT  SIDE  OF  RIVER.  Ill 

till  We  arived  at  the  top  in  the  oppen  World  and 
Steereing  to  the  north  leaveing  the  River  on  our 
Right  Hand  and  Camped  at  night  opesed  the  villege 
Wheare  We  Head  the  defequeelty  Withe  the  land 
lord  We  this  day  maid  about  fourteen  5  miles — and 
found  no  Watter  for  our  Horses  Sent  two  Kittles 
down  to  the  River  for  Watter  Heare  We  find  the 
mountain  about  the  Same  Hight  as  Wheare  We 
Ca[m]ped  last  night  With  a  path  up  threw  the  Rocks 
maid  by  the  People  of  the  villege  on  the  East  side — 
14  miles 

Friday  15th  Feby  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  up  the  margin  of  the  River  about 
twelve  miles  to  the  point  of  a  mountain  Cut  off  by  the 
River  forming  a  parpendickelor  Bluff  of  about  fifteen 
Hunderd  feet  High — over  this  mountain  We  Head 
to  Clime  on  the  top  of  Which  the  Snow  Was  nee 
deep — tho  there  Was  none  on  the  Pirarie  We  Went 
four  miles  farther  and  Camped  on  the  margen  of  the 
River  Sent  down  two  kittles  for  Watter  and  sot  two 
bever  traps — Heare  the  Rocks  or  Bluffs  are  a  little 
Broken  and  not  quite  so  High  as  Wheare  We  Stayed 
the  two  nights  past — tho  Heare  they  are  about  nine 
Hunderd  feet  High  and  So  Steep — Exsept  the  Spot 

5  See  back,  date  of  Feb.  8  :  14  m.  from  the  mouth  of  Taos 
creek  would  bring  him  about  to  Los  Montes,  but  not  to  San 
Cristobal. 


112      ROUTE  CONTINUED  UP  THE  RIO  GRANDE. 

Wheare  Sent  down  the  kittles  that  a  Squerel  Cold  not 
Climb  them — our  distance  this  day  is  Sixteen  miles 
— 16  miles 

Satterday  16th  Feby  1822 
found  one  Bever  in  a  trap  this  morning  Sott  the  two 
traps  again  and  moved  up  the  River  about  Six  miles 
and  Ca[m]ped  on  the  margen  of  the  River  the  Rocks 
not  So  High  as  last  night  but  So  Steep  that  We  Cold 
not  git  Watter  from  the  River  and  melted  Snow  for 
that  Purpose  Which  We  found  among  Some  Rocks 
We  found  some  dry  Ceders  for  her  Wood — 6  miles 

Sunday  17th  Feby  1822 
Very  Cold  Haveing  Snowed  a  little  In  the  fore  part 
of  the  night  Sent  for  the  two  Bever  traps — the  River 
Had  frosen  over  them  So  that  We  Caught  nothing — 
Seen  two  men  on  Hors  Back  at  a  great  distance  So- 
posed  to  be  Indeans — the  Road  off  as  fast  as  their 
Horses  Cold  Carry  them — We  this  day  Seen  Six  Wild 
Horses  tho  two  of  them  must  Have  been  In  Hands  as 
their  tails  Ware  Bobed  Short — We  find  no  game  yet 
and  our  Stock  of  provetion  Is  nearly  out — 

monday  18th  Feby  1822 
We  Sot  out  Early  up  the  River  and  at  about  12  miles 
Came  to  the  upper  Eand  of  the  High  Rocks  6  and 

6  Fowler  has  come  by  his  count  48  m.  from  the  mouth  of 
Taos  creek,  N.  along  the  right  or  W.  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande, 


I 


ROUTE  CONTINUED  UP  THE  RIO  GRANDE.      II 3 

going  down  a  gradual  decent  three  or  four  Hunderd 
yds  Came  to  a  low  Bottom  on  the  River  the  Bank  be- 
ing low  not  more  than  six  or  Eight  [feet]  High  the 
River  butifull  and  a  bout  one  Hundred  yds  Wide — 
But  all  frosen  up  tite — We  Heare  got  Watter  for  the 
Horses — it  Is  Heare  proper  to  Remark  that  the 
River  as  far  as  We  Have  Seen  it  pasing  down  be- 
twen  the  High  Rocks  or  mountains — dose  not  move 
In  a  very  gentle  manner  as  It  appeers  much  Impeded 
by  the  Rocks  falling  from  Each  Side,  and  is  forsed  for- 
ward dashing  from  one  Rock  over  others  In  almost 
one  Continued  foam  the  Hole  distance  threw  the 
mountains  Which  from  What  I  Can  larn  is  about 
seventy  miles  When  it  appeers  below  In  an 
oppen  Cuntry — I  Have  no  doubt  but  the  River 
from  the  Head  of  those  Rocks  up  for  about 
one  Hundred  miles  Has  once  been  a  lake  of  about 
from  forty  to  fifty  miles  Wide  and  about  two  Hun- 
derd feet  deep — and  that  the  running  and  dashing  of 
the  Watter  Has  Woren  a  Way  the  Rocks  So  as  to 
form  the  present  Chanel — We  this  day  Crosed  a  dry 
Branch.    But  Have  not  Seen  one  Streem  of  Watter 

which  runs  in  a  canon  the  whole  of  this  way.  This  distance  is 
about  right  to  take  him  past  the  several  special  elevations 
between  which  and  the  river  he  passes,  known  as  Cerros  Taoses, 
San  Cristobal,  Montoso,  Chine,  and  Olla  ;  when  he  reaches  the 
low  ground  of  which  he  speaks,  there  are  a  crossing  of  the 
river,  cattle  ranch,  etc.    See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  597,  598. 


ii4 


TO  THE  RIO  CONEJOS. 


In  all  the  distance  We  Have  Came  up  on  the  [west] 
Side  We  travled  nor  Cold  ourHorses  get  one  drop  of 
Watter  in  all  that  distance  but  the  Eat  Snow  When 
the  Cold  get  it — We  Went  up  the  River  a  bout  Six 
miles  further  and  Camped  on  the  East  Side  in  a  Small 
grove  of  Cotten  Wood  trees  the  Ice  In  [is]  now  so 
Strong  the  Horses  Can  Cross  at  pleasure — We  find 
nothing  to  kill  Exsept  two  of  the  Big  Horned  Sheep 
[Ovis  montana]  one  of  Which  Robert  Fowler  shot  but 
Cold  not  git  it — 

We  this  day  maid  Eighteen  miles  our  Corse  about 
north  all  the  Wfay  up  the  River — North  54  miles  7 

tusday  19th  Feby  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  up  along  the  West  Side  of  the 
River  and  at  two  miles  Came  to  High  Short  Hills 
Which  Put  In  Cloce  to  the  River  on  both  Sides  and 
Continu  for  about  three  miles  Wheare  We  find  Wide 
and  low  Bottoms — Heare  We  See  timber  a  Head 
Wheare  We  Will  Indevour  to  Camp  this  night — and 
at  ten  miles  We  Came  to  Slovers  party  In  Camped 
about  two  miles  up  Pikes  forke  of  the  Delnort  and 
about  three  miles  below  His  Block  House  Wheare  He 
Was  taken  by  the  Spanierds — this  fork  Is  oppen 

7  That  is,  from  the  mouth  of  Taos  creek  to  present  camp — and 
this  is  about  right  for  the  vicinity  of  Ute  peak,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  4  m.  S.  of  the  boundary  of  Colorado  (lat.  370  N.). 


RIOS  CONEJOS,  LA  JARA,  Y  ALAMOSA.  1 1 5 

ocationed  by  the  large  Warm  Spring  Spoken  of  In 
Pikes  Jurnal  this  party  Has  Caught  Some  Bever  and 
their  Is  Sign  of  more  in  the  River  our  Cors  this  day 
Was  north  30  West  ten  miles — there  is  plenty  of  Cot- 
ten  Wood  trees  and  Willowes  along  this  but  Scarce  a 
tree  on  the  main  River 
N  30  West  10  miles  8 

Wensday  20th  Feby  1822 
We  moved  up  the  River  threw  the  Bottom  Which  is 
about  fifty  miles  Wide  In  Cluding  the  second  Bottom 
leavel  and  Rich  and  not  a  tree  to  be  Seen  Exsept  a 
few  along  the  River  bank — We  maid  twelve  miles, 
and  Camped  on  the  East  Side  among  Some  Willows 
and  geathered  drift  Wood  for  our  fier — the  Weather 
Is  very  Cold  the  Snow  fell  last  night  about  two  Inches 
deep — Cors  north  12  miles  9  See  nothing  to  kill 

8  Neither  this  course  nor  this  distance  would  bring  Fowler  to 
the  Rio  Conejos  from  any  point  on  the  Rio  Grande  to  which  the 
previous  mileages  appear  to  have  advanced  him.  The  distance 
is  15  m.  on  an  air  line  due  N.  along  the  meridian  of  1050  45'  from 
Myer's  or  Colona's  ferry  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Conejos  ;  hence 
we  infer  that  Fowler  has  come  up  the  Rio  Grande  further  than 
his  previous  mileages  would  indicate.  But  there  is  no  doubt, 
from  his  description  in  the  above  interesting  passage,  that  he  is 
on  the  Rio  Conejos  ;  and  2  m.  up  it  would  be  3  m.  below  Pike's 
stockade  of  1807,  as  he  says.  See  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  495  and 
following,  and  p.  595. 

9  Passing  La  Jara  and  Alamosa  creeks  between  4  and  6  m. 


Il6         HEADING  FOR  THE  SAN  JUAN  RANGE. 


thorsday  21st  Feby  1822 
Crosed  over  on  the  Ice  and  up  the  West  Side  of  the 
River  the  timber  and  Brush  Is  now  plenty  In  the  low 
bottoms  Which  are  from  two  to  four  miles  Wide  tho 
these  are  not  all  Covered  With  timber — and  Hear 
there  Is  on  both  Sides  What  We  Call  a  second  bot- 
tom a  little  Higher  than  the  first — the  Hole  now 
makeing  a  distance  of  from  30  to  40  miles  now  Since 
We  Have  Came  to  the  timber  We  find  much  Sign  of 
Bever — But  the  River  Is  So  frosen  that  We  Cannot 
ketch  them  We  Camped  on  the  East  Side  of  the 
River  and  Conclude  to  go  to  the  West  mountains  10 
In  the  morning  and  try  to  kill  meet  to  Eat  as  our  pro- 
vetions  are  all  gon — nor  Have  We  Seen  any  kind  of 
game  Since  We  left  Slovers  party  N  45  West  18 
miles 

Friday  22nd  Feby  1822 
Robert  Fowler  and  my  self  Set  out  Early  on  futt  for 
the  West  mountains  and  Steered  for  a  Small  streek  of 
Brush  Whear  We  Exspect  to  find  Watter  as  that  kind 
of  Brush  dos  not  grow  With  out  We  on  the  Way  See 
Eight  [y]  or  90  Wild  Horses  and  In  devour  to  git 
In  Shot  distance  so  as  to  kill  one  to  Eat — but  In  that 

from  the  Rio  Conejos.  One  of  these,  probably  La  Jara,  is  called 
Willow  creek  on  April  28,  p.  135. 

10  The  San  Juan  range  of  mountains,  bounding  the  San  Luis 
valley  on  the  W.,  whence  the  Rio  Grande  issues  into  that  valley 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  place  called  Del  Norte. 


/ 


THE  SAN   JUAN  MOUNTAINS.  117 

We  failed  for  Whin  We  Ware  at  about  one  miles  dis- 
tanes  the  Seen  us  and  all  Run  off — We  Went  to  the 
mountain  and  Camped  by  the  Side  of  a  large  Rock 
Wheare  We  [found]  both  Wood  and  Watter  Was 
plenty  but  nothing  to  Eat  Pall  and  taylor  Came  up 
With  the  Horses  We  all  Went  up  the  mountains 
to  Hunt  But  See  nothing  to  kill — but  there  Was 
Some  Sign  of  the  Big  Horned  Sheep  on  the 
Sides  of  the  mountain  amongst  the  Short  Pine 
Which  Is  plenty  Heare  In  Some  plases — the  Weather 
Is  Cold  and  Some  flying  Clouds — our  Corse  Was  this 
day  West  12  miles — We  Heare  found  by  going  up 
the  mountain  the  Snow  Was  So  deep  We  Cold  not 
travel  tho  there  Was  little  or  none  In  the  valey 
West  12  miles  11 

Satterday  23rd  Feby  1822 
We  Conclude  to  go  to  the  River  and  up  it  till  We 
find  game — Pall  and  my  Self  take  the  Horses  and 
Steerd  north  to  the  River  about  ten  miles  Robert 
Fowler  and  Taylor  out  on  the  Hunt — Camped  on  the 
West  Side  of  the  River — nothing  killed  this  day — 
north  10  miles  [to]  West  Side  of  the  River  12 

11  Fowler  has  fetched  up  against  the  San  Juan  range  some- 
where about  the  foot  of  Pintada  peak,  whence  creeks  called  Pie- 
dra  Pintada,  San  Francisco,  and  others,  flow  E.  and  N.  into  the 
Rio  Grande.    The  above  "  large  rock  "  is  Hanging  Rock  on  p.  126. 

12  In  the  vicinity  of  La  Loma  del  Norte,  Rio  Grande  Co. 


u8 


NOTHING  TO  EAT. 


Sunday  24th  Feby  1822 
nothing  to  Eat — Taylor  Purposes  to  take  Robert 
Fowlers  Hors  and  Ride  Hunting  Which  Was  agread 
to  He  Went  on  the  West  Side  of  the  River  I  Went 
my  Self  on  the  East  Side  up  the  River  about  ten  miles 
to  the  Short  Hills  Seen  Some  Caberey  but  killed 
nothing  Taylor  did  not  Return  at  night — noth- 
ing to  Eat  but  look  at  Each  other  With  Hungrey 
faceses 

monday  25th  Feby  1822 
this  morning  Taylor  Came  Into  Camp  on  futt  Have- 
ing  lost  the  Hors  With  Sadie  Bridle  Blankets  nek 
Roap  and  all  In  the  first  Short  Hills  on  the  West 
Side  of  the  River  at  Some  ten  or  twelve  miles  up — and 
that  He  Said  He  Head  Seen  many  deer  Elk  and  Bares 
— to  Which  place  We  moved  as  fast  as  poseble  and 
got  there  about  3  oclock  Seen  a  great  many  deer  but 
killed  nothing — our  Corse  West  ten  miles 


tusday  26th  Feby  1822 
all  out  and  Hunt  till  about  10  oclock  but  killed  noth- 
ing tho  Seen  Some  deer — We  now  begin  to  think  of 
killing  one  of  our  Horses — but  first  move  to  a  fresh 
Camp  Wheare  We  Have  not  disturbed  the  game  and 
try  In  the  Evening  again  to  kill  Something  We  move 


/ 


HORSE  AND  DEER  MEAT.  1 19 

about  two  miles  to  the  River — as  We  Were  now 
Camped  on  a  Small  Crick 13 — and  put  out  the  Horses 
Robert  and  my  Self  took  our  guns  to  Hunt  on  futt  as 
there  Was  much  timber  land  Heare — but  Taylor  and 
Pall  Began  to  Complain  of  Hunger  of  Which  Taylor 
began  gro  black  In  the  face  and  Pall  Was  gitting 
White  With  the  Same  Complaint  and  the  both 
thaught  the  Hors  Shold  be  killed,  to  Which  Robert 
and  my  Self  Consented  and  gave  them  liberty  to  kill 
Him  as  Soon  as  the  Cold — but  not  Willing  to  See 
that  operation  Robert  and  my  Self  Went  off  to 
Hunt  but  We  Soon  Heard  the  gun  fier  that  We  So- 
posed  to  kill  the  Hors — but  We  kept  our  Corse  down 
the  River  on  the  Ice  as  the  Brush  Was  thick  and  dry 
So  that  If  We  Went  on  land  We  maid  So  much  nois 
that  We  Could  not  git  neer  the  game — but  We  Head 
not  gon  far  before  Som  deer  Was  Seen  In  the  Brush 
and  Robert  Went  after  them  and  killed  two  of  them 
He  then  Went  to  Camp  for  a  Hors  leaveing  me  to 
take  Care  of  the  deer — but  When  He  got  to  Camp 
He  found  one  of  the  Horses  about  Half  Skined — 
but  another  Was  Soon  got  up  and  the  deer  Caryed  to 
Camp  Wheare  We  Soon  Head  Suntious  feest  and 
much  Plesentness  now  appeered  Round  the  her  tho 
We  lamented  the  fate  of  the  Poor  Hors — as  now 

13  Perhaps  Wolf  creek,  making  down  from  Del  Norte  peak,  or 
another  in  that  vicinity. 


120 


PAUL  KILLS  HIS  FIRST  DEER. 


[we]  Head  no  use  for  His  flesh  Which  feel  a  pray  to 
the  Birds  and  Wolves 

Wensday  27th  Feby  1822 
Sent  Pall  out  Early  to  look  for  the  Horses  We  Soon 
Heard  the  Report  of  gun  and  not  long  after  Pall  Came 
In  With  a  deer  on  His  back  the  first  He  Ever  killed 
In  His  life — We  Have  meet  plenty  and  the  Weather 
Is  now  moderate  Some  Holes  appeer  a  longe  Shore 
In  the  Ice  out  at  Which  the  bever  Workes  We  Sot 
some  traps  this  day — 

thorsday  28th  Feby  1822 
Caught  one  bever — and  Hunted  for  the  lost  Hors — 
but  Have  not  found  Him — 

Friday  1st  march  1822 
Taylor  Caught  one  Bever — Hunted  for  the  lost  Hors 
— met  With  vanbeber  and  two  of  His  party  the  had 
found  our  lost  Hors — the  Remained  at  our  Camp  that 
night  the  Hors  Head  lost  all  but  the  Bridle 

Satterday  2nd  march  1822 
vanbeber  and  His  Party  Set  out  Early  up  the  River 
We  Con  Clude  to  follow  them  one  or  two  days  Ex- 
specting  We  may  find  Some  Elk — We  Went  up  the 
[River]  twelve  miles  pasing  at  Seven  miles  a  large 


/ 


FORKS  OF  THE  RIO  GRANDE.  121 

pond  of  Watter  of  about  40  acers  on  the  West  Side  of 
the  River — the  Bottom  of  Which  is  about  one  mile 
Wide  the  mountains  High  on  Each  Side — the  tops  of 
Which  are  a  great  Hight  above  vegatation  at  about 
ten  miles  We  Crost  a  fork  14  Puting  In  on  the  West 
Sid  about  one  third  as  large  as  the  River  it  appeers 
to  Head  to  the  West — Heare  the  River  makes  a  turn 
to  the  north  as  fare  as  We  Cold  See  up  it — We 
Camped  With  vanbebers  party  the  Head  killed  one 
Elk — our  Cors  West  12  miles — Heare  the  mountains 
Put  Close  to  the  River  Which  [is]  very  Croked 

Sunday  3rd  march  1822 
I  Remained  at  Camp  Robert  [Fowler]  and  Tay- 
lor Went  Hunting  the  formor  killed  two  Elk  and  left 
the  latter  to  butcher  them  While  took  out  Horses 
and  braught  them  In  to  Camp 

monday  4th  march  1822 
Went  up  the  River  to  look  for  Sign  of  Bever  but 
found  none 

14  This  fixes  the  position  of  the  party  exactly.  This  is  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Rio  Grande,  above  which  the  main  stream 
comes  S.  E.  from  Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  for  about  12  m.  to  the 
forks.  Fowler's  compass  points  are  here  far  out;  the  Rio  Grande 
is  flowing  about  E.  from  the  forks  to  the  plains;  and  the  courses 
of  the  two  forks  from  their  confluence  upward  are,  respectively, 
about  S.  W.  and  N.  W. 


122 


UTE  INDIANS  IN  CAMP. 


tuesday  5th  march  1822 
We  moved  down  the  River  to  the  first  High  point  of 
Rocks  on  the  East  [north]  Side  at  the  Head  of  the 
large  vally  and  about  one  mile  below  Where  We  killed 
the  Hors — Some  Snow  fell  last  night  the  Weather 
Cold  the  River  Is  yet  frosen  up  Close  Except  a  few 
Springs  in  the  River  bank  Which  keeps  it  oppen  a 
few  feet — High  Wind  last  night — 

Wensday  6th  march  1822 
Sot  Some  traps — Taylor  Came  In  late  at  night  Re- 
ports that  Some  Indeans  are  Camped  about  Eight 
miles  below  us  on  the  River 

thorsday  7th  march  1822 
Taylor  purposes  going  to  the  Indeans  Camp  I  gave 
Him  Some  tobaco  for  that  purpose — He  Went  to  the 
Indeans  Robert  my  Self  and  Pall  Road  out  the 
mountains  and  on  our  Return  We  See  a  nomber  of 
Indeans  at  Camp  Which  We  Cold  See  at  Some  dis- 
tance from  the  point  of  one  of  the  mountains  and  not 
noing  what  Indeans  the  Ware  we  vewed  them  about 
Half  an  Hour — the  then  moved  off  from  our  Camp 
and  We  Came  In — Wheare  We  found  taylor — tho  the 
Indeans  Had  Stolen  two  Buffelow  Roabs  Some  lead 
and  two  knives — and  Ware  of  the  utaws  nation 
[Utes]  Which  Roame  about  and  live  In  the  moun- 


UP  THE  NORTH  FORK.  1 23 

tains  Without  Haveing  any  Settled  Home  and  live 
altogether  on  the  Chase  Raising  no  grain — Slover 
With  His  party  Pased  up  the  River  this  day — 

Friday  8th  march  1822 
We  Remain  at  the  Same  Camp — Caught  one  Bever 
and  one  aughter  [otter]  Ward  and  duglass  Came  to 
our  Camp  from  touse  [Taos] — and  State  that  the 
Spanierds  Have  Sent  700  men  against  the  nabeho 
[Navajo]  Indeans — and  of  a  battle  being  f aught  be- 
tween Spanierds  and  the  Panie  Indeans  East  of  the 
mountains 

Satterday  9th  march  1822 
Ward  and  Duglass  Set  out  for  vanbebers  Camp — In 
the  Evening  two  Spanierds  Came  to  Camp — Hard 
frost  last  night 

Sunday  10th  march  1822 
Went  up  the  River  above  the  forkes  to  kill  meet  the 
two  Spanierds  With  us — 

monday  nth  march  1822 
We  Hunted  till  12  oclock  for  Elk  but  found  none — 
We  Continued  up  the  north  [fork]  about  Eight  miles 
Heare  the  mountains  Close  in  on  both  Sides  So  that 
our  Pasege  Was  Defequal  and  the  River  turning  to 
the  West — We  maid  ten  miles  and  Camped  With  Slo- 
ver and  vanbeber  Partey  the  Have  all  meet  Heare  to- 


124  WAGON  WHEEL  GAP — HOT  SPRING. 


gether — the  Have  killed  two  Elk  N°  8  miles — West 
2  miles  15 

tusday  12th  march  1822 
Robert  and  myself  Set  out  Early  to  Hunt  and  Have- 
ing  been  Informed  that  a  Hot  Spring  Had  been  found 
up  the  Crick  Which  put  In  to  the  River  from  the  West 
[south]  Side  a  little  above  our  Cam[p] — We  Went 
to  the  Spring  about  one  and  a  Half  miles  up  the  Crick 
— But  the  Smoke  appeered  like  that  of  a  Salt  furnis — 
as  Soon  as  We  Came  In  vew  of  it — the  Snow  Was 
now  about  Six  Inches  deep  over  the  valley  of  the 
Crick  But  the  Hot  Watter  Head  kept  the  ground 
Cleane  for  a  few  Rods  Round  the  Spring — but  What 
appeered  Straing  to  look  at  Was  to  see  Ice  Exstended 
about  three  feet  from  the  Shore  over  the  Watter — tho 
a  boiling  up  In  the  middle  of  the  Pon[d]  Which  Was 
about  three  Rods  a  Cross  and  nearly  Round  the  Spert 
of  Watter  Rose  up  Some  distance  above  the  leavel 
of  the  Watter  In  the  Pon  and  Was  about  the 
Size  of  a  flour  Barrel — now  the  question  Was  How 
Can  the  Ice  Existe  on  Hot  Watter.  I  Caught  hold  of 
the  Ice  as  I  Soposed — and  [was]  not  only  Scalded 
With  the  Watter  but  the  [was]  Burned  With  the  Ice 
it  being  nearly  as  Hot  as  the  Watter — bout  on  a  far- 

15  Up  the  North  Fork  or  main  Rio  Grande,  in  Wagon  Wheel 
Gap,  to  a  point  about  2  m.  below  the  mouth  of  Hot  Spring 
creek,  presently  mentioned  in  the  text. 


HOT  SPRING  CREEK.  1 25 

ther  Examination  I  found  it  Was  a  mineral  Substan 
that  Had  Congeled  on  the  Watter  of  Which  there 
Ware  vast  quantitys  laying  below  the  Spring  In  the 
Crick  Which  Run  from  it — We  then  Went  up  the 
mountain  till  the  Snow  got  So  deep  We  Ware  obliged 
to  Return — killed  nothing — this  forke  [Hot  Spring 
creek]  of  the  River  Heads  nearly  [south]  in  the 
High  mountains — the  main  River  Heading  north  16 
and  from  appeerence  the  mountains  Seperates  and  be 
Comes  Lower  as  you  go  up  the  River  leaveing  a  large 
valley — and  low  Bottoms  along  the  River — the  two 
Spanierds  tell  us  it  is  about  one  days  travel  to  the 
Head  of  the  River — the  Cuntry  is  low  a  Crass  to  the 
arkensaw — about  twenty  miles  north  [west]  from 
Heare  and  Six  East  [north]  of  this  River  there  Is  a 
large  lake  17  or  Bodey  of  Watter  that  Has  no  out  let 
that  there  is  Some  Island  In  it  With  trees  on  them — 
the  all  So  State  that  this  lake  lyes  be  twen  the  Del- 
nort  and  the  arkensaw  and  that  the  Cuntry  is  low  all 
the  Way  betwen  the  two  Rivers — 

16  About  W.  from  Fowler's  present  position,  and  much  further 
off  than  the  Spaniards  told  him. 

17  Santa  Maria  lake,  about  in  the  position  indicated,  if  we 
make  the  required  correction  of  compass  points.  This  lake  is  2 
or  3  m.  N.  E.  of  San  Juan  City,  a  place  on  the  Rio  Grande  in 
Antelope  park,  at  the  mouth  of  Clear  creek.  The  road  from  the 
Rio  Grande  N.  W.  to  Lake  fork  of  Gunnison  river  skirts  Santa 
Maria  lake,  and  strikes  the  Lake  fork  at  San  Cristobal  lake. 


126 


HANGING  ROCK  CAMP. 


Wendsday  13th  march  1822 
We  Heare  left  the  two  Spanierds  With  Slover  as  We 
Head  Dick  Walters  at  His  Camp  on  Pikes  fork  We 
moved  down  the  River  a  little  below  the  main  forkes 
and  killed  one  Elk  Wheare  We  Camped  for  the  night 
— bothe  the  other  partys  pased  us  Heare  and  Camped 
about  one  mile  below  us — the  Ice  begins  to  thaw  and 
all  makeing  for  the  Bever  Sign — 

thorsday  14th  march  1822 
this  morning  two  of  our  Horses  Ware  mising — 
about  twelve  oclock  We  found  them  and  moved  down 
to  Hanging  [Rock]  as  We  Have  Called  it  at  our  old 
Camp— the  Weather  Has  got  Cold  and  the  Ice 
Harder — We  Will  not  be  able  to  trap  for  Some  time 
yet — We  Heare  find  the  flax  [Linum  perenne]  In 
abondance  the  Rute  Is  purenal  [root  is  perennial] 
but  In  Every  other  appeerence  it  is  like  ous — 

Friday  15th  march  1822 
Remained  In  Camp — the  Ice  begins  to  thaw  in  the 
day  time  but  Hard  frost  at  night — 

Satterday  16th  march  1822 
Remained  in  Camp  all  day — 

Sunday  17th  march  1822 
Remained  in  Camp  all  day — 


/ 

HANGING  ROCK  CAMP  SHIFTED.  I2J 

monday  18th  march  1822 
Some  difequalty  With  Taylor  He  quits  us  or  We  leave 
Him — and  move  up  a  Crick  to  the  South  a  bout  four 
miles  to  Some  bever  Dams — Robert  Fowler  Com- 
plains of  the  Sore  throat  for  Some  days — and  is  git- 
ting  Worse 
South  4  miles 

tusday  19th  march  1822 
Robert  is  Still  Worse  With  the  Sore  throat — We  ap- 
ply a  sock  With  ashes  Round  His  neck — He  finds 
Releef  in  about  two  Hours — Hard  frost  this  morning 
and  Cold  With  High  Winds 

Wensday  20th  march  1822 
Caught  three  Bever  and  Examin  the  Crick  about  Six 
miles  Higher  up  to  Wheare  the  mountains  Close  In 
on  both  Sides  there  Is  timber  and  Willows  all  along 
this  Crick  and  the  bottoms  about  Half  a  mile  Wid  and 
Well  adopted  for  Cultavation  on  acoumpt  of  Eraga- 
tion — as  no  other  lands  Can  be  Cultivated  Heare  for 
the  Want  of  Seasnable  Rains — 
S.°  30  W  6  miles 

thorsday  [Friday]  29th  march  1822 
We  Have  Remained  Heare  Waiting  for  the  Ice  to 
melt  out  of  the  Crick  but  the  Weather  Continues  Cold 
and  Clouday  With  frequent  Snow  Storms  the  Ice  is 


128 


TRAPPING  AND  SHOOTING. 


Still  frosen  over  the  bever  dams  So  that  We  Caught 
but  few — Robert  Sore  throat  Has  gon  much  better 
— We  moved  down  to  the  River  about  3  miles  above 
our  old  Camp  killed  three  gees — Sot  Some  traps — the 
gees  is  now  Coming  plenty  and  those  We  killed  fatt 
Which  is  pleasing  to  us  as  We  Have  now  lived  a  long 
time  on  Poor  meet — Cloudey  and  begins  to  Snow — 
the  Ice  is  nearly  gon  out  of  the  River 

Satterday  30th  march  1822 
the  Snow  is  about  four  Inches  deep  Caught  one  bever 
killed  one  Sand  Hill  Crain  [Grus  mexicana]  and  five 
gees — the  day  is  Warm — the  Snow  all  gon  out  of  the 
valleys  but  the  mountains  are  all  Covered  moved 
to  down  to  the  old  Camp 

Sunday  31st  march  1822 
Caught  four  Bever  and  killed  five  gees — the  Weather 
is  gitting  Cold 

monday  1st  aprile  1822 
Killed  five  gees — the  Watter  frose  over  the  traps 
Caught  no  bever 

tusday  2nd  aprile  1822 
Caught  two  bever — and  Remained  the  ballence  of  the 
day  In  Camp 


MOVE  DOWN  THE  RIO  GRANDE.  1 29 

Wensday  3rd  aprile  1822 
Caught  one  Bever  killed  three  gees — the  Weather 
much  Warmer  We  move  up  the  Crick  to  the  Bever 
dams — find  the  Ice  much  thiner  and  Sot  Some  traps — 

thorsday  4th  aprile  1822 
Hard  frost  last  night  and  frose  up  the  traps  Caught 
but  one  bever  We  now  find  that  In  this  Crick  the 
Watter  Rises  by  Suns  thaw  Ing  the  Ioe  and  at  night 
With  the  Hard  frost  so  that  the  Rise  and  fall  of  the 
Watter  will  defeet  the  traping 

friday  5th  aprile  1822 
moved  Early  about  East  threw  a  low  [gap]  In  the 
Spurs  of  the  mountains  about  ten  miles  and  Camped 
a  little  below  the  Spanish  Road  leading  to  Pikes 
[fork.  In  the]  gap  In  the  mountain — We  Sot  Some 
traps — N  70  East  10  to  the  River  18 

Satterday  6th  aprile  1822 
Caught  one  Bever — We  find  the  River  as  Well  as  the 
Crick  Rises  In  the  day  with  melting  of  the  Ice  for  it 
Cannot  be  the  Snow  In  the  mountain  the  distance  up 
to  the  Snow  prevents  the  Watter  from  Ever  Retching 

18  Text  obscure,  but  intelligible  if  read  as  above  amended. 
The  trip  was  from  the  creek  on  which  the  party  had  trapped 
through  a  gap  to  the  Rio  Grande  at  a  point  whence  the  Span- 
ish road  led  from  the  river  down  the  west  side  of  the  San  Luis 
valley  to  the  RkfConejos. 


130  THROUGH  THE  SAN  LUIS  VALLEY. 

the  vally  the  ground  is  so  dry  and  loose  that  the  Wat- 
ter  all  dis  appeers  before  it  Can  Rech  near  the  futt  of 
the  mountains  and  Haveing  Had  frost  at  night  the 
River  falls  as  much  as  it  Rises  in  the  day — Taylor 
Came  to  our  Camp  to  day  and  States  that  there  are  a 
great  many  Indeans  on  the  River  both  above  and  be- 
low us  that  the  Had  Robed  His  Camp  and  taken  all 
His  traps  but  that  He  Had  followed  them  and  got  all 
back  but  two  traps 

Sunday  7th  aprile  1822 
Caught  one  Bever  and  moved  down  the  River  about 
12  miles  on  the  north  Side    We  Have  killed  twelve 
gees  Since  We  Have  been  on  the  River  last — 

monday  8th  aprile  1822 
Caught  one  Bever — Killed  five  gees  moved  down  the 
River  to  the  lower  Eand  of  the  timber — the  Indeans 
are  all  gon  to  the  West  over  the  mountains  the  Ware 
the  utaws  nation — 

tuesday  9th  aprile  1822 
moved  down  the  River  about  ten  miles — and  then 
turned  East  across  the  valley  to  a  crick  19  and  up  it 
about  five  miles — this  Crick  Heds  to  the  north  as  Is 
the  Same  We  Came  down  Where  We  Crosse  the 

19  Trinchera  creek,  whose  Sangre  de  Cristo  branch  the  party 
descended^ Feb.  4  and  5.    See  p.  101. 


UP  AND  DOWN  TRINCHERA  CREEK.  131 

mountains  In  feby  last — We  this  day  mett  With  ven- 
beber  and  Ward — 

Wensday  10th  aprile  1822 
Heare  Is  Some  Indeans  from  the  Spanish  Settlement 
— We  moved  up  the  Crick  about  ten  miles  lost  one 
bever  trap — N°  10  miles 

thorsday  nth  aprile  1822 
Went  up  the  Crick  about  three  miles  and  found  Some 
Sign  of  bever — Sot  Some  traps — We  yesterday  pased 
threw  Some  of  the  Richest  bottom  on  the  Crick  that 
I  have  Seen  and  Contains  Six  or  Eight  thousand 
acers  20 

N  20  West  3  miles 

friday  12th  aprile  1822 
Cold  and  Clouday  the  Crick  frose  up — We  Caught 
nothing — We  Set  out  threw  the  Pirarie  down  the 
Crick  a  Snow  Storm  Came  on  and  Caught  us  In  the 
Pirarie  the  Wind  and  Snow  in  our  faces  So  that  We 
Cold  not  See  one  another  two  Rods — this  Storm 
lasted  about  two  Hours  and  it  Was  Weel  for  us  it 
Seesed  for  We  Cold  not  See  Which  Way  to  go  and 
our  Setuation  Was  Realy  unplesent — 

We  Camped  near  the  mouth  of  the  [Trinchera] 
Crick  Wheare  We  found  Some  timber — 

20  Vicinity  of  Fort  Garland,  Costilla  Co. ,  Col. 


132 


UP  THE  RIO  GRANDE  AGAIN. 


Satterday  13th  aprile  1822 
the  ground  is  now  Covered  With  Snow  and  Hard 
frosen — We  Have  not  Seen  one  morning  With  out 
frost  Since  the  Winter  first  Sot  In — We  Crossed  the 
River  a  little  above  Pikes  forke  [Rio  Conejos]  and 
ConCluded  to  go  back  to  the  timber  up  the  River  for 
Which  We  Steered  for  three  or  four  miles  and 
Crossed  a  large  Streem  [La  Jara]  of  Runing  Wat- 
ter  forty  feet  Wide  and  nearly  beley  deep  to  the 
Horses — We  Head  Crossed  this  Same  Crick  In  febuy 
last  [Feb.  20]  but  the  Was  no  Watter  then  In  it 
it  Haveing  to  pass  over  about  twenty  miles  of  oppen 
leavel  Pirarie  it  Was  all  frosen  to  Ice — at  that  time 
and  Is  now  melted  and  Coming  down — the  Snow 
Has  disappeered  In  the  valey  but  the  mountains 
Covered — 

[Sunday,  April  14th — no  entry] 

monday  15th  aprile  1822 
Caught  2  beve  and  killed  one  goos  We  yester  day 
Seen  our  Hors  lost  by  vanbebers  Party  but  So  willd 
We  Cold  not  take  Him — 

tusday  16th  april  1822 
Caught  one  Bever  and  moved  up  the  River  about  four 
miles  and  Camped  on  the  West  Side  vanbebers  party 
pased  us  on  the  East  going  up  all  So — 


TO  HANGING  ROCK  CAMP. 


133 


Wensday  17  aprile  1822 
Caught  one  bever  and  moved  up  the  River  about  12 
miles  the  day  Cloudey  and  Cold  Comesed  Snowing 
fast  In  the  Evening  and  Continued  till  late  at  night — 

thorsday  18th  aprile  1822 
the  Snow  about  Six  Inches  deep  We  Caught  one 
Bever  and  killed  four  gees — the  day  Warm  the  Snow 
all  gon  before  night — 

Friday  19th  aprile  1822 
killed  two  gees  and  Caught  two  Bever — Remained 
the  ballence  of  the  day  at  Camp — 

Satterday  20th  aprile  1822 
Caught  2  Bever  and  killed  two  gees  the  Weather 
Warm  the  grass  begins  to  appeer  a  little  moved  up 
the  River  a  bout  Seven  miles  Seen  about  twenty  Elk 
Robert  Shot  one  but  it  went  off  With  the  Rest — the 
mountains  are  Still  Covered  With  Snow  tho  none  In 
the  valeys — 

Sunday  21st  aprile  1822 
Caught  two  bever  killed  one  goos  moved  up  the  River 
about  Six  miles  Seen  nine  Elk — 

monday  22nd  aprile  1822 
Caught  two  bever  killed  one  goos  and  moved  up  the 
River  to  the  Hanging  Rock  21  and  from  that  to  the 
21  See  back,  date  of  Mar.  14,  p.  126. 


134 


DOWN  THE  RIO  GRANDE  AGAIN. 


Bever  dams  on  the  Crick  Wheare  We  left  on  the  6th 
Instent  Soposeing  the  Ice  Wold  be  gon  out  of  the 
Crick — 

tusday  23  aprile  1822 
Caught  two  bever — the  Weather  Cold — no  game 
Hear  and  the  Bever  Poor  We  Will  move  to  the  River 
In  the  morning  on  acoumpt  of  killing  gees  to  Eat — 

Wensday  24th  aprile  1822 
Caught  two  bever  moved  to  the  River  and  Crosed 
over  to  the  East  Side  and  Camped  a  little  below  the 
Hanging  Rock  killed  one  goos  and  one  duck — 

thorsday  25th  aprile  1822 
Caught  one  Bever  killed  one  goos  and  moved  down 
the  river  about  five  miles — 

Friday  26th  april  1822 
Set  out  down  the  River  Intend  to  go  to  the  Settle- 
ment We  are  giting  Scarce  of  Powder  Haveing  to 
Shute  So  much  at  gees  for  Want  of  larger  game — 
killed  two  Caberey  and  one  Elk — maid  Eight  miles 
and  Camped  on  the  East  Side  of  the  River — 

Satterday  27th  aprile  1822 
killed  two  gees  moved  down  the  River  near  the  lower 
Eand  of  the  timber  Seen  many  Elk  the  Have  now  left 
the  mountains  and  Come  Into  the  timber  land  on  the 
River  to  feed  on  the  young  grass — 


/ 


OJO  CALIENTE  NEAR  PIKE'S  FORT.  1 35 

Sunday  28th  aprile  1822 
no  frost  this  morning  and  the  first  We  Have  Seen 
this  Spring — the  grass  groes  but  Slow  the  trees  not 
yet  Buding  the  ground  is  as  dry  as  dust  no  moist- 
ure but  the  Snow  Since  We  Came  to  the  Cuntry  and 
the  Spanierds  Say  that  It  is  three  years  Since  the 
Have  Had  Rain — we  moved  down  the  River  about 
four  miles  and  Crossed  to  the  West  Side  of  the  River 
and  Steered  South  at  about  ten  miles  Crosed  the  Wil- 
low Crick  and  at  about  fifteen  miles  pased  a  Spring 
In  the  leavel  Pirarie  Which  Contained  about  on  Hog- 
set  of  Clear  Cool  Watter  Standing  on  Rise  or  mound 
of  Earth  a  little  above  the  leavel  of  the  Pirarie  the 
ground  Round  this  Spring  Was  quite  Soft  and  Wen 
We  Ware  at  the  Watter  by  Jumping  on  the  ground 
you  Cold  See  it  Shake  for  about  two  Rods  all  Round 
— about  five  miles  farther  We  Crosed  Pikes  forke  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Warm  Spring  Branch  Spoken  of 
by  that  gentleman  In  Jurnal 22  We  then  pased  threw 
Some  low  Hills  a  little  East  of  South  Seven  miles  to 
the  River  and  Crossing  over  found  the  Watter  up  to 
the  Saddle  Sceats  and  one  of  our  Pack  Horses  fell 
down  with  his  load  and  Was  not  able  to  Rise  So  that 
We  Had  Some  difequalty  to  Keep  Him  from  be 
22  At  p.  502  of  the  ed.  of  1895;  see  also  my  notes  at  pp.  495,  496, 
for  this  Ojo  Caliente  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  opposite  Pike's  stock- 
ade on  the  Rio  Conejos.  For  the  above  named  Willow  (La  Jara) 
creek,  see  back,  p.  132  and  p.  115,  Apr.  13  and  Feb.  20. 


136  UP  RIO  CULEBRA  TO  TAOS  TRIAL. 

drounded  We  then  pased  over  a  low  Ridge  about  Half 
a  mile  and  Camped  on  a  crick  Wheare  We  found 
Some  Woods — 

monday  29th  aprile  1822 
Clouday  With  High  Winds  Some  Snow — We  moved 
on  Intending  to  Camp  on  a  branch  With  Some  timber 
on  the  East  Side  of  the  Snake  Hill  at  twelve  miles  We 
maid  the  Branch  but  no  Watter — We  Went  up  the 
the  Crick  about  Eight  miles  and  there  found  it  a  Bold 
Riming  Streem  23  Hear  We  Camped  for  the  night 
makeing  in  [all]  twenty  miles  We  Seen  Heare  on 
this  Crick  a  great  many  Cabery  but  very  Wild 
South  45  East  iS[sic]  miles 

tusday  30th  aprile  1822 
Hard  frost  the  Ice  about  the  8th  of  an  Inch  on  the 
kittle  of  Watter  Killed  a  Woolf  at  Camp — and  Set 
out  up  the  [Culebra]  Crick  to  [ward]  the  mountains 
about  three  miles  Whear  We  Struck  the  Road  to 
touse  [Taos]  Which  We  took  and  Camped  at  the 
Hords  mans  villege  but  no  purson  to  be  Seen  the 
Have  deserted  that  place — about  Sundown  Six  Inde- 

23  Rio  Culebra,  which  Fowler  first  passed  Feb.  5,  on  his  way 
to  Taos  :  see  that  date,  p.  101.  "Snake  river"  translates  the 
Spanish  name,  and  the  "  Snake  Hill"  of  the  text  is  that  one  of 
the  San  Luis  hills  which  is  near  this  river,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
Rio  Grande. 


SAN  FERNANDEZ  DE  TAOS.  1 37 

ans  Came  to  our  Camp  the  Ware  of  the  apacha  nation 
now  at  Pace  With  the  Spanierds — the  derected  us  to 
go  off  Emedetly  Saying  that  the  utaws  Had  Stolen 
three  Horses  from  our  men  and  that  [they]  Wold 
Steel  ours  if  We  Stayed  at  this  place  all  night — We 
geathered  up  our  Horses  and  after  night  moved  off 
about  three  miles  and  lay  Without  fier — 

Wensday  ist  may  1822 
We  Went  down  to  St  flander  [San  Fernandez  de 
Taos]  in  the  nibor  Hood  of  touse  [Pueblo  de  Taos] 
and  find  Conl  glann  Is  gon  to  stafee  [Santa  Fe] 
We  Remained  Heare  two  days  vanbebers  Party 
Head  Came  In  and  the  french  partey  Is  Heare  all  So 
— We  now  find  all  the  Horses  that  ware  left  Heare 
very  Poor  and  the  Rainge  near  the  vilege  all  Eat  out 
I  then  ConCluded  to  take  all  the  Horses  out  of  the 
Settlement  to  good  Rainge  So  as  to  fatten  them  or 
the  Will  not  be  able  to  to  Cross  the  mountains  on  the 
first  of  June  as  that  Was  the  time  We  In  tend  to  Set 
out  I  therefore  derected  them  all  to  be  Collected 
and  that  I  Wold  move  them  In  the  morning. — 

We  Ware  Informed  that  Spanish  army  Had  Re- 
turned that  they  Hag  taken  one  old  Indean  and  Some 
two  or  three  old  Horses  that  Ware  So  poor  the  Na- 
beho  [Navajo]  Cold  not  drive  them  up  the  moun- 
tains— for  it  appers  the  Went  up  the  Steep  mountain 


138  UP  EAST   FORK  OF  PUEBLO  CREEK. 

and  Role  down  the  Rocks  on  their  Pursurs  So  that 
the  Ware  Compled  to  discontinu  the  pursute — 

Satterday  4th  may  1822 
moved  up  the  Crick  South  about  five  miles  and 
Camped  in  the  forks  near  Some  Hords  men  Ho  kept 
a  large  lot  of  Cattle  from  [whom]  We  obtained  Some 
Cows  milk  We  took  With  us  16  Horses — all  We 
Cold  find 

Sunday  5th  may  1822 
Went  up  the  East  fork  of  the  Crick  about  Eight 
miles — find  the  Bever  Have  been  all  taken  out  by 
Some  trapers — the  mountain  is  High  and  Steep  and 
Croud  Close  to  the  Crick  on  both  Sides  We 
Returned  to  Camp  Wheare  Barbo  and  Simpson 
Had  braught  Eight  more  horses  makeing  in  [all] 
twenty  four — grass  is  Heare  very  good — the  Horses 
Will  Soon  get  fatt — this  Evening  Cloudey  With  thon- 
der  and  a  little  Rain  the  first  We  Have  Seen  on  this 
Side  of  the  mountain 

monday  6th  may  1822 
Clouday  and  a  little  Rain — the  Horses  all  Collected 
the  are  all  poor  but  the  grass  is  good  and  the  Will 
thrive — I  purchased  a  bull  from  a  Spanierd  for  which 
I  gave  Him  my  great  Coat  and  one  knife — the  Beef 
Was  Prety  good  it  Rained  a  little  In  the  Evening 


CAMP  NEAR  TAOS.  1 39 

tusday  7th  may  1822 
Cool  With  flying  Clouds  and  a  little  Rain  Battess 
braught  taylors  mule  to  Camp  Which  He  Head  Re- 
ported to  Have  been  Stolen  by  the  Indeans  Potter 24 
Came  to  Camp  With  Conl  glanns  Horse  He  Has 
Returned  from  Stafee — 

Wensday  8th  may  1822 
Hard  frost  the  Horses  all  presend  Went  down  to  the 
vilege — We  Heare  that  the  Congrass  Has  Convened 
at  maxeco — and  that  the  Indeans  Have  taken  a  great 
many  Horses  from  this  niborhood  and  killed  Some 
Cattle 

thorsday  9th  may  1822 
Hard  frost  In  the  morning  and  Rained  a  little  In  the 
Evening 

friday  10th  may  1822 
Cool  With  flying  Clouds  and  High  Wind — our 
Horses  all  present 

Satterday  nth  may  1822 
Some  flying  Clouds  and  warm  In  the  evening 

Sunday  12th  may  1822 
Cloudey  With  flying  Clouds — the  trees  giting  green 
the  Cotten  Wood  leaves  Half  gron  [grown] — the 
People  not  yet  don  Sowing  Wheat 

24  New  name,  probably  of  some  man  who  has  joined  the  party. 
See  June  1,  p.  142,  where  James  and  McKnight's  party  join. 


140  CAMP  NEAR  TAOS. 

monday  13th  may  1822 
flying  Clouds  and  High  Winds  Continues  Cloudey 
With  lightning  threw  the  night 

tusday  14th  may  1822 
Clouday  and  Rain  threw  the  day 

Wensday  15th  may  1822 
the  Snow  from  4  to  5  Inches  deep — Clers  up  about 
10  oclock  and  Warm  the  Snow  disappers  in  the  vallys 
but  Hangs  on  in  the  mountains 

thorsday  16th  may  1822 
Some  frost  In  the  morning  but  Warm  after  Sun  Rise 

friday  17th  may  1822 
flying  Clouds  and  High  Winds — 

Satterday  18th  may  1822 
flying  Clouds  and  High  Wind 

Sunday  19th  may  1822 
Cloudey  and  Warm  for  the  Season 

monday  20th  may  1822 
High  Winds  and  Clouds — 

tusday  21st  may  1822 
Clouday  and  Cool  in  the  morning — High  Winds 
about  12  oclock  and  Continu  till  Sundown — 


/ 


CAMP  NEAR  TAOS.  HI 

Wensday  22nd  may  1822 
Clouday  and  Winday — 

thorsday  23rd  may  1822 
Cloudey  With  thonder  like  for  Rain — Clears  off  In 
the  after  noon  With  High  Wind 

friday  24th  may  1822 
flying  Clouds  ancl  High  Wind 

Satterday  25th  may  1822 
the  Wolves  maid  an  atackt  on  our  Horses  the 
Wounded  one  Hors  and  two  mules  We  Have  maid  a 
Strong  Pen  Close  to  Camp  and  Still  Shut  up  all  the 
Horses  at  night  While  We  Remain  at  this  place — to 
protect  them  from  the  Wolfes — 

Sunday  26th  may  1822 
Clouday  and  Warm  all  day — 

monday  27th  1822 
Clouday  With  High  Winds  and  thonder  Several  thon- 
der gust  With  a  little  Rain  in  the  night — 

tusday  28th  may  1822 
Cool  With  High  Winds  and  flying  Clouds — Snow 
Storms  In  the  Evening — but  light — 


142 


THE  START  FOR  HOME. 


Wensday  29th  may  1822 
Cool  With  flying-  Clouds  We  are  now  makeing  Some 
araingements  for  our  Jurney  over  the  mountains 
Some  few  days  back  Robert  Fowler  killed  two  young 
White  Bares  and  braught  them  to  Camp 

thorsday  30th  may  1822 
Road  down  to  the  vilege  all  Hands  prepairing  to  Set 
out  on  the  first  day  of  June  for  the  United  States — 
Clouday  With  thonder  in  the  Evening — Some  Rain 
in  the  night — the  Snow  Still  Continu  on  the  High 
mountains — 

Friday  31st  may  1822 
Cool  With  flying  Clouds  and  High  Winds — the 
Horses  all  Collected  and  Sent  to  the  vilege  Except 
Except  those  for  Robert  my  Self  and  pall — We  Will 
go  down  In  the  morning — 

Satterday  1st  June  1822 
Clear  With  White  frost  We  Set  out  Early  to  Join  the 
party  at  the  vilege  Wheare  We  found  all  Ready  to 
Start — all  So  James  and  mcnights  party  from  Stafee 
Had  Joined  ours  and  all  moved  on  together  25  East 

25  The  party  start  for  home  by  a  different  route  from  that  on 
which  they  came  to  Taos.  Crossing  the  mountains  eastward  by 
the  Taos  Pass,  they  leave  the  watershed  of  the  Rio  Grande  for 
that  of  the  Arkansaw,  and  fetch  out  of  the  mountains  on  certain 
headwaters  of  the  Canadian,  as  noted  beyond. 

In  Gregg's  Comm.  of  the  Pra.,  i,  1844,  p.  19  and  p.  67  (quoted 


/ 


UP   FERDINAND   CREEK.  143 

four  miles  to  the  mountain — and  there  took  up  a 
Crick  26  north  75  East  aleven  miles  to  the  forks  of 
the  Crick  Wheare  We  Camped  for  the  night  fine  grass 
for  the  Horses — the  timber  on  the  mountains  Heare  is 
Pitch  Pine  Spruce  Pine  Hemlock  and  quakenasp  the 
latter  of  Which  there  are  vast  quantityes.  In  the  bot- 
toms along  the  Cricks  Cotten  Wood  Black  alder  and 
Willows  With  the  Chock  Cherry  Black  Curren  [cur- 
rant] goosbery  and  Wild  Rose  on  the  Hill  Sides  are 
Some  Small  White  oak  Brush  from  one  to  fifteen  feet 
High  and  I  Have  Seen  Some  large  Enof  for  a  Hand- 
spike Every  thing  of  the  shrub  or  tree  [kinds]  that 
Bair  frute  is  now  In  full  Blume — the  Choack  Cherry 
is  on[e]  of  the  Handsomest  Bushes  I  Have  Seen  and 
is  now  In  full  Blume — 

in  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  437),  it  is  stated  that  a  party  of  about  a 
dozen  men,  including  two  named  Beard  and  Chambers,  reached 
Santa  Fe  in  1812,  and  returned  to  the  U.  S.  in  1822.  In  Inman's 
Santa  Fe  Trail,  p.  41,  it  is  made  eight  years  after  James  Purs- 
ley's  trip  that  **■  Messrs.  Mc Knight,  Beard,  and  Chambers,  with 
about  a  dozen  comrades,  started  with  a  supply  of  goods  across 
the  unknown  plains,  and  by  good  luck  arrived  safely  at  Santa 
Fe,"  where  their  troubles  began  ;  their  wares  were  confiscated, 
and  most  of  them  were  incarcerated  at  Chihuahua  4 '  for  almost  a 
decade."  Inman  agrees  with  Gregg  that  Beard  and  Chambers 
reached  St.  Louis  in  1822,  and  notes  that  "  McKnight  was  mur- 
dered south  of  the  Arkansas  by  the  Comanches  in  the  winter  of 
1822,"  meaning  of  1822-23.  This  McKnight  is  obviously  the  man 
whom  Fowler  names. 

26  Ferdinand  creek  ;  up  this  to  its  forks  at  foot  of  Taos  Pass. 


144        BY  TAOS  PASS  INTO  MORENO  VALLEY. 


Satterday  2nd  June  1822 
Hard  frost  our  Horses  much  Scattered  this  morning 
and  it  Was  late  When  We  Set  out  up  the  left  Hand 
fork  of  the  [Ferdinand]  Crick 

the  Hills  Close  In  on  both  Sides  and  at  about  four 
miles  We  arive  at  the  top  of  the  mountain  27  and 
Crossing  over  and  down  a  small  drean  [drain]  about 
two  miles  to  an  oppen  valley  about  two  miles  Wide 
Which  We  Crossed  nearly  [at]  Right  angles  pasing  a 
Small  Branch  28  about  the  midle  of  the  vally  Which 
Runs  north  a  little  West  from  this  We  Went  up  a 
small  Branch  betwen  High  mountains  five  miles  to 
the  top  of  the  great  mountain  In  low  gap  High 
Peeks  on  both  Sides  of  us  We  pased  Into  a  large  plain 
a  little  Roleing  With  Some  groves  of  trees — and 
Crossed  Several  fine  Streems  of  Watter — and  all  tho 
We  are  on  a  mountain — the  grass  Is  tall  and  to  all 
apperence  ther  Has  ben  Sesnable  Rains  Heare  as  the 
old  as  Well  as  young  grass  is  tall  and  I  think  from 
Every  apperence  this  Plain  Wold  make  a  good  settle- 

27  Thus  making  the  Taos  Pass,  8450  feet  in  altitude,  and  cross- 
ing to  the  watershed  of  the  Arkansaw;  but  still  far  from  being 
out  of  the  mountains. 

28  Cieneguilla  creek,  running  N.  down  Moreno  valley  to  join 
Moreno  creek,  from  the  N.,  on  which  is  Elizabethtown.  The 
confluence  of  these  two  creeks,  at  the  foot  of  Little  Baldy  peak, 
forms  Cimarron  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Canadian  river.  Mo- 
reno valley  separates  the  Taos  range  from  the  Cimarron  range, 
which  latter  Fowler  is  now  crossing. 


AND  OVER  THE  CIMARRON  RANGE.  145 


ment  for  farmers,  and  tho  We  are  on  a  High  moun- 
tain We  are  not  one  third  of  the  Hight  of  the  moun- 
tain tops  We  pased  threw  this  plain  about  twelve 
miles  the  Watters  Run  Into  grand  Pirarie  and  make 
part  of  the  Kenadean  [Canadian]  forke  of  the  arken- 
saw — after  pasing  this  Plain  We  Began  to  desend  the 
mountain  Which  is  now  Well  Covered  With  timber 
that  is  Pine  Spruce  and  quakenasp  Pasing  down  the 
mountain  We  found  the  Rocks  very  troblesom 
amongest  Which  We  See  a  great  many  Indean  graves, 
or  large  Piles  of  loos  [sjtone  throne  up  In  Heapes 
— about  dark  We  got  to  the  fut  of  the  mountain  and 
about  one  mile  farther  Camped  on  a  Crick  of  Bold 
Runing  Watter  and  find  our  Selves  once  more  In  the 
grand  Pirarie  of  the  arkensaw  Cors  this  day  N  80 
East  25  miles  29 — Robert  Fowler  killed  two  deer  In 
the  mountain 

monday  3rd  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  and  at  about  Seven  miles  pased  the 
Head  of  a  Small  Crick  but  no  Watter  there  Is  no 

29  About  E.,  over  the  Cimarron  range,  passing  by  Black  Peak, 
10,900  feet  high,  to  camp  in  the  plains  on  a  tributary  of  Cimarron 
creek,  a  branch  of  the  Canadian  (not  to  be  confounded  with  that 
vastly  larger  stream,  the  Cimarron  river,  which  is  a  branch  of 
the  Arkansaw  itself).  Cimarron  creek,  after  issuing  from  the 
mountains,  and  having  been  joined  by  Ponil  creek  on  one  side 
and  Rayado  creek  on  the  other,  falls  into  the  Canadian  river;  on 
it  are  the  towns  of  Cimarron  and  Springer,  Colfax  Co.,  N.  M. 


146 


TO  THE  CANADIAN  RIVER. 


appeerence  of  Rain  Hear  for  a  long  time — the  ground 
is  as  dry  as  dust  the  grass  not  began  to  Sprout  and 
Every  thing  look  like  the  dead  of  Winter — and  Still 
more  So  When  We  turn  our  Eye  to  the  top  of  the 
mountain  and  see  the  Snow  Which  Is  Still  In  Sight — 
at  twelve  miles  We  Crosed  a  bold  Streem  30  of  Wat- 
ter  30  feet  Wide  it  Cors  South  East — and  at  Eight 
miles  farther  We  Camped  on  the  bank  of  deep  Crick  31 
about  20  feet  Wide  Runs  South — on  the  low  bottoms 
of  this  Crick  the  grass  begins  to  gro  a  little  Heare  Is 
much  sign  of  Bever — Corse  North  45  East  20  miles 

tusday  4th  June  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  leaveing  the  mountain  on  our  left 
tho  Some  of  the  Spurs  pass  in  frunt  of  us  and  Ex- 
stend  Some  distance  to  our  Right  those  Spurs  We 
Have  to  Cross — and  the  appeer  Some  distance  a 
Head  at  twelve  miles  Stoped  for  dinner  on  a  branch  32 
20  feet  Wide  Runs  South  much  Sign  of  Bever — In  the 
Evening  We  Went  up  the  Crick  Eight  miles  and 

30  Cimarron  creek,  as  already  said. 

31  Vermejo  creek,  next  considerable  branch  of  the  Canadian 
from  the  W.  above  Cimarron  creek.  It  falls  into  the  Canadian 
between  stations  Dover  and  Dorsey  of  the  A.,  T.  and  S.  F.  R.  R. 

32  The  Canadian  river  itself,  which  Fowler  appears  to  have 
struck  somewhere  about  the  mouth  of  Tenaja  creek,  from  the  E. 
This  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Maxwell's  station,  a  noted  place  in  the 
old  days  of  staging,  which  I  well  remember,  having  arrived  there 
at  5  p.  m.  of  Friday,  June  10,  1864. 


/ 


"UP  A  CRICK."  147 

Camped33  Ward  killed  one  Cabery  our  Corse  this 
[day]  North  45  E  18  [sic]  miles 

Wensday  5th  June  1822 
We  Went  up  the  Crick  10  miles  and  Stoped  for  din- 
ner In  the  afternoon  We  Went  up  the  Crick  3  miles 
and  Camped  at  a  large  Spring  the  Spanierd  tells  us 
that  If  We  go  from  this  We  Will  Have  no  Watter  to 
night  Robert  Fowler  killed  two  deer  and  Ward  one 
— James  &  mcnight  party  kill  one  deer  Heare  the 
men  geathered  Some  Wild  Ineons  [onions]  — 

the  grass  is  a  little  better  than  Wheare  We  first 
Came  Into  the  Pirarie    Cors  No  50  East  13  miles  64 

33  Position  uncertain — see  next  note. 

34  It  is  impossible  to  ascend  the  Canadian  river  any  distance 
on  such  a  course,  as  the  river  is  running  due  S.  along  here,  after 
coming  E.  from  the  mountains.  Fowler  was  camped  last  night 
at  some  uncertain  point  on  the  Canadian  and  on  the  present  rail- 
road line,  which  runs  due  N.  through  Raton  pass,  across  the 
boundary  between  New  Mexico  and  Colorado  at  370,  and  past 
Fisher' s  peak  to  Trinidad,  on  Purgatory  river.  But  Fowler 
makes  altogether  too  much  easting  for  any  such  course  as  this. 
I  understand,  after  careful  consideration  of  his  meager  indica- 
tions, that  his  "  up  the  crick  "  so  many  miles  means  up  the  Cana- 
dian to  the  mouth  of  Chico  Rico  creek,  a  branch  from  the  N.  E. 
which,  if  followed  up,  would  take  him  through  Manco  Burro 
Pass,  between  the  Raton  Mesa  and  the  Chico  Rico  Mesa,  to  a 
tributary  of  Purgatory  river;  but  that,  having  gone  up  Chico 
Rico  creek  to  the  confluence  of  its  Una  de  Gato  branch,  he  fol- 
lows up  the  latter  to  camp  at  the  foot  of  the  Chico  Rico  Mesa. 
In  no  other  way  can  we  follow  him  "up  a  crick  "  continuously  in 


i48 


ACROSS  CHICO  RICO  MESA. 


thorsday  6th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  up  the  Spur  of  the  mountain  and  at 
about  one  mile  We  arived  on  a  High  Beed  of  table 
land  about  Eight  miles  Wide  this  land  35  is  leavel  and 
Rich  the  grass  about  nee  High  and  Has  all  the  ap- 
peerence  of  Haveing  Had  Seasnable  Rains  While 
in  the  low  grounds  on  both  Sides  the  ground  is  as 
dry  as  dust  We  pased  on  this  High  land  one  fine 
Spring  of  Watter  We  Seen  two  Buffelow  and  Some 
Caberey — 

We  Hear  for  the  first  time  Seen  the  long  Billed 
Bird  36  it  is  about  the  Size  of  a  fesent  and  the  Same 
Collor  the  legs  and  neck  about  like  our  Common 
dung  Hill  fowls — the  Bill  about  one  foot  in  length 
and  about  one  Inch  In  deameter  at  the  Head  and 
Smaller  at  the  point — We  Crosed  this  plind  [plain] 
and  down  the  mountain  to  a  branch  of  the  White  Bair 
Crick  37  Heare  is  good  Watter  and  plenty  of  Wood — 
We  Stoped  for  dinner — after  Which  We  move  on 

anything  like  the  direction  or  to  anything  like  the  distance  he 
gives;  and  that  this  was  the  way  he  went  will  presently  appear. 

35  Chico  Rico  Mesa,  a  part  of  the  general  Raton  plateau,  sep- 
arated from  Raton  Mesa  proper  by  the  defile  known  as  Manco 
Burro  Pass. 

36  He  means  the  chaparral  cock  or  road-runner,  Geococcyx  cali- 
fornianus ,  though  he  makes  its  bill  about  six  times  too  long. 

37  That  is  to  say,  Purgatory  river,  at  the  mouth  of  which  Lewis 
Dawson  was  killed  by  a  grizzly  bear:  see  p.  41,  Nov.  13,  1821. 
Fowler  had  no  name  for  this  large  river,  excepting  that  it  was 


/ 


TO  BRANCHES  OF  PURGATORY  RIVER.         1 49 

about  10  miles  farther  and  Camped  on  the  Same 
Branch  38  a  buffelow  Was  killed  and  braught  Into 
Camp  We  now  leave  the  main  mountain  at  a  great 
distance  on  our  left  and  the  Spur  to  the  Right  Corse 
N°  20  East  fifteen  miles  [19  by  above  text]. 

friday  7th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  and  Steered  for  the  point  of  the  Spur 
of  the  mountain  to  our  Right — at  about  16  miles 
Stoped  for  dinner  on  a  Crick  Haveing  one  Hole  of 
Watter — the  Ballence  being  [dry]  for  some  distance 

Pike's  "  1st  Fork,"  and  here  speaks  of  it  in  terms  which  recall  the 
tragedy. 

38  Chaquaqua  creek,  a  large  branch  of  Purgatory  river,  drain- 
ing N.  from  Chico  Rico  Mesa.  Crossing  this  mesa  in  the  direc- 
tion said,  Fowler  passes  at  370  the  line  between  New  Mexico  and 
Colorado  at  the  same  place  that  the  Denver,  Texas,  and  Ft. 
Worth  R.  R.  does  now — about  long.  103°  53'  W. — and  comes 
down  off  the  mesa  about  5  m.  due  E.  of  Watervale,  Las  Animas 
Co.,  Col.  He  keeps  down  the  creek  some  10  m.  and  camps  on  it, 
about  opposite  the  westernmost  point  of  the  Mesa  de  Maya. 

From  this  point  Fowler  makes  a  break,  almost  as  straight  as 
the  crow  flies,  for  the  Arkansaw,  which  he  will  strike  at  Coolidge, 
Kas.  It  is  a  long  distance  across  country,  about  N.  E.,  with  no 
exactly  identifiable  landmark  till  we  stand  him  on  Two  Buttes; 
and  his  trail  does  not  coincide,  except  approximately,  with  any 
road  I  can  find  laid  down  on  the  best  modern  maps.  The  nearest  I 
know  of  is  what  is  called  the  "  probable  course  "  of  the  wagon  road 
from  Cimarron  to  Granada,  on  the  drainage  sheet  of  Hayden's 
Atlas  of  Colorado,  1877;  but  the  maps  I  go  by  are  the  later  ones 
of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey,  2  m.  to  the  inch.  It  is  a  matter 
of  special  interest  to  recover  this  old  trail  as  closely  as  possible. 


150  A  LONG  STRETCH  ACROSS  COUNTRY. 


after  dinner  We  proceded  on  leaveing  the  Spur  of  the 
mountain  on  the  Right — and  then  Steered  for  a  Small 
mountain  Standing  By  its  Self  and  leaveing  it  on  our 
Right  fel  on  the  Head  of  a  Branch  that  Was  dry  We 
Went  down  that  about  five  miles  and  found  Watter 
In  the  night  Some  of  the  party  did  not  Come  up  till 
next  morning — 

the  Pirarie  over  Which  We  pased  to  day  is  a  little 
Roleing  but  So  dry  for  the  Want  of  Rain  that  grass 
is  not  more  than  one  Inch  and  a  Half  long  in  any  place 

Cors  this  day  north  55  East  30  miles  five  miles  Was 
in  the  night — 39 

Satterday  8th  June  1822 
We  did  not  Set  out  till  late  Waiting  for  the  three  men 
that  lay  out — the  arived  about  Eight  oclock  We  then 
Set  out  and  maid  twenty  miles — and  Camped  at  a 
Small  Hole  of  Watter  that  you  Cold  Smell  50  yds 

39  A  long  lap  in  the  open  to  a  blind  camp,  and  copy  a  little 
vitiated  by  some  interlineation  not  quite  clear.  But  we  can  fol- 
low the  trail  pretty  closely.  The  "  mountain  to  our  right "  is  the 
general  elevation  of  the  Mesa  de  Maya,  along  which  Fowler 
passes  about  E.  N.  E. ,  crossing  successive  dry  drains  of  tribu- 
taries of  Purgatory  river,  all  running  to  his  left.  Rounding  the 
extreme  W.  point  of  the  Mesa  said,  Fowler  steers  past  "  a  small 
mountain  standing  by  itself,"  which  appears  to  be,  by  a  singular 
coincidence,  an  isolated  part  of  the  general  elevation  now  known 
as  Fowler  Mesa.  Further  on  E.  along  the  N.  border  of  the 
Maya  Mesa,  is  the  better-known  Mt.  Carrizo,  capped  by  Potatoe 
Butte  ;  the  line  between  Las  Animas  and  Baca  counties  cuts  this 


TO  TWO  BUTTE  CREEK.  1 5  I 

When  Stired — for  all  the  anemels  for  many  miles 
Round  Come  there  to  drink — We  Have  no  Wood  and 
Burn  the  Buffelow  dung  to  Cook  We  are  now  In  the 
oppen  World  not  a  tree  Bush  or  Hill  of  any  kind  to  be 
Seen  for  When  you  take  the  Eye  of  [off]  the  ground 
you  See  nothing  but  the  Blue  Horeson  Cors  this  day 
north  60  East  17  [sic]  miles  40  Ward  and  McKnight 
killed  one  Buffelow  Bull — 

Sunday  9th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  over  the  leavel  Smoth  Pirarie  We  Soon 
See  a  mound  a  Head  in  the  Pirarie  for  Which  We 
Steered  it  bore  north  30  East — We  Crossed  Several 
Watter  Corses  all  makeing  South  East  but  all  dry 
We  Stoped  for  dinner  at  a  Small  mud  Hole  Whear 
We  maid  fire  of  the  Buffelow  dung  and  cooked  our 
dinner  We  then  moved  on  and  Camped  on  a  Crick 41 
of  of  Clear  Watter  Whear  there  Was  Wood  and  good 

isolated  elevation  about  lat.  370  10'  N.,  and  long.  103  0  05'  W. 
Camp  cannot  be  far  from  the  obscure  place  called  Willow  Spring, 
on  one  of  the  collateral  sources  of  Two  Butte  creek — possibly  at 
that  identical  water-hole. 

40  Passing  from  Las  Animas  Co.  to  camp  at  some  indeter- 
minable point  in  Baca  Co. ,  west  of  Springfield.  From  the  de- 
gree of  easting  made,  and  what  is  presently  said  of  the  S.  E. 
course  of  the  dry  washes  to  be  passed  to-morrow,  I  suppose 
Fowler  to  be  among  the  numberless  and  nameless  drains  which 
make  for  tributaries  of  Cimarron  river. 

41  Two  Butte  creek,  at  a  point  Fowler  gives  as  3  m.  short  of  the 
Two  Buttes  whence  it  takes  its  name.    Camp  is  still  in  Baca  Co. , 


152 


A  CONSPICUOUS  LANDMARK. 


grass  for  the  Horses — the  BufTelow  killed  this  day 
Was  two  Poor  for  use  and  not  Buchered  the  grass  is 
Heare  Better  and  there  is  sign  of  there  Haveing  been 
Some  Rain  Heare  lately — 
Cors  north  30  East  25  miles 

monday  10th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  and  at  three  miles  pased  the  mound  42 
it  Stands  on  the  north  Side  of  the  Crick  and  about 
two  miles  from  it  I  Went  to  the  top  of  it  Which  Has 
two  Heads  about  70  yds  apart  Standing  north  and 
South  of  Each  other  and  is  about  two  Hundred  feet 
High  and  about  300  threw  the  Baces  the  tops  or 
Heads  Consist  mostly  of  Rocks  Pilled  By  nature  on 
Each  other  But  Has  been  Some  What  Improved 
by  the  Indeans  to  make  it  aplace  of  defence  as  Well 
as  place  of  look  out — the  Spanish  name  of  the  mound 
tewenna — from  Heare  We  See  another  Branch  43  on 
our  left  and  a  Cross  the  main  Crick  another  to  the 
South  all  makeing  a  north  East  Corse — We  Continu 

but  very  near  the  border  of  Prowers  Co.  Fowler's  ' '  mound  " 
above  said  is  Two  Buttes,  a  conspicuous  landmark,  the  first  ab- 
solutely identifiable  one  we  have  had  for  several  days.  The 
principal  one  of  his  several  dry  water-courses  is  Bear  creek,  that 
tributary  of  the  Cimarron  which  runs  past  Springfield. 

42  Two  Buttes,  position  as  said  with  reference  to  Two  Butte 
creek,  and  1  m.  due  N.  of  the  boundary  between  Baca  and 
Prowers  counties. 

43  North  Butte  creek,  principal  fork  of  Two  Butte  creek. 


/ 


DINNER  ON  THE  ARKANSAW.  1 53 

on  twelve  miles  and  Stoped  for  dinner  on  the  left 
Hand  forke  and  at  Eight  miles  further  Camped  44  on 
the  main  Crick  a  little  above  the  forkes  the  Chanel  is 
Heare  about  60  yds  Wide  and  We  Have  to  dig  Holes 
In  the  Sand  to  get  Watter  there  being  none  above 
ground — Eaight  Buffelow  Was  killed  this  day — 
our  Corse  N°  55  East  20  miles 

tusday  nth  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  Crosing  the  Crick  and  leaveing  it  on 
our  left  Hand  Steered  north  55  East  at  fifteen  miles 
We  See  the  valley  of  the  arkensaw  and  on  looking 
[back]  We  Can  See  the  mound  in  full  vew — at 
twenty  miles  stoped  for  diner  on  the  arkensaw  45 — at 
an  Island  Covered  With  timber  and  some  trees  on  the 
South  Side  of  the  River  there  Is  Sevral  Islands 
Heare  Some  Covered  With  Willow  about  one  mile 
below  the  Island  there  is  an  old  large  Cotten  Wood 

44  On  Two  Butte  creek,  a  little  above  the  confluence  of  North 
Butte  creek,  having  passed  from  Baca  Co.  into  Prowers  Co. 
when  opposite  the  Two  Buttes.  If  he  had  kept  on  a  little  further, 
about  4  m.  below  the  forks,  he  would  have  reached  Butte  Springs, 
and  need  not  have  dug  for  water. 

45  Striking  the  Arkansaw  about  opposite  Coolidge,  in  Kansas 
near  the  border  of  Colorado.  Camp  of  Nov.  4,  1821,  which 
Fowler  presently  mentions,  was  a  mile  lower  down.  As  he  says 
on  Nov.  5  that  he  went  9  m.  to  reach  "a  large  crick"  (Two 
Butte  creek),  he  appears  to  have  struck  the  Arkansaw  8  m.  below 
that  creek — i.  e.,  about  opposite  Coolidge,  as  just  said. 


154  COOLIDGE  TO  SYRACUSE,  KANSAS. 


tree  Stands  on  a  point  of  High  land — Cheefly  Com- 
posed of  gravel  our  Corse  north  55  East  20  miles 

nth  June  [continued.] 
after  dinner  We  proceded  down  the  River  ten  miles 
and  Camped  46  on  the  Bank  In  a  grove  of  trees  ope- 
set  an  Island — the  Sand  Hills  lay  South  of  Camp  With 
Some  Cotten  Wood  trees  on  them — We  pased  the 
Camp  Wheare  We  Slept  on  the  fourth  of  november 
[1821]  about  one  mile  below  Wheare  We  Struck  the 
River  to  day — 

Wensday  12th  June  1822 
We  Set  out  at  the  ushal  time  down  the  River  and  pas- 
ing  the  Camp  at  the  Bever  Sign  Where  We  lay  on  the 
3rd  of  november  last  Continu  to  the  Point  of  Rocks 
and  Hoop  Wood  trees — Wheare  a  party  of  Indeans 
appeered  on  Hors  back  on  the  opeset  Side  of  the 
River — We  Hailed  them  the  answered  but  Wold  not 
Come  a  Cross — We  then  Camped  for  the  night — the 
Indeans  moved  off  and  Soon  after  a  party  of  White 
men  appeered  on  the  Same  Side  one  of  them  Came 
over  to  our  Camp  this  Was  Conl  Cooppers  47  party 
from  Boons  lick  47  on  their  Way  to  the  Spanish  Set- 

46  Vicinity  of  Syracuse,  Hamilton  Co.,  Kas. 

41  No  doubt  Braxton  Cooper,  from  Daniel  Boone's  salt  works, 
which  were  about  4  m.  from  Franklin,  Mo.  See  Lewis  and  Clark, 
ed.  of  1893,  p.  18,  and  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  367,  570. 


CONTINUING  DOWN  THE  ARKANSAW.         I  55 


tlement  With  Some  goods  and  Some  traps  to  take 
Bever 

thorsday  13th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  pasing  the  french  Camp  at  five  miles 
and  Stoped  for  dinner  at  the  Island  Wheare  We 
lodged  on  the  30th  of  October  last  then  moved  down 
the  River  about  ten  miles  Camped  on  an  Island  make- 
ing  30  miles — 

Friday  14th  June  1822 
moved  on  Early  and  Pased  our  Camp  of  the  29th 
octobr  last — and  all  So  pased  the  Camp  of  the  28th 
and  Camped  opeset  to  an  Island  Wheare  We  Sent  the 
Horses  for  the  night — this  day  James  and  party  left 
us  and  Commenced  Crossing  the  River  about  12 
oclock  takeing  three  of  our  Party  With  them — that 
Was  duglas  Priar  and  [illegible  48] — maid  25  miles 

Satterday  15th  June  1822 
moved  at  Sun  Rise  down  the  River  fifteen  miles  and 
Comenced  Crossing  for  Which  purpose  We  used  the 
green  Hide  of  a  buffelow  Bull  by  Way  of  a  boat — 
Heare  are  Some  thousands  of  Buffelow  to  be  Seen  at 

48  George  Douglas,  Nathaniel  Pry  or,  and  one  unidentifiable 
man.  The  blind  word  looks  like  ' 4  Rohland  "  or  "  Soulard,"  but  is 
nothing  like  any  name  previously  occurring  in  this  MS.  It  must 
be  that  of  some  man  who  joined  the  party  at  Taos,  or  else  the 
missing  Christian  name  of  one  of  the  party  mustered  on  p  4. 


156 


THE   DRY  ROUTE  CUT-OFF. 


one  vew — I  beleve  We  Have  not  been  out  of  Sight 
of  Buffelow  Since  We  Came  to  the  River  Except  in 
the  night  and  When  darke  So  that  the  Hunters  Have 
Killed  When  the  plased — We  got  on  the  north  Side 
of  the  River  and  While  We  Ware  Sadling  up  the 
Horses  James  and  party  pased  us.  it  may  be  Re- 
marked Heare  that  the  River  Was  little  more  than 
Belly  deep  to  the  Horses.  But  for  feer  of  the  quick 
Sand  it  Was  thaught  best  take  all  the  Bagage  over  In 
the  Boat  and  Send  the  Horses  over  Enty  [empty] 
Waiding  the  River  our  Selves  and  drag  the  boat 
Wheare  the  Watter  at  times  Was  not  more  than  Six 
Inches  deep — as  Soon  as  We  Ware  Readey  We  moved 
on  Six  miles  pasing  findleys  Island  49  and  Camped 
about  Half  a  mile  below  James  and  party — 

Sunday  16th  June  1822 
James  and  Party  pased  us  Early  down  the  River  We 
Steered  a  little  north  of  East  to  Cut  off  a  bend  of  the 
River  50  makeing  25  miles  and  lay  In  Sight  of  the 
timber  on  the  River  large  droves  of  Buffelow  all  day 
In  Sight  duglas  and  Prior  Join  us  to  day 

49  Unidentified— named  for  one  of  the  party.  See  back,  Oct. 
22,  p.  26. 

50  Hitherto  Fowler  has  retraced  his  steps  down  the  Arkansaw, 
and  the  points  passed  are  easily  reckoned  by  back  references. 
But  here  he  leaves  the  river  to  cut  off  the  large  bend  it  makes  in 
sweeping  past  Ford,  where  Mulberry  creek  comes  in.  For  this 
"  dry  route  "  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  433,  434. 


/ 


COON  CREEK — PAWNEES.  1 57 

monday  17th  June  1822 
moved  on  Early  maid  25  miles  and  camped  on  the 
West  Side  of  Buffelow  [Coon]  Creek  at  the  Same 
place  Wheare  We  Camped  on  the  We  Camped  on  the 
2 1  st  of  octobr  last — James  and  Party  Camp  Close  to 
us — Heare  We  Sopose  We  Cold  See  at  one  time  ten 
thousand  Buffelow 

tusday  18th  June  1822 
We  Comenced  Crossing  the  Crick  Early  it  being 
about  mid  Side  deep  to  the  Horses  and  the  Banks 
Steep  and  mudey  the  men  Waided  and  Carryed  over 
all  the  Packs  and  then  led  or  drove  the  Horses  a 
Cross — We  then  moved  on  about  Eight  miles  and 
meet  With  Some  Pawne  Indeans — With  Home 
[whom]  We  Camped — there  Was  With  them  one  of 
the  Ietan  Cheefs  Who  Stated  that  He  Was  lately  from 
Was[h]ington  Cetey — In  the  Corse  of  the  Evening 
the  Indeans  Collected  to  the  nomber  of  from  four  to 
five  Hunderd — it  is  Hear  proper  to  mention  that  Capt 
James  Had  two  Spanierds  With  Him  and  that  Conl 
glann  Head  two  all  So — but  the  last  two  Ware  dresed 
like  our  Selves — but  James  Spanierds  Wore  their  own 
Clothing  and  Ware  Challenged  by  the  Indeans  as 
their  Enemeys — a  Councel  Was  Held  Which  lasted 
about  two  Hours  the  Inquirey  Was  Whether  these 
men  Ware  Spanierds  if  so  the  must  be  killed  as  Ietan 


158  HERE  WE  MUST  FIB  A  LITTLE. 

Cheef  Insisted  the  Ware  Spanierds  and  must  be  killed 
but  the  Pawne  Cheef  Refused  to  Have  them  killed 
till  He  new  the  Ware  Spanierds  the  two  men  Ware 
Sot  In  the  midle  of  the  Councel  and  there  Interageted 
but  maid  no  answer  leting  on  that  the  did  not  no 
What  Was  Said  to  them — to  Which  the  had  ben  ad- 
vised before  they  Ware  takeing  In  to  the  Councel 
most  of  those  Indeans  understand  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage but  Cold  not  git  one  Word  from  the  men  the 
then  asked  Mr  Roy  the  Inturpurter  If  those  men  Ware 
not  Spanierds  He  told  the  Indeans  He  did  not  kno 
Who  the  Ware  that  He  Cold  not  Speeke  their  lan- 
gage  to  Which  the  Ietan  Cheef  Replyed  you  do  not 
kno  thim  you  kno  How  to  gave  them  Horses  and 
Can  tell  them  How  to  Ride  and  yet  you  Can  not 
Spapke  to  them  Which  is  a  little  Strange  How  do 
you  git  them  to  Eat  or  Whare  did  you  git  them  We 
See  them  Ride  on  your  Horses — to  Which  mr  Roy 
answers  as  followes — for  it  is  Hear  now  be  Com  nes- 
ceery  to  fib  a  little — that  about  two  days  back  We 
met  a  party  of  White  men  going  up  the  River  and  that 
those  men  Ware  With  them  that  the  Ware  from  St 
lewis  and  Wanted  to  go  back  and  Had  Come  this  far 
With  us  that  We  Head  Some  Spare  Horses  and  that 
the  Had  got  on  and  Road — the  Pawne  Cheef  then 
Said  that  Some  four  or  five  years  back  He  Had  Seen 
Some  English  men  and  french  men  together  and  the 


IN  COUNCIL  AT  PAWNEE  FORK.  1 59 

Cold  not  talk  to  Each  other  that  maybe  those  Ware 
English  men — to  Which  Mr  Roy  answered  that  He 
Cold  not  talk  English  and  did  not  kno  these  men — 
and  So  the  Councel  Ended  the  two  Spanierds  Pased 
for  English  men  tho  the  Ware  nearly  as  Black  as  pall 
— but  at  all  Events  the  Ware  Blacker  than  the  Inde- 
ans  them  Selves — 

We  are  now  on  the  Crick  noted  on  the  20th  of  Octo- 
ber last  [Pawnee  fork.] — We  Remained  Heare  all 
night  but  In  the  Evening  the  Indeans  [s]tole  all  the 
neck  Roaps  of  our  Horses — We  then  took  the  lash 
Roaps  and  tyed  up  the  Horses  the  Pawne  Cheef  Slept 
In  our  Camp — and  after  Some  presents  of  knives 
from  Conl  glann  and  Hors  from  Capt  James  We 
Head  lev  to  proced  as  Soon  as  We  pleased  In  the 
morning — 

Wensday  19th  June  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  the  Indeans  appeer  frendly — We 
moved  on  about  five  miles  and  looking  behind  We 
See  the  Indeans  Riming  after  us — and  all  tho  We 
drove  the  Horses  In  a  trot  the  Will  overtake  us  In  a 
few  minets — We  Conclude  it  best  to  Stop  and  let 
them  Come  up  Which  Was  done — We  Stood  pre- 
paired  for  Battle  But  Will  Receve  them  frendly  if 
We  Can — now  the  Inturpreter  prepaired  a  pipe  and 
offered  them  a  Smoke  as  the  Came  up  Which  the  all 


l6o  WALNUT  CREEK — COW  CREEK. 

axcepted  of  and  looking  amongest  [us]  asked 
Wheare  the  two  men  Ware  Which  the  Soposed  to  be 
Spanierds  and  Ware  Shone  them — the  then  Went  and 
Shook  Hands  With  us  all  pointed  us  the  Road  Which 
We  took  and  the  Indeans  Went  Back  the  Ware  four- 
teen In  nomber — We  then  pushed  on  to  the  Pawne 
River  51  Wheare  Crossed  and  Stoped  for  dinner  Heare 
is  large  Hords  of  Buffelow  one  Cow  Was  Killed  and 
braught  In  to  Camp — We  moved  on  In  the  afternoon 
and  Went  nineteen  miles  makeing  39  miles  and 
Camped  52  on  the  River  Bank  the  [11]  We  traveled 
Some  time  In  the  night  for  feer  the  Indeans  Will  fol- 
low and  steel  our  Horses — James  and  His  party  did 
not  Come  up — 

thorsday  20th  June  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  and  Steered  north  60  East  Intend- 
ing to  go  Close  to  the  South  Side  of  the  Sand  Hills 
as  We  Cannot  travel  threw  them  We  Ware  detained 
about  two  Hours  By  a  Storm  of  Hail  and  Rain  after 
Which  We  Went  to  a  Crick  53  Wheare  We  found 

51  Of  our  author=Walnut  creek,  near  Great  Bend  :  see  back, 
notes  at  p.  22  and  p.  23. 

5S  Vicinity  of  Raymond,  Rice  Co. 

53  Cow  creek  or  one  of  its  branches  ;  vicinity  of  Lyons,  seat  of 
Rice  Co. 

Fowler  has  left  the  Arkansaw  and  taken  up  a  devious  'cross 
country  route,  which  is  to  bring  him  through  Kansas  into  Missouri 
near  Kansas  City  and  so  on  through  Independence,  Mo.,  to  Fort 


/ 


A  NEW  DEPARTURE.  l6l 

Some  drift  Wood  and  Camped  for  the  night  makeing 
20  miles  N°  60  East  James  and  party  Bore  off  to  the 
Right  down  the  River — 

Friday  21st  June  1822 
Sot  out  late  Some  of  our  Horses  Had  gon  a  great 
distance  from  Camp — We  Pased  Close  to  the  Sand 
Hills  pasing  several  fine  Springs  Runing  out  of  them 
to  the  South  and  In  the  Evening  Camped  on  the  lit- 
tle arkensaw — We  Seen  James  and  partey  this  day  at 
a  great  distance  to  our  Right  makeing  down  the  [Ar- 
kansaw]  River  the  Cuntry  threw  Which  We  pased 
this  day  is  leavel  and  Rich  the  grass  tall  and  Has  all 
the  appeerence  of  Seasnable  Rains.  We  Have  In  our 
openion  layed  down  the  Pawne  River  [= Walnut  cr.] 

Osage,  on  the  Missouri  river.  In  1822  the  road  which  soon  be- 
came the  long  famous  Santa  Fe  caravan  route  from  Independ- 
ence to  the  great  bend  of  the  Arkansaw  was  hardly  established. 
This  went  through  Council  Grove,  by  the  most  direct  way  which 
the  traders  found  it  convenient  to  take.  For  an  examination  of 
this  route  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  pp.  517-522.  It  is  interesting  to 
note,  as  showing  that  no  such  route  as  this  had  become  estab- 
lished and  well  known  when  Fowler  went  through,  that  he  devi- 
ates widely  from  what  would  have  been  his  most  direct  and 
in  every  way  most  eligible  line  of  march.  As  we  recover  his 
trail  we  shall  find  it  to  be  one  now  unknown,  looping  far  to  the 
S.  into  Butler  Co.,  then  passing  heads  of  the  Verdigris,  crossing 
the  Neosho  below  the  mouth  of  the  Cottonwood,  and  so  on  east- 
ward with  the  requisite  northing.  I  regard  the  trail  we  now 
take  up  as  something  of  an  unexpected  discovery. 


1 62      ROUNDABOUT  BY  THE  LITTLE  ARKANSAW. 


as  the  line  betwen  the  Wet  and  dry  Weather  or  the 
long  and  Short  grass — 

maid  30  miles  north  [read  south]  60  East 54 

Satterday  22nd  June  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  Crossing  Several  Branches  55  all 
Running  to  the  Right  We  Camped  on  a  Branch  of 
White  River  56  about  20  feet  Wide  With  High  Banks 

54  From  any  position  in  which  last  night's  camp  can  have  been, 
it  is  impossible  to  bring  Fowler  to  the  Little  Arkansaw  on  any- 
such  course  as  N.  6o°  E.  30  miles.  That  course  and  distance 
would  take  him  far  beyond  the  Little  Arkansaw,  to  some  point 
about  the  heads  of  Turkey  cr. ,  N.  of  McPherson.  Moreover,  he 
would  never  have  seen  the  other  party  making  down  the 
Arkansaw.  Once  more,  the  change  I  have  made  in  reading  the 
text  is  required  by  what  follows.  He  can  be  brought  in  "30" 
miles  S.  6o°  E.  to  the  Little  Arkansaw  somewhere  about  the 
mouth  of  Turkey  creek,  in  Harvey  Co.  Observe  that  to-morrow's 
course,  S.  650  E.,  is  practically  in  the  same  direction  he  travels 
to-day. 

55  Of  the  Little  Arkansaw,  running  S. ;  these  are  the  Emma 
creeks  and  Sand  creek,  the  latter  flowing  through  Newton, 
Harvey  Co. 

56  Walnut  creek — not  to  be  confounded  with  the  other  of  the 
same  name  which  joins  the  Arkansaw  near  Great  Bend.  This 
Walnut  creek  falls  into  the  Arkansaw  near  the  border  of 
Oklahoma,  being  the  one  called  White  river  by  Fowler  on 
Oct.  9  (p.  16),  one  of  whose  branches  is  still  known  as  White- 
water. Camp  is  on  one  of  these,  near  the  boundary  between 
Harvey  and  Butler  counties.  We  now  realize  what  a  roundabout 
route  Fowler  is  taking  from  the  great  bend  of  the  Arkansaw 
to  Fort  Osage  on  the  Missouri,  being  far  S.  of  the  regular 
"  Santa  Fe  Trail"  that  was  soon  to  become  established. 


CROSSING  HEADS  OF  WALNUT  CREEK.         1 63 

— the  Pirarie  this  day  is  leavel  and  Rich  the  land 
Black  mixed  With  lime  Stone — the  grass  So  tall  that 
In  [it]  is  Hard  on  the  Horses  to  Brake  it  down — no 
more  Buffelow  to  be  Seen  I  beleve  We  Have  left  them 
all  be  Hind  and  Will  be  Hard  Run  for  meat — 
maid  20  miles  South  65  East 

Sunday  23rd  June  1822 
Rained  Hard  last  night — 

We  Sot  out  about  9  oclock  Crosing  three 
Branches  57  Runing  to  the  South  all  Well  timbered 
Rich  lime  Stone  land  a  little  Roleing.  We  Camped 
on  the  third  Branch — no  game — 

Maid  20  miles  N 0  80  East 

Rained  all  night — 

monday  24  June  1822 
We  Sot  out  Early  and  it  Soon  began  to  Rain  We 
maid  Six  miles  Crossing  two  Branches  58  and  Camped 
on  the  Second  Which  is  Well  timbered  With  Walnut 
Buckiey  Hickory  oak  and  Elm.  the  land  of  the 

57  Of  the  same  Walnut  creek,  on  a  course  nearly  E.,  in 
Butler  Co. 

58  Of  the  same  Walnut  creek — the  second  branch  above  said 
being  the  main  source  of  this  stream,  interlocking  with  a  source 
of  the  south  fork  of  Cottonwood  river,  nearly  on  the  line  between 
Butler  and  Chase  counties.  Camp  about  the  place  called  Syca- 
more Springs,  in  Butler  Co. 


164      HEADS  OF  COTTONWOOD  AND  VERDIGRIS. 


Richest  kind — lime  Stone  In  all  Banks  but  the  leave 
[level]  land  Clar  of  Stone — 

6  miles  north  65  East 

Rained  all  night 

tusday  25th  June  1822 
Set  out  about  10  oclock  up  the  Branch  and  out  at  the 
Head  of  it  and  over  a  low  deviding  Ridge  and  fell  on 
the  Head  Watters  of  the  virdegree.59  the  land  is  more 
Roleing  the  Hills  Higher  but  Rich  We  Camped  on  a 
Branch  Runing  nearly  West  With  Some  timber  Peno 
killed  one  deer 

maid  15  miles  no  50  East 

Wensday  26th  June  1822 
We  Sot  out  Early  pasing  over  a  Rich  Roleing  Pirarie 
to  a  Crick  60  With  Some  timber — taylor  killed  two 

59  Not  quite  yet — Fowler  has  still  to  pass  the  heads  of  the 
south  fork  of  the  Cottonwood,  which  he  mistakes  for  those  of 
the  Verdigris.  No  head  of  the  Verdigris  flows  anything  like 
west,  as  he  says  that  branch  does  on  which  he  camps.  All  his 
indications  set  camp  unmistakably  at  or  near  Thurman,  Chase 
Co.,  on  that  branch  of  Thurman  creek  which  runs  westerly. 
This  creek  is  joined  at  Matfield  Green  by  two  others,  the  three 
together  composing  the  south  fork  of  the  Cottonwood,  running 
N.  This  is  a  queer  place  to  find  a  man  on  his  way  from  Great 
Bend  to  Kansas  City — but  here  he  is  ! 

60  Head  of  Verdigris  river,  in  Chase  Co.,  at  the  distance  and  in 
the  direction  said  from  Thurman. 


/ 


NEOSHO  RIVER  BELOW  EMPORIA.  165 

deer — We  maid  8  miles  no  15  East  It  Rains 
Heavely — 

thorsday  27th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  Crossing  five  Cricks61  all  Runing  South 
East  Some  timber  on  all  of  them  one  twenty  yds 
Wide  the  Cuntry  as  ushal  Rich  and  Roleing — Robert 
Fowler  and  Ward  Each  killed  one  deer — 
maid  15  miles  N  25  East 

Friday  28th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  Crossing  a  Crick  at  Six  miles  Runing 
South  and  at  12  miles  Cam  to  grand  River  or  the  Six 
Bull  [the  Neosho,62  running]  South  East  Went  up 
it  about  one  mile  Crossed  over  and  Camped  on  a 
Crick  near  the  mouth  this  Crick  Puts  In  on  the  north 
Side  Heare  Is  one  of  the  Best  trakes  [tracts]  of  land 
for  a  settlement  I  Have  Seen  the  land  is  Rich  and 
leavel  Plenty  of  timber  on  the  Crick  as  Well  as  all  a 
long  the  River — taylor  killed  one  Elk — Which  Was 
Braught  to  Camp  We  maid  12  miles  no  40  East 

61  The  Verdigris  itself  and  four  of  its  collateral  heads,  named 
Camp,  Fawn,  Rock,  and  Moon.  Fowler's  trail  here  crosses  that 
of  Pike,  who  was  camped  on  one  of  these  creeks  Sept.  10,  1806. 
For  the  remarkable  fan-shaped  leash  of  streamlets  which  com- 
pose the  headwaters  of  the  Verdigris,  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895, 
p.  400.    Camp  in  vicinity  of  Olpe,  Lyon  Co. 

62  The  Neosho  is  struck  at  a  point  between  Neosho  Rapids  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Cottonwood,  some  8  m.  a  little  S.  of  E.  from 
Emporia,  seat  of  Lyon  Co. 


MARAIS  DES   CYGNES,  ETC. 


Satterday  29th  June  1822 
Set  out  Early  and  at  ten  miles  Crosed  a  Crick  63  50 
yds  Wide  part  of  the  Racuon  fork  of  the  osage  River 
the  Corse  South  East — at  14  miles  Crosed  a  Branch 
of  the  Same  Crick — and  at  22  miles  Camped  Without 
Wood — Had  no  her — the  first  10  miles  N  15  E  the 
last  12  miles  N  65  E  the  Bottoms  Has  Some  timber 
the  land  all  Rich  Rained  Heavily  all  night  With  thon- 
der  and  lightning — 

22  miles  the  first  10  N  15  E  then  12  N  65  E 

Sunday  30th  June  1822 
last  night's  Rain  Wett  all  our  Bagage  as  Well  as  the 
bever  furr  the  morning  Clear  We  dry  all  our  things 
and  move  on  about  10  oclock — at  10  miles  Crossed  a 
Crick 64  and  at  Sixteen  miles  Crosed  the  osage 
River  65  Wheare  We  left  one  Hors  He  Coud  not  Rais 

63  Marais  des  Cygnes  creek,  continuation  of  Marais  des  Cygnes 
river,  as  the  main  course  of  the  Osage  river  in  Kansas  is  still 
called,  by  curious  survival  of  the  pure  French  phrase.  This 
stream  is  struck  in  the  vicinity  of  Reading,  Lyon  Co. ,  nearly  on 
the  border  of  Osage  Co. ;  whence  Fowler  proceeds  about  E.  N.  E. 
across  Cherry  creek,  to  camp  on  the  divide  between  Marais  des 
Cygnes  creek  and  its  Salt  creek  branch — somewhere  between 
Olivet  and  Osage  City,  seat  of  Osage  Co. 

64  Salt  creek,  crossed  in  the  vicinity  of  Lyndon,  seat  of 
Osage  Co. 

65  Dragoon  creek  of  present  nomenclature,  considered  by 
Fowler  as  the  main  Osage  river.  It  is  a  large  stream,  about  the 
size  of  the  Marais  des  Cygnes  itself,  separated  from  the  latter 


/ 


APPANOOSE  CREEK — CAPTAIN  BECKNELL.  167 

up  the  Bank  Which  Was  High  and  mudey — We 
moved  out  of  the  timber  and  Slept  on  a  High  point  to 
avoid  the  the  musketoes  Ward  killed  one  young  Elk 
We  Have  Seen  many  Elk  In  the  two  last  days  Rained 
Heavily  all  night 

maid  16  miles  N  65  E 

monday  1st  July  1822 
the  last  night  Raised  the  Cricks  So  that  We  Have  to 
leave  the  Waggon  [road]  We  fell  into  two  days  back 
Which  Road  Was  maid  by  Becknal  and  His  party  on 
their  Way  to  the  Spanish  Settlement — We  Hear  took 
up  a  low  Ridge  betwen  the  Branches  and  over  a  low 
Ridge  Eight  miles  to  a  large  Crick  66  So  Raised  With 

by  Salt  creek— all  three  of  these  coming  together  within  a  mile 
or  two  of  each  other,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Quenemo, 
Osage  Co. ,  close  to  the  border  of  Franklin  Co.  For  Dragoon  cr. , 
see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  520.  Fowler  is  now  nearing  what  was 
soon  to  become  the  regular  Santa  Fe  caravan  route  from  Inde- 
pendence, Mo.,  to  the  great  bend  of  the  Arkansaw — after  having 
needlessly  made  a  great  bend .  of  his  own  southward  from  that 
direct  line  of  travel. 

66  Appanoose  creek,  a  branch  of  the  Marais  des  Cygnes  which 
falls  in  near  Ottawa,  seat  of  Franklin  Co.,  into  which  Fowler 
has  passed  from  Osage  Co. 

"  In  1 812  a  Captain  Becknell,  who  had  been  on  a  trading  expe- 
dition to  the  country  of  the  Comanches  in  the  summer  of  181 1, 
and  had  done  remarkably  well,  determined  the  next  season  to 
change  his  objective  point  to  Santa  Fe,"  says  Inman,  p.  38. 
When  at  or  near  the  Caches  on  the  Arkansaw,  he  left  that  stream 
and  took  his  party  across  country  on  the  Cimarron  or  dry  route  ; 


l68      WHO  FIRST  CROSSED  KANSAS  ON  WHEELS? 


the  last  night  Rain  that  the  loads  on  the  Horses  Will 
git  Wett  If  We  drive  them  threw  But  the  men  Waid 
over  and  Carry  the  Pack  on  their  Heads — the  Wat- 
ter  Swims  the  Horses — Heare  is  a  large  Bodey  of 
timber  along  this  Crick  and  land  of  the  Best  qualety 
for  the  Hole  Cuntry  is  fit  for  Cultevation  We  Went 
Six  miles  In  the  Evening  Crossing  two  Crick  67  all  the 
Watters  Runs  South  East  maid  14  miles  N  20  E 
the  timber  Increses  as  We  aproch  the  mesurey 
[Missouri] 

tusday  2nd  July  1822 
a  Heavey  thonder  Storm  Came  on  in  the  night  and 
Rained  Hard  till  Sun  Rise  We  then  Sot  out  and  Cros- 

but  they  were  obliged  to  return,  after  suffering  horribly  from 
thirst,  and  follow  up  the  Arkansaw  route  to  Taos. 

"  The  virtual  commencement  of  the  Santa  Fe  trade  dates  from 
1822  "  ;  and  in  1824  was  made  the  first  attempt  to  introduce 
wagons,  etc.,  says  Inman,  p.  51.  According  to  Gregg,  a  better 
authority,  both  pack  animals  and  wagons  were  used  1822-25,  but 
after  that  wagons  only.  According  to  Fowler's  passage  above, 
we  see  that  Becknell  had  taken  wagons  in  1822  if  not  earlier  ; 
and  thus  the  party  to  which  Col.  Marmaduke  was  attached,  and 
which  reached  Santa  Fe  with  wagons  in  1824,  was  not  the  first 
to  pass  through  Kansas  on  wheels. 

67  One  of  these  is  Eight  Mile  creek,  next  branch  of  the  Marais 
des  Cygnes,  falling  in  near  the  mouth  of  the  Appanoose,  at 
Ottawa.  As  4 4  all  the  Watters  runs  South  East,"  we  know  that 
Fowler  is  still  on  the  Osage  watershed,  and  I  am  inclined  to  set 
his  camp  on  one  of  the  heads  of  Ottawa  creek,  some  6  m.  W.  of 
Baldwin  City,  Douglas  Co.,  perhaps  not  far  from  Willow  Springs 
camp  of  the  traders  ;  for  which  see  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  519. 


ON  THE  OSAGE-KANSAS  DIVIDE.  169 

ing  Several  Small  Branches  68  much  Raised  With  last 
nights  Rain  maid  five  miles  and  Stoped  to  dry  our 
Bagage — Heare  Some  Hunters  Sot  out  to  kitt  meet 
[kill  meat]  Robert  Fowler  and  Taylor  Set  out  In  frunt 
to  meet  at  the  Crick  a  Head  of  Which  We  Cold  See 
the  timber — We  Sot  out  In  the  Evening — the  gide 
Chaing  His  Corse  did  not  meet  the  Hunters  We  maid 
12  miles  and  Slept  on  the  devideing  Ridge  69  betwen 
the  oasage  [Osage]  and  Kensa  or  Caw  [Kansas] 
Rivers — the  Hunters  did  not  Come  In — We  See  on 
our  left  Hand  a  large  Bodey  of  timber  Soposed  to  be 
on  the  Caw  River  the  Pirarie  is  a  little  Roleing  and  of 
the  Richest  kind  of  lime  Stone  land  We  maid  17 
miles  N  75  East 

thorsday  [Wednesday]  3rd  July  1822 
We  Sot  out  Early  and  like  a  Ship  With  out  a  Rudder 
We  Steerd  from  South  East  to  north  East — I  Sopose 

68  Heads  of  the  Ottawa  creek  last  said,  especially  of  its  East 
fork.  Fowler  passes  Baldwin  City  to  camp  on  the  divide  between 
the  Osage  and  the  Kansan  waters. 

*9  Position  not  exactly  determinable,  somewhere  between  Bald- 
win City  and  Edgerton,  in  the  vicinity  of  Black  Jack  :  see  Pike, 
ed.  of  1895,  p.  519.  The  divide  is  here  between  heads  of  Big 
Bull  creek,  tributary  to  the  Osage,  on  the  S.,  and  heads  of  Cap- 
tain creek,  a  branch  of  Kansas  river,  on  the  N. — Captain  creek 
being  the  first  branch  from  the  S.  below  the  mouth  of  Wakarusa 
creek,  which  latter  falls  into  the  Kansas  at  Eudora.  From  pres- 
ent camp  Fowler  passes  into  the  watershed  of  the  Kansas  river. 


I  JO  IN  THE  KANSAS  RIVER  WATERSHED. 

the  gide  Was  lost  or  did  not  as  He  Had  toled  us  kno 
Wheare  He  Was — In  this  [way]  We  maid  twelve 
miles  and  Stoped  for  noon  for  We  Have  not  much  to 
Eat  tho  We  See  many  deer  and  Some  Elk — the  two 
Hunters  not  Come  up  yet — We  moved  on  In  the 
Evening  and  Soon  fell  on  the  Waggon  Road  We  had 
left  at  the  osage  River  this  We  followed  ten  miles  and 
Camped  on  a  Crick  70  Runing  north  West — and  We 
Sopose  to  the  Caw  River — Ward  killed  a  fatt  Elk  this 
Evening    the  Hunters  not  up — 

We  maid  22  miles  N  30  East 

Rich  leavel  land — 

thorsday  4th  July  1822 
We  Set  out  Early  to  follow  the  Waggon  Road  but 
Heare  the  Pirarie  Has  Been  Burned  In  the  Spring 
and  the  grass  So  gron  up  So  that  We  Cannot  find  it 
— and  after  Winding  about  for  about  two  Hours 
Steered  N  45  East  Six  miles  and  fell  on  a  Road  Run- 
ing nearly  East  and  West — along  Which  We  took 
[to]  the  East  Eand  Wheare  We  found  the  Waggon 
tracks — a  large  Bodey  of  timber  on  our  left  and  is 
Shorly  the  mesurey  or  the  Caw  River  and  at  about 

,0  Cedar  creek,  a  branch  of  Kansas  river,  as  Fowler  supposed. 
Camp  on  it  in  the  vicinity  of  Olathe,  Johnson  Co.,  Kas.  See 
Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  510.  The  direct  distance  is  much  less  than 
41  22  "  m. ;  but  the  party  wandered  about  all  the  morning. 


/ 


FROM  KANSAS  INTO  MISSOURI.  171 

Six  miles  Stoped  for  dinner — While  Heare  the  lost 
men  Came  up  the  Ware  much  Woren  down  there  feet 
Sore  and  mogersons  Woren  out — We  Went  ten  miles 
In  the  Evening  along  the  Road  Crossing  one  Crick  71 
Which  Runs  north — 

the  large  Bodey  of  timber  Still  Continus  on  our  left 
the  general  Corse  of  this  Road  is  north  Eighty 
East — 

Friday  5th  July  1822 
Sot  out  Early  and  at  five  miles  Crossing  a  large 
Crick  72  50  yds  Wide  Runs  north  the  Bottoms  and 
Hill  Sides  are  Well  Covered  With  timber — We  Heare 
Went  up  a  High  Steep  Hill  over  Some  Rocks  and 
Continu  over  High  Roleing  ground  partly  Covered 
With  timber  and  Brush  for  about  four  miles  then  six 
miles  over  Roling  Pirarie  to  a  Crick  73  Wheare  We 
Stoped  for  dinner  there  Is  plenty  of  timber  Heare  and 
the  gide  tells  us  that  He  now  knos  Wheare  We  are  and 

71  Turkey  creek  or  a  branch  of  it ;  this  falls  into  the  Kansas 
river  within  present  limits  of  Kansas  City,  Mo.  Camp  on  or  near 
the  Kansas-Missouri  line,  5  m.  from  where  the  road  then  crossed 
Big  Blue  river. 

12  Big  Blue  river,  falling  into  the  Missouri  between  Kansas  City 
and  Independence,  Jackson  Co.,  Mo.  See  Lewis  and  Clark,  ed. 
of  1893,  p.  32,  and  Pike,  ed.  of  1895,  p.  519.  Fowler  has  just 
passed  from  4<  the  Indian  Territory  "  into  "  the  States  " — that  is, 
from  Kansas  into  Missouri. 

73  One  of  several  between  Big  and  Little  Blue  rivers,  at  or  near 
Independence,  Mo. 


172 


INDEPENDENCE  TO  SIBLEY. 


that  it  is  about  ten  miles  to  fort  osage  We  Sot  out  In 
the  Evening  and  at  three  miles  Came  to  a  deep 
Crick  74  Wheare  the  men  Had  to  Carry  the  Bagage  all 
over  on  their  Heads  and  drove  the  Horses  threw — the 
Watter  Was  So  deep  that  it  Was  over  the  mens 
Sholders  and  none  but  the  tall  ones  Cold  Carry  the 
Packs — We  then  Set  out  for  the  fort 75  Wheare  We 
arived  about  ten  oClock  at  night  but  our  Company 
Was  much  Scattered  Haveing  Sent  mr  Roy  and 
Battes  forward  from  the  Crick  to  prepair  Supper  at 
the  fort  fore  the  Party — on  our  arivel  We  Called  for 
them  but  the  Ware  not  to  be  found  nor  Cold  We  find 
any  purson  for  Some  time  but  a  negro  man — and 
thonder  gust  Comeing — He  Shewed  [us]  In  to  mr 
Sibleys  Porch  Wheare  We  Spent  the  Ballence  of  the 
night — 

Satterday  6th  July  1822 
Early  In  the  morning  We  found  mr  Boggs  the  asist- 
ant  Factor  Who  Shewed  us  Into  an  Enty  [empty] 
House  In  the  garison — to  Which  We  moved  our 

u  Little  Blue  river,  the  Hay  Cabin  creek  of  Lewis  and  Clark. 
See  ed.  of  1893,  p.  31. 

15  At  Fort  point,  later  called  Sibley,  on  the  Missouri,  between 
Independence  and  Lexington,  Mo.  Fort  Osage  was  built  'in 
Sept.,  1808,  was  sometimes  called  Fort  Clark,  and  in  Fowler's 
time  was  still  an  extreme  frontier  establishment.  See  Lewis  and 
Clark,  ed.  of  1893,  p.  30. 


COOLNESS  AT  FORT  OSAGE. 


173 


Bagage.  Exspecting  to  Remain  there  till  Some  pro- 
vetions  Cold  be  Precured — 

the  garreson  at  this  time  Was  Commanded  by  one 
officer  of  the  united  States  armey — Haveing  two  men 
under  His  Command  Both  of  them  Haveing  disarted 
a  few  days  ago  and  Carryed  off  all  His  amenetion — 
now  It  appeers  that  mr  Boggs  Had  not  advised  Him 
of  our  Removel  Into  the  garreson  nor  did  We  Sopose 
from  the  Shattered  Setuation  of  Every  thing  We  See 
— that  any  Command  of  men  or  officer  Was  there 
But  Whin  He  looked  up  In  the  morning  and  Seeing 
our  men  and  Bagage  He  Said  to  mr  Boggs  that  He 
did  not  like  to  See  the  gareson  taken  In  that  kind  of 
Stile — but  on  Receeving  that  Information  from  mr 
Boggs  and  the  officer  not  Calling  on  us  We  that 
[thought]  Proper  not  to  be  longer  In  His  Way  and 
moved  about  two  Hunderd  yds  to  a  Spring  and 
Camped  Wheare  after  Some  Diffequalty  We  Pre- 
cured Some  Previtions 

It  may  Heare  Be  Remarked  that.  We  Ware  treeted 
Heare  With  more  Coolness  than  amongest  any  In- 
deans  or  Spanierds  We  meet  With  But  We  feel  great- 
ful  to  mr  Boggs  for  His  Polightness — He  in  the 
morning  Precure  for  us  a  Small  Beef — and  mr  Sibley 
Sent  us  Some  flour  and  Bacon — Which  With  Corn 
meel  and  Bacon  We  Purchased  from  one  of  the  Citi- 
sons  We  maid  out  Prete  Well — for  two  days  to  Rest 


174 


home! 


and  Purchased  two  Conus  [canoes]  With  a  platform 
and  Shiped  all  our  Baggage  With  our  Selves  leaveing 
four  men  to  Bring  on  the  Enty  Horses  to  Cortsand 
Ca  [?] — and  We  proceded  to  St  lewis — Wheare  I 
Remained  two  days  and  then  took  a  pasage  In  the 
Steem  Boat  Calhoon  to  lewisvill  and  from  that  In  a 
Small  Steem  Boat  to  Cincinati — and  got  Home76  on 
the  27th  day  of  July  1822 — haveing  [been]  gon  thir- 
teen months  and  thirteen  days 

76  Covington,  Kenton  Co.,  Ky.,  on  the  Ohio  opp.  Cincinnati. 


INDEX. 


A 

Adana,  Col.,  35,  36 
Adobe  cr. ,  48 
Alamosa  cr.,  115 
American  antelope,  12 
Anderson,  Mrs.  M.  B.,  xxiv 
Annals  of  Iowa,  5 
Antelope  park,  125 
Antilocapra  americana,  12 
Apache  cr.,  98 

nation,  137 
Apishapa  r.,  49,  50 
Appanoose  cr.  or  r.,  167,  168 
Arapaho  chief,  62,  64,  66,  67, 

70,  76,  77 
Arapaho  Inds. ,  54,  55,  57,  59,65, 

68,  69,  78,  82,  85,  87,  92 
Arkansas,  xx,  1 

City,  16 

Arkansaw    band    of  Osage 

Inds.,  6 

r,  passim 
Arundinaria  macrosperma,  2 
Ashland  District,  Ky.,  x 
A.,  T.  and  S.  F.  R.  R.  35,  146 

B 

Baca  Co.,  Col.,  150,  151,  152, 
153 

Badito  Cone,  99 


Bad  Salean  or  Saline  r.,  12 
Baldwin  City,  Kas.,  168,  169 

Barbo,  Barbu,   ,  4,  17,  84, 

138 

Barclay,  ,  80 

Barlow,  Sanderson  and  Co.,  47 

Barton  Co.,  Kas.,  22 

Bean    and     Saunders'  Salt 

Works,  2 
Bear  cr.,  152 

Beard,  ,  143 

Beaver  cr.,  11,  13 

Becknal,  Becknell,  Capt.,  167, 

168 

Beckwourth,  James  P.,  xxi,  79 
Been,  ,  see  Bean  and  Saun- 
ders 

Belle  Pointe,  Ark.,  1,  4 
Bent,  Charles,  47 

Col.  William,  47 

Co.,  Col.,  38,  41,  47 

George,  47 

Robert,  47 
Bent's  ft.,  new  and  old,  47 
Big  Blue  r.,  171 

Bull  cr. ,  169 

Coon  cr.,  22,  26 

cr.,  8 

Sandy  cr. ,  32,  36 

Timbers,  47 
Black  Jack,  Kas.,  169 

Peak,  145 
Blue  Mounds,  7,  9 


175 


176 


INDEX. 


Boggs,  Mr.,  172,  173 
Boiling  Spring  r. ,  79 

Bonhomme,  ,  4 

Bonner,  T.  D.,  79 

Bono,  ,  4,  5,  69.  84,  88,  91 

Boone,  Daniel,  154 

Boone's  lick,  154 

Booneville,  Col.,  68 

Bradford,  Maj.,  1 

Brush  cr. ,  x 

Buck  cr.,  11,  12 

Buffelo  cr.,  see  Big  Coon  cr. 

Builder  of  Towns,  6 

Bull  cr.,  21 

Butler,  72 

Co.,  Kas.,  16,  161,  162,  163 
Butte  Springs,  153 

C 

caberey,  cabree,  cabri,  12 
Caches,  167 
Caddoa,  Col.,  38 

cr.,  38 
Cadmus,  xiv 

Calhoon,  a  steamboat,  173 
California,  xix 
Campbell  Co.,  Ky.,  173 
Camp  cr.,  165 

Canadian  r.,  xx,  xxii,  58,  142, 

144,  145,  146,  147 
cane,  2 
Caney  r.,  8 
Canon  City,  Col.,  47 
Captain  cr.,  169 
Carlton,  Col.,  36 
Carson,  Kit,  23 
Catholics,  56 
Catlin,  Col.,  49,  50 
Caw  r.,  see  Kansas  r. 
Cedar  cr.,  170 
Cerro  Chifle,  113 

Cristobal,  113 

Montoso,  113 


Cerro  Olla,  113 

Taoses,  113 

Chambers,  ,  143 

Chaneers,  7 
chaparral  cock,  148 
Chaquaqua  cr. ,  149 
Chase  Co.,  Kas.,  163,  164 
Cherokee  country,  7,  9,  11 

Nation,  2,  3 

strip,  14 
Cherry  cr.,  166 
Cheyenne  Inds.,  55,  59,  65 
Chico  cr.,  69,  70 

Rico  cr.,  147 

Rico  Mesa,  xxi,  147, 148, 149 
Chihuahua,  Mex.,  143 
Chilocco,  Chilocky  cr.,  14 
Chouteau,  Auguste  P.,  32 

John  Pierre,  32 

Pierre,  32 
Chouteau's  isl.,  32,  36 
Cieneguilla  cr.,  144 

N.  M.,  no 
Cimarron  cr.,  144,  145,  146 

Kas.,  29,  32,  149 

mts.,  144,  145 

N.  M.,  145 

r.,  145,  151 

route,  xxi,  167 
Cincinnati,  O.,  45,  174 
Claremore,  Ind.  Terr.,  6 
Clark,  Wm.,  4,  5,  94,  103,  154, 

171,  172 
Clear  cr.,  125 
Clermont,  6,  7 
Coates,  Mrs.  I.  C,  viii,  xii 
Colfax  Co.,  N.  M.,  145 
Colona's  ferry,  115 
Colorado,  xix,  xx,  34,  38,  40,  41, 
102,  114,  147,  149,  153 

cr.,  102 

Comanche  Inds.,  53,  143,  167 
Coolidge,  Kas.,  34,  149,  153 
Coon  cr. ,  22 


INDEX.  177 


Cooper,  Col.  Braxton,  154 
CortsandCa  [?],  174 
Costilla  Co.,  Col.,  131 
Cottonwood  r.,  161,  163,  164, 
165 

Coues,  Dr.  E.,  vii 
Council  Grove,  Kas.,  xxii,  161 
Covington,  Ky.,  x,  xii,  174 
Cow  cr.,  19,  21,  22,  160 
Cowley  Co.,  Kas.,  14,  16,  17 
Coyner's  Lost  Trappers,  xix 
Creek  Nation,  3 
Crooked  cr.,  49 

Crow  Inds,,  57,  63,  73,  74.  78, 

79.  85,  92 
language,  94 
Cuerno  Verde,  97 
Culebra  cr.,  136 
Cumbres  Espanolas,  40 
Cynomys  ludovicianus,  23 

D 

Dauson,  Dawson,  Lewis,  xx,  4, 

41,  42,  148 
Deerfield,  Kas.,  31 
Del  Norte,  N.  M.,  116 
peak,  119 

r.,    see   Rio  Grande  del 
Norte 

Denver  and  Rio  Grande  R.  R. , 
99,  100 

Denver,  Texas  and  Fort  Worth 

R.  R.,  149 
Dodge  City,  Kas.,  29 
Dog  cr.,  8 
Dorsey,  N.  M.,  146 
Dos  Hermanas,  45 
Douglas  Co.,  Kas.,  168 

George,  4,  10,  46,  69,  80, 

83,  123,  155 
Dover,  N.  M.,  146 

Doyle,  ,  80 

Dragoon  cr. ,  166,  167 


Duglas,  Duglass,  see  Douglas 
Durrett,  Col.  R.  T.,  v,  vii,  xiii 

E 

Edgerton,  Kas.,  169 
Edwards  Co.,  Kas.,  25,  26 
Eight  Mile  cr. ,  168 
Elizabeth  town,  N.  M.,  144 
Ellinwood,  Kas.,  22 
Emma  crs.,  162 
Emporia,  Kas.,  165 
Eng-wah-con-dah  cr. ,  2 
Eudora,  Kas.,  169 

F 

Farnham,  T.  J.,  40,  47,  69,  79 
Fawn  cr.,  165 
Ferdinand  cr.,  143,  144 
Filson  club,  v,  xiii 

Findley,  ,  5,  7,  24,  25,  26,  30, 

61,  89,  90 
Findley 's  isl.,  156 
Finney  Co.,  Kas.,  30,  31 
Fisher's  peak,  147 
Fitzpatrick,  Thomas,  80 
Five  Milecr.,  8 
flax, 126 

Fontaine  qui    Bouille,  Fon- 
taine-qui-bouit,  Fonte- 
quebouir,  79 
Ford  Co.,  Kas.,  28,  29,  156 

Kas.,  28 
Fort  Clark,  172 

Garland,   100,  101,  131 

Gibson,  1,  2,  3 

Lyon,  41,  47 

Osage,  xxi,  160,  162,  172 

point,  172 

Smith,  xiv,  xx,  1,  2,  4 
William,  47 
Wise,  47 
Fountain  cr.  or  r. ,  79 


i;8 


INDEX. 


Fowler,  Abigail,  viii 
Alexander,  x 
Benjamin,  x 
Edward,  x 

Jacob,  introd.  and  passim 
John, x 
Mesa,  150 

Robert,  4,  5,  7,  17,  43,  69, 
75,  77,  81,  82,  85,  88,  90, 
104,  108,  109,  114,  116, 
117,  118,  119,  121,  122, 
124,  127,  128,  142,  145, 
147,  165,  169 
Franklin  Co.,  Kas.,  167 

Mo.,  154 
Fremont,  J.  C,  40,  79 
Fremont's  Exp.,  40 
French, 9 

Canadians,  80 


G 

Garden  City,  Kas.,  31 
Garfield,  Kas.,  25 
Garrard,  Lewis  H.,  45,  105 
Geococcyx  californianus,  148 
Gibson  Station,  Ind.  Terr.,  3 
Glann,  Glen,  Glenn,  Col.  Hugh, 
3,  4,  6,  7,  15,  42,  46,  53, 
58,  61,  62,  67,  68,  70,  72, 
74,  76,  79.  83,  84,  85,  88, 
90,  94,  95,  104,  105,  106, 

137.  139,  157 
Granada,  Col.,  36,  149 
Grand  Forks  of  Arkansaw  r.,  79 
Peak,  45 
r.,  3,  165 
Gray  Co.,  Kas.,  29,  30 
Great  Bend,  Kas.,  xxii,  22,  23, 

160,  162,  164 
Greenhorn  r.,  96,  98 
Gregg,  Dr.  Josiah,  104,  142,  168 
grizzly  bear,  41 


Grouse  cr.,  14 
Grus  mexicana,  128 

H 

Hamilton  Co.,  Kas.,  33,  34,  154 
Hanging  Rock,  133,  134 
Harper,  F.  P.,  xiii 
Hartland,  Kas.,  31,  33 
Harvey  Co.,  Kas.,  162 
Hay  Cabin  cr.,  172 
Hayden,  Dr.  F.  V.,  149 
Henry  and  Thompson,  ix,  xiii 
Hogarth,  72 
Hollys,  Col.,  35 
Horse  cr.,  48 

Hot  Spring  cr.,  xxi,  124,  125 
Huerfano  Park,  99 

r.,  64,  68,  98,  99,  100 
Hutchinson,  Kas.,  19,  20 

I 

Ietan  chief,  59,  61,  62,  67,  68 
Inds.,  53,  54,  55,  57,  58,  59, 
63,  65,  68,  157,  158 
Illinois  r.,  1,  2 

Independence,  Mo.,  160,  161, 

167,  171,  172 
Indian  Territory,  1,  11,  171 
Ingalls,  Kas.,  30 
Inman,  Col.  Henry,  23,  32,  8o, 

143,  167 

J 

Jackson  Co.,  Mo.,  171 
Gen.  Andrew,  67 
James  and  McKnight,  139,  142, 
147 

Capt.,  156,  157,  159,  160, 
161 

Dr.  Edwin,  40 


James'  Peak,  40 
Johnson  Co.,  Kas.,  170 

K 

Kansan  waters,  169 

Kansas,  xix,  xxi,  9,  11,  14,  34, 
153,  160,  166,  168,  171 
City,  Mo.,  160,  164,  171 
Ind.  Reservation,  13,  14 
Missouri  line,  171 
r.,  xxii,  169,  170,  171 

Kaw  Agency,  11,  13 

Kearney  Co.,  Kas.,  31,  33 

Kendall,  Kas.,  33 

Kensa  r.,  see  Kansas  r. 

Kenton  Co.,  Ky.,  x,  174 

Kentucky,  5 

Kinsley,  Kas.,  25,  26 

Kiowa  chief,  64,  66,  67,  68 

Inds.,  50,  53,  54,  55.  57,  58, 
65,  66,  68 

L 

Labadie,  Sophie  A.,  32 

La  Jaracr.,  115,  116,  132,  135 

La  Junta,  Col.,  48,  49 

Lake  fork  of  Gunnison  r.,  125 

Lakin,  Kas.,  31 

Lalande,  B.,  xix 

La  Loma  del  Norte,  N.  M.,  117 

Lamar,  Col.,  36,  38 

Larned,  Kas.,  23,  24 

Las  Animas,  Col.,  41 

Co.,  Col.,  149,  150,  151 

r.,  41 

Leland,  Charles  G. ,  79 
Lewis  and  Clark,  ix,  xiii,  4,  5, 
94,  103,  154,  171,  172 
M.,4,5,  94,  103, 154,  171,  172 
Lexington,  Mo.,  172 
Linum  perenne,  126 
Little  Arkansaw  r.,  13,  16,  18, 
19,  22,  23,  162 


:x.  179 

Little  Baldy  peak,  144 

Beaver  cr.,  11 

Blue  r.,  171,  172 

Kentucky  r.,  x 

Sandy  cr.,  35 

Verdigris  r.,  8,  9,  10,  11 
Long,  Maj.  S.  H.,  xx,  xxii,  1,  2, 

3,  4,6,  7,40,  58,  69 
Long's  Exp.,  1,  2,  3,  4,  69 
Los  Montes,  N.  M.,  103,  111 
Louisville,  Ky.,  vii,viii,  xv,  174 
Lyndon,  Kas.,  166 
Lyon  Co.,  Kas.,  165,  166 

Gen.  Nathaniel,  47 
Lyons,  Kas.,  21,  160 

M 

McKnight,   ,  139,  142,  143, 

147,  151 
McPherson,  Kas.,  162 
Mamelles,  45 

Manco  Burro  Pass,  147,  148 
Mandan  villages,  5 
Manville,  Col.,  36 
Marais  des  Cygnes  cr.  or  r., 

166,  167,  168 
Marmaduke,  Col.,  168 
Matfield  Green,  Kas.,  164 
Maxwell,  Dudley,  5,  46,  88 
Maxwell's  Station,  N.  M.,  146 
Maxwill,  see  Maxwell,  Dudley 
Medicine  Stone  cr.,  2 
Mesa  de  Maya,  149,  150 
Mexican  mts.,  40 
province,  95 
Mexicans,  80,  99 
Mexico,  xix,  32,  56 
Miami  r. ,  xiii 
Mississippi  r. ,  xxii 
Missouri,  xxii,  47,  160,  171 
Kas.  and  Tex.  R.  R.,  3 
r.,  xix,  xxii,  5,  161,  162, 168, 
170,  171,  172 


iSo 


INDEX. 


Monroe,  Pres.  James,  53,  58 
Moon  cr.,  165 
Moran,  Baptiste,  5 
Moreno  cr.,  144 
valley,  144 
Mormon  women,  80 
Mt.  Carrizo,  150 
Mud  cr.,  38 
Muddy  cr.,  38 

Mulberrry  cr.,  22,  28,  29,  156 
Mulvane,  Kas.,  18 
Myer's  ferry,  115 

N 

Nabeho,  Navajo  Inds.,  123,  137 
Neosho  rapids,  165 

r.,  xxii,  1,  3,  161,  165 
Nepesta,  Col.,  51,  65 
New  Mexico,  40,  5.6,  102,  147, 
149 

Newport,  Ky.,  xi 
Newton,  Kas.,  162 
New  York,  xi,  40 
Nickerson,  Kas.,  21 
North  Butte  cr..  152,  153 

Fork  of  the  Rio  Grande,  124 
Nuttall,  T.,  xx 

O 

CEdipus,  xv 
Ohio  r.,  xiii,  174 
Ojo  Caliente,  135 
Oklahoma,  9,  11,  14,  162 
Olathe,  Kas.,  170 
Olivet,  Kas.,  166 
Olpe,  Kas.,  165 
Orphan  r.,  68 
Osage  City,  Kas.,  166 

country,  11 

Co.,  Kas.,  166,  167 

Inds.,  2,  15,  57 

Reservation,  11 


Osage  r.,  166,  169 
Osages  of  the  Oaks,  6 
Osage  village,  6,  7 

waters,  watershed,  168,  169 
Otero  Co.,  Col.,  47,  48,  49,  51 
Ottawa  cr.,  168,  169 

Kas.,  167,  168 
Otter  cr. ,  8 
Ovis  montana,  114 

P 

Paduca  Inds.,  54,  55,  58 
Pall,  see  Paul 

Pando,  ,  104 

Paneys,  see  Pawnee  Inds. 
Paul,  5,  46,  82,  91, 107,  108,  117, 

119,  120,  122,  142,  159 
Pawnee  Co.,  Kas.,  24,  25 

fork,  22,  23,  24,  159 

Ind.  fort,  35 

Inds.,  18,  23,  32,  59,  123, 

157,  158,  159 
language,  55 

r.,  160,  161,  see  Pawnee 

fork 
Rock,  23 
Peno,  Baptiste,  4,  5,  10,  17,  69, 

90,  94,  164,  172 
Picket-wire  r. ,  41 
Piedra  Pintada  cr.,  117 
Pierceville,  Kas.,  30 
Pike's  1st  fork  of  Ark.  r.,  41, 

149 

2nd  fork  of  Ark.  r.,  68 
fork  of  the   Rio  Grande, 

114,  126,  129,  132,  135 
Grand  Forks  of  the  Arkan- 

saw,  79 
Peak,  40,  45,  56 
stockade,  115,  135 
Pike,  Z.  M.,  ix,  xiii,  xix,  xx,  xxi, 

xxii,  2,  3,  6,  19,  22,  24,  25, 

28,  29,  30,  34,  35,  36,  38. 


INDEX. 


181 


40,  41,  47,  48,  49,  50,  68, 
69,  79,  80,  96,  100,  101, 
104,  115,  135.  143. 154,  156, 
161,  165,  167,  168,  169,  170, 
171 

Pintada  peak,  117 
Pitman's  cr.,  x 
Plains,  xxii 
Platte  r.,  56,  63,  74 
Ponil  cr. ,  145 
Potatoe  Butte,  150 
Poteau  r.,  1 

Potter,  ,  139 

prairie  squirrel,  23 
Prowers,  Col.,  38 

Co.,  Col.,  35,  36,  152,  153 
Pryer,  Pryor,  Nathaniel,  4,  5, 

61,  155,  156 
Pueblo,  Col.,  xx,  xxi,  47,  79,  80, 
96,  99 

Co.,  Col.,  51 

cr.,  105 

de  Taos,  N.  M.,  56,  104 

Inds.,  104 
Purgatory  r.,  xx,  34,  41,  47,  147, 

148,  149,  150 
Pursley,  James,  xix,  143 

Q 

Quenemo,  Kas.,  167 
R 

Raccoon  cr.,  166 

ratafia,  103 

Raton  Mesa,  147,  148 

pass,  147 

plateau,  148 

route,  xxi 
Rayado  cr. ,  145 
Raymond,  Kas.,  21,  160 
Reading,  Kas.,  166 
Red  r.,  xxii 


Rock,  Kas.,  23 
Reno  Co.,  Kas.,  19,  20,  21 
Rice  Co.,  Kas.,  21,  160 
Rio  Almagre,  79 

Conejos,  115,  116,  129,  132, 
135 

Costilla,  101,  102 

Culebra,  101,  136 

de  las  Animas  Perdidas,  41 

Huerfano,  69,  99 

Grande  Co.,  Col.,  117 

Grande  del  Norte,  xx,  xxi, 
100,  101,  102, 105,  108,  112, 
114, 115, 116, 117,  121,  125, 
129,  136,  142 

Purgatorio,  41 

San  Carlos,  96 

Walfano,  69 
Riviere  Purgatoire,  41 
Robertson's  run,  x 
Robinson,  Col.,  47 
Rock  cr.,  165 
Rocky  Ford,  Col.,  49 

mts.,  xiii,  xxii,  1 
Roy,  Baptiste,  4,  5,  55,  58,  71, 

104,  106,  158,  159,  172 
Rule  cr.,  39 

S 

St.  Antoni,  see  San  Antonio 

Charles  r. ,  69,  96 

Flanders,  see  San  Fernan- 
dez de  Taos 

Louis,  Mo.,  5,  143,  173 

Mary's,  Col.,  99 

Vrain,  Col.  Ceran,  23,  47 
Salt  cr.,  166,  167 

fork  of  Arkansaw  r. ,  1 2 
San  Antonio,  Tex.,  56 

Cristobal  lake,  125 

Cristobal,  N.  M.,  103.  111 
Sand  cr.,  162 
Sanders,  Esther,  xi 


INDEX. 


Sanders,  see  Saunders 

sandhill  crane,  128 

San  Fernandez  de  Taos,  103, 

104,  137 
Francisco  cr.,  117 
Sangre  de  Cristo  cr.,  100,  101, 
130 

de  Cristo  Pass,  xxi,  98,  100, 
de  Cristo  range,  99 
San  Juan  City,  Col.,  125 
Juan  mts.,  xxi,  116,  117 
Luis  hills,  101,  136 
Luis  valley,  100,  101,  102, 
116,  129 

Santa  Fe,  N.  M.,  xix,  xxi,  74, 
79,  104,  no,  137,  139,  142, 
143,  167,  168 

Fe  route  or  trail,  xxii,  23, 
143,  161,  162,  167 

Fe  trade,  xxii,  168 

Maria  lake,  125 

Saunders,  ,  2 

Scott,  Frances,  viii 
Sebastian  Co.,  Ark.,  1 
Sedgwick  Co.,  Kas.,  18,  19 
Sequoiah,  xiv 
Shahaka,  5 
Sheep  mts. ,  99 
Shoshone  language,  94 
Shotoes,  see  Chouteau's  isl. 
Sibley,  Dr.,  7 

Mo.,  172 

Mr.,  172,  173 
Simpson,  ,  5,  61,  86,  90,  138 

George,  80 
Six  Bull  or  Six  Bulls  r.,  3,  6,  165 

Slover,  ,  5,  7,  61,  88,  90,  97, 

116,  123,  126 
Smith,  Gen.,  1 
Snake  Hill,  136 

Inds.,  55 

r.,  136 

South  Fork  of  Rio  Grande,  121 
Spaniards,  64,  69,  71,  72,  73,  76, 


77,  84,  85,  90,  94,  105,  114, 
123,  125,  126,    135,  137, 
157,  158,  160 
Spanish  Inds.,  56 

Peaks,  40,  45 

province,  95 

road,  91,  129 

settlement,  75,  99,  154 
Spencer,  S.,  xix 
Springer,  N.  M.,  145 
Springfield,  Col.,  151,  152 
Sterling,  Kas.,  21 
Suicide  cr.,  n 
Sumner  Co.,  Kas.,  17,  18 
Sycamore  Springs,  Kas.,  163 
Symmes,  A.,  viii,  xiii 

Capt.  J.  C,  xii 

Hon.  J.  C,  xiii 
Syracuse,  Kas.,  34,  154 

T 

tabbe  bone,  tabeo,  94 
taffe,  see  ratafia 
Tahlequah,  Ind.  Terr.,  2 
Tahlequah,  Talequah  r.,  2 
Taos  cr.,  105,  109,  no,  rn,  112^ 
114 

lightning,  103 
mts.,  144 

N.  M.,  xxi,  45,  96,  99,  104, 
109,  123,  136,  137,  142, 155, 
168 

Pass,  142,  143,  144 
Trail,  xxi,  45,  79,  99,  100 

Taylor,  ,  5,  61,  91,  108,  117, 

118,  119,  120,  i2i,  122,  127, 
130,  139,  165,  169 

Tenaja  cr.,  146 

Tetons,  45 

Thurman  cr.,  164 
Kas.,  164 

Timpas  cr.,  49 

Touse,  Tows,  see  Taos 


INDEX.  183 


Trinchera  ci\,  100,  101,  130,  131 
Trinidad,  Col.,  147 
Turkey  cr.,  162,  171 
Twin  mts.,  45 

Two  Butte  cr.,  xxi,  34,  35,  151, 
152,  153 
Buttes,  149,  151,  152,  153 
Sisters,  45 

U 

Una  de  Gato  cr. ,  147 

United  States,  17,  32,  53,  72,  95, 

142,  143 
U.  S.  Army,  173 
U.  S.  Geological   Survey,  38, 

149 

Ursus  horribilis,  41 
Ute  Indians,  45,  122,  137, 
peak,  102,  114 

V 

Vanbeber,  Van  Biber,  Jesse,  5, 
69,  82,  120,  123,  131,  132, 
137 

Van  Buren,  Ark.,  1 
Verdigris  r.,  xxii,  3,  4,  6,  7,  9, 
161,  164,  165 
trail,  xx 
Vermejo  cr.,  146 
Vermilion  r.,  3 
Veta  mts. ,  99 
Veta  pass,  100 
Vie,  Esther  de,  xi 
Virdegree  r. ,  see  Verdigris  r. 
Virginia,  47 


W 

Wagon  Wheel  Gap,  121,  124 
Wahtoyah,  45,  105 
Wakarusacr.,  169 
Walnut  cr.,  16,  17,  162,  163 

cr.,  another,  22,  23, 160,  161 
Walters,  Richard,  5,  84,  85,  86, 

100,  108,  126 
Ward,  Eli,  5,  12,  46,  78,  88,  91, 

123,  131,  147,  151,  167,  170 
Warm  Spring  branch  of  Rio 

Conejos,  135 
Wasetihoge  r. ,  3 
Washington,  D.  C,  vii,  xxiv, 

157 

Wassuja  r.,  3 
Watervale,  Col.,  149 
Wet  mts.,  97,  99 
Wharf  cr.,  69 
Whight  r. ,  see  White  r. , 
white  bear,  41 
White  Bear  cr.,  148 
White  r.,  16,  162 
Whitewater  r. ,  xxii,  16,  162 
Wichita,  Kas.,  13,  18 
Wild  Horse  cr.,  35 
Wilkinson,  J.  B.,  xx 
Williams,  E.,  xix 
Willow  cr.,  36,  116,  135 
Willow  Spring,  Col.,  151 

Springs  camp,  168 
Wilson's  cr.,  47 
Winfield,  Kas.,  16 
Wise,  Gov.,  47 
Wolf  cr.,  119 
Workman,  J.,  xiv 


DR.  COUES'  WORKS  ON  WESTERN  EXPLORATION. 


Expeditions  of  Zebulon  Montgomery  Pike. 

To  the  Headwaters  of  the  Mississippi  River,  the  Interior  Parts  of  Louisiana, 
Mexico  and  Texas,  in  the  years  of  1805-6-7.  Reprinted  in  full  from  the  original 
Philadelphia  edition  of  18 10.  With  copious  explanatory,  geographical  and  scien- 
tific notes  to  the  text,  a  new  Memoir  of  Pike  and  an  Index  to  the  whole. 
By  Prof.  Elliott  Coues,  Edition  limited,  3  vols.,  8vo. 

1,000  on  fine  book  paper  $10.00  net  per  set. 

150  on  hand-made  paper  $20.00  net  per  set. 


This  edition  of  Pike's  explorations  is  only 
second  in  value  to  the  annotated  journals  of  Lewis 
&  Clark,  by  the  same  editor.  The  rearrangement 
by  Dr.  Coues  of  the  appendices  and  other  extran- 
eous matter  adds  very  greatly  to  its  value,  since  in 
the  original  edition  even  the  experienced  reader 
has  found  it  difficult  to  collate  complete  informa- 
tion on  many  important  topics.  The  volumes  are 
an  important  contribution  to  geographical  and 
historical  literature.—  The  Nation  (3  columns). 

On  the  whole,  the  new  Pike  must  prove  monu- 
mental. It  will  forever  link  its  author  with  Pike's 
fame.  Its  map  of  Mississippi  sources,  and  the 
arduous  voyage  (of  the  editor)  into  the  farthest 
fountains,  will  not  let  us  wonder  that  the  Minne- 
sota Park  Commissioner  styled  a  lakelet  feeding 
Itasca,  Elliot  Coues,  and  inscribed  that  name 
upon  a  boulder  on  that  utmost  shore.— American 
Historical  Jieview  {2%,  pages) . 


The  great  merit  in  Dr.  Coues'  notes  is  that  they 
preserve  the  history  of  the  localities  and  give 
credit  to  all  the  local  historians  and  archaeologists . 
Dr.  Coues  seems  to  have  read  all  of  the  local  histo- 
ries and  records,  whether  contained  in  books, 
pamphlets  or  even  newspapers,  and  has  given  the 
references  with  great  painstaking.  In  fact,  the 
notes  are  equivalent  to  a  bibliography. — American 
Antiqtiarian  and  Oriental  Journal. 

Dr.  Coues'  new  edition  of  "  Pike's  Expeditions 
is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  presswork  most  credita- 
ble to  the  taste  and  liberality  of  the  publisher. 
The  editor  has  done  the  material  portion  of  his 
work  as  successfully  as  has  the  publisher,  the  result 
is  a  well-digested  and  most  readable  chronicle,  in- 
stead of  ill-assorted  bundles  of  information  as  in  the 
original  edition) .  No  explorer  has  ever  been  more 
fully  aided  to  express  himself  through  the  ampler 
knowledges  of  the  generations  that  come  after  him 
than  in  this  case. —  The  Dial  (2%  pages) . 


New  Light  on  the  Early  History  of  the  Greater  Northwest. 

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with  Explorations  and  Life  with  the  Fur  Traders  on  the  Red,  Saskatchewan, 
and  Columbia  Rivers,  1 799-1814,  now  first  published,  with  which  are  collated 
the  original  unpublished  manuscripts  of  David  Thompson,  Explorer  and  Geo- 
grapher of  the  Northwest  Company.  The  whole  carefully  edited  with  copious 
notes  by  Dr.  Elliot  Coues,  with  Maps,  Index,  etc.    Limited  edition,  3  vols., 

$10.00  net  per  set. 
$20.00  net  per  set. 


roy.  8vo,  1,000  copies,  fine  book  paper 
100  on  hand-made  paper 

Dr.  Coues  says  of  this  work :  "  No  work  ap- 
proaching these  journals  in  the  scope,  extent, 
variety  and  interest  of  its  contents  has  appeared 
since  the  publication  in  1801  of  Sir  Alexander 
Mackenzie's  memorable  voyages,  and  the  present 
work  will  undoubtedly  take  rank  with  that  classic 
as  a  veritable  mine  of  accurate  information." 
Send  for  complete  prospectus. 

"  The  exceeding  value  of  the  work  lies  in  the  fact 
that  it  is  new.  Not  for  a  long  time  has  a  book  of 
such  great  historical  interest  been  published  in 
this  country  *  *  *  it  should  become  a  cherished 
book  in  the  eyes  of  all  those  who  take  more  than  a 
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country."—  New  York  Herald. 

"  The  claim  of  the  publisher  that  few  such  im- 


portant books  as  this  have  been  issued  recently,  is 
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in  everyway." — Cincinnati  Commercial-Tribune. 

"  He  (Dr.  Coues)  beheld  in  Henry  that  which  he 
most  desired  to  complete  his  magnificent  endeavor 
to  illuminate  the  world  of  the  West  duting  the 
early  years  of  the  nineteenth  century."—  The  Nation . 

"Dr.  Coues  study  and  research  as  shown  in 
these  volumes  is  simply  marvelous."— New  York 
Tribune. 

"  It  will  be  seen  also  that  Henry  and  Thompson 
to  a  degree  overlap  Lewis  and  Clark."—  The  Dial. 

"  The  study  of  the.  Indians  was  his  (Henry's)  life 
work.  Here  he  is  keenest  and  most  valuable."— 
Baltimore  Sun. 


